Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

[Lydia]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

Thanks for updating, Nick! I was actually thinking about this thread tonight while gardening and felt bad because I thought his question had never been answered. Glad to see that wasn't the case! Good to know about Black Wax - I may add it to my arsenal at some point just for cases like this.

[Nick Winn]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

Just wanted to provide an update to the thread here for others trying to learn, I have spoken with the OP over the phone, sometimes a little easier to walk through all potential variables. We discussed amount of product being used, amount of product residue left on paint at end of buffing cycle when wiping off, condition of foams pads, amount of section passes, pressure, speed, & the product itself. I have arranged in conjunction with Meguiar's Solutions Hub to send out a couple of different products to try, we are actually sending M205 Ultra Finishing Polish & Black Wax. Although M205 Ultra Finishing Polish is a little more aggressive than Ultimate Polish Pre-Waxing Glaze (which OP has already tried), sometimes just trying a different cleaner/polish/finishing/polish altogether, combined with some technique adjustments, can remedied the haze the user is experiencing. Black Wax is one of Meguiar's cleaner waxes specifically for dark colors, and is often in a lot of our "tool boxes" in these haze prone dark colored paint situations, more so as an easy way out, & many times it provides just the right amount of refinement to finish the paint haze free, while leaving a high gloss.

M.N Mach 1, I look forward to following up with you when the products arrive and you attempt what we discussed. Feel free to post your results and we can go from there.

- Nick

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

Dont know i just got the car last august

[Lydia]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

How long ago was the hood painted?

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

Thanks guz for the suggestion. I went ahead and tried the water. Polish ratio. Still not seeing a change even went to all water.but what i did notice is that all of the hazing seems to be running in the direction of my wiping. Almost like i can control what direction i want it to haze.now that being said i have 8 microfiber towels. All of which are the meguiars ultra shine. You wonder if the temperature has some sort of factor. Maybe you cant rule out the towels but how could 8 of them be compromised

[The Guz]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

How much product are you putting on the pad? Try cutting back on the amount of UP you are using on the pad. If it is still doing it then consider watching the next two videos.

You could probably do the same thing with UP as it is derived from M205.

See around the 5 min mark

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0vCMo7EyFY

You could also try the water polishing method with UP.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XR7FjbCDWlU

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

Did some reading on people with soft paint and how almost evrrything hazes the paint would there be a product softer than UP i could use?

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

Ive worked the spots for about two minutes and iy now seems to make that whole area evenly hazed. Not even the slightest bit better. Even tried with the black pad.. When ypu wipe stuff off do you notice your microfiber towels leaving quite a bit of fibers on the car. These are the meguiars one doing that.

[Lydia]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

You are somewhat below the normal recommended usage temperature for Meguiar's products but I don't think that would cause the problem. I can't guarantee it though. I usually have the opposite problem so I have no idea how things act in 40 degree weather.

It sounds to me like you may be moving a bit quickly so it might help to work the spot longer. Maybe aim for around 2 minutes work time for one section and see what that does.

About 3-4 pea-sized drops should be sufficient for each application. I would also recommend cleaning the pad with a terry towel between each application. This will remove any spent product as well as any paint that has been polished up and will help your pad to work better in general.

As far as how you're cleaning your pads, water should be OK as long as the pad is coming out clean. I usually wash mine in the washing machine but it's obviously not worth the trouble for just a few. I used to wash mine in the sink with a little drop of dish detergent. I would work it into the pad, then rinse very well until the water came out clean. The soap is less important with a compound than it would be with a wax though.

Sometimes UC does finish out well but since it appears you're getting hazing or marring I think UP will be the best product to use. I would give it a try working it a little longer and a little more slowly. I know I told you to go a little faster before - sorry! I should have determined how quickly you were moving before I recommended that.

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

I have those meguiars ultra shine microfiber towels about 6 of them. I try my hardest so they dont touch much. Now pretty much what i got a corded drill that runs 1500 rpms. And what i did today was use quik detailor to make sure the spot is clean. Then did like you said small spot. I would go left to right with 50% overlapping and i would do abput 4 to 5 complete passes on the spot. Then immediately wipe. I even tried with the black pad. And still have no results i would say that it takes me just a couple seconds for each row im doing before i change direction with not much pressure . now its about 40 degrees in my garage whether or not this affects it idk. I have even gone back to the UC and noticed it seemed a bit worse ao i stopped. Ivr even tried side to side then go up and down. Kind of a bummer to see 80% of the car look so dang good then get to the end and something come up. I dont do much by hand unless its the #7. I have tho also tried the UP by hand and still see no results. Can you apply to much UP on the pad? Even though it all get wiped off. Could it be possible i need to work the spot longer?

[Lydia]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

This video is a tad long but it shows closer to the work time that I would use with UC. I wouldn't work UP quite as long but it might give a better idea of what I'm talking about in terms of how long to work a product: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ozwtlrrj2E . I kind of like the fact he doesn't say anything as the results speak for themselves.

He did at some point spray something on the compound. It looks like the UC was beginning to dry slightly so he sprayed something to allow him to buff a little longer. This tends to happen when it's hot outside so I don't think that's a factor for you. But you do want to make sure you're not dry buffing. This would be less of a concern with the UP as the additional polishing oils allow it to be worked longer.

[Lydia]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

I apologize for not responding sooner! I've had this in the back of my mind but had other things occupying the front of it and the rest of me. Does that mean I'm of two minds? I hope not.

Looking at your picture it does appear that the marring is in straight lines. If that is the case, it sounds like you nailed it. Whether or not the M205 is fully removing the hazing, we don't know. But it does appear that you may be re-instilling marring when wiping off. What kind of microfibers do you have? Particularly with soft paint (which you appear to have) it's very important to have quality microfibers. You also want to make sure there aren't particles or debris stuck in the microfibers. Pro tip: detailing and woodworking are not complimentary hobbies, at least in the same garage without a good cleanup in between. I learned this the hard way. Sawdust does not come out of microfibers, at least not easily at all. My point is, you want to make sure your microfibers are very clean. Even being clean, if they are low quality microfibers you're more likely to risk instilling marring. I would highly recommend inspecting your microfiber towels closely to make sure there isn't anything embedded in them. What brand of microfibers are you using?

I'm not sure if you already know this, but on a side note: when you wash your microfibers, be sure to dry them on medium or low heat, and do not use any dryer sheets. Dryer sheets leave a residue on the microfibers. Also, it's not a bad idea to run an extra rinse cycle, especially if you are using a powder detergent. When I wash my microfibers and buffing pads, I add some degreaser (usually Simple Green because it's cheap and relatively non-toxic) and some white vinegar in addition to liquid detergent, then soak them for a while. Then I finish the wash cycle, then do a second rinse, before putting them in the dryer. If you have a washing machine that gives you an option where it can add something during the rinse it's a good idea to put the vinegar into there. My washer isn't that fancy (it might be as old as me. No really, it might be. But it still works well).

Besides microfibers, let's double-check a few things technique-wise. I apologize in advance if you already know all these things, I just want to make sure you're all set with technique.

Are you working in a small section, say 16" x 16"? Once you work that one section, you want to remove the remaining product from that one section immediately, before moving on to the next section. Do not allow UP to dry.

How long are you working each section? While I don't have a specific time 100%, I would expect it to take 1-2 minutes per section. Put it this way: it takes me an average of 3 hours to apply a cleaner wax to a standard size car, when I'm making good use of the polishing ability of the cleaner wax. I would expect I'm using the cleaner wax about like you need to use the UP in this case. This is using a DA with a 5" pad, so it would take longer with the smaller pads in the DAPS system. Once I looked again at the pictures of the oxidation on the top of the vehicle it made me wonder whether perhaps you would be benefited by a longer buffing cycle. In the case of the oxidation, while it sounds like the #7 helped it, to some extent it just replenished the oils in the paint. The oxidation is probably to some extent present still and may show up down the line. It's up to you whether or not to compound it more. If you're happy with it, that's great.

When you are using the UP by hand be sure to apply even pressure to the back of the foam applicator. You don't want to bear down with your fingertips. Try to apply firm, even pressure. Keep in mind what you're doing is removing a very very small amount of the clear coat to get the hazing out, so it will take some effort. Again, you need to work it in a small area (more like 12" by 12" when working by hand), apply some pressure, and take a little bit of time with it. When you're getting toward the end of your hand-buffing lighten up the pressure for the last few passes.

Here are a few threads that may be helpful if you haven't already seen them: http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...u4Jt8KJkQBZ.97

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?43209-Meguiar-s-Quik-Tips-Video-Series-Removing-Swirls#S9H0HipiOva7toPK.97

The one thing that I notice in both of these is that they do not appear to show the full time that the product is being buffed (maybe for time's sake?). I also tend to move more slowly over the paint than Mike Pennington does. But the arm speed is dependent on the amount of defects that need to be removed. And Mike Pennington has been working for Meguiar's longer than I've been alive. Just kidding about that part. But he's been there for a long time. Just telling you what my method is though.

Another thread, this one about product removal: http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...DzhCwok5yoQ.97

Was your hood repainted recently?

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

So attempting more things to fix the problem im not getting any results one thing ive noticed when wipe the area off it alnost looks as if my micro fiber shine towel is creating streaks to. And these towels have been through tge wash

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

I just rinse them with water until it's clear water being squeezed out. There's minimal dampness if any

[The Guz]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

Are you using anything else to clean them out with or just water? Are the pads still damp when using them?