UPW and PP365- which on top

[joaks]

So I've been out of the loop for quite some time and I apologize if this has been discussed.

If I want to use UPW and PP365, which would should be the top layer? I know to allow cure time for either.

My preference would be sometime like this:

Wash
Clay
Glaze
pp365
UPW


any thoughts?

[The Guz]

Re: UPW and PP365- which on top

What you listed is fine.

Although I would consider leaving PP365 by itself and maintain with ultimate quik wax instead of topping ultimate wax. Unless you don't mind seeing the performance of the topper (UW) instead of the performance of PP365.

You will get maximum performance letting PP365 curing for 7 days before washing and/or topping it.

[DasBurninator]

Re: UPW and PP365- which on top

I wouldn't use a glaze under PP365 either.

[joaks]

Re: UPW and PP365- which on top

I wouldn't use a glaze under PP365 either.

Why no glaze? My understanding was these were compatible (?).

[The Guz]

Re: UPW and PP365- which on top

A glaze could possibly interfere with the performance of the PP365. So you may get less longevity and you may not.

What glaze are you planning to use? M7?

Are you just looking to use a glaze to hide defects and imperfections?

[joaks]

Re: UPW and PP365- which on top

I would use M7 if I have some left. I might pick up some ultimate polish if needed.

The reason for using it is for the supposed "nourishing the paint" property of glaze. I know this is a pretty suspect hypothesis but I'm willing to take the risk :-).

My car is silver and I don't get much (if any) improvement in appearance from using glaze.

[The Guz]

Re: UPW and PP365- which on top

M7 is more beneficial for single stage paints compared to modern day clear coats. It can hide defects such as light swirls but it's effects won't last long.

Seeing as your car is silver and you stated you don't see a difference tells us to just go ahead and seal the paint after claying. A fine abrasive polish like ultimate polish will correct more and impart gloss compared to M7.

[DasBurninator]

Re: UPW and PP365- which on top

...A fine abrasive polish like ultimate polish will correct more and impart gloss compared to M7.

If you are going to go through the steps of using a glaze and the work involved, I would just use Ultimate Polish instead. Same effort, better results, still has oils in it to feed the paint, doesn't interfere with bonding of PP365.

I feel like you are wasting time with the M07 in this case.

[amblin83]

Re: UPW and PP365- which on top

Hmmm... oil... I thought most polish contained oil of some sort as lubricant , and it's common practice to remove such oils using a dedicated degreasing spray or alcohol wipe to evaluate the actual polish result and prep the paint for sealing or wax. Otherwise the oil will act as a temporary filler and hide minor defects ,very counterproductive.

[amblin83]

Re: UPW and PP365- which on top

And btw, i've used PP365 before,while it's not as fancy as some of the more expensive products that came in the form of an aerosol spray , but it gets the job done nicely. The touch is not as smooth as premium wax but the shine and water beading is very close.

I also tried to top it with a layer of premium wax which greatly improved the sleekness, but the shine was about the same and it lost the supposedly antistatic benefit of a polymer sealant. So in my opinion not worth the extra effort.

[DasBurninator]

Re: UPW and PP365- which on top

Hmmm... oil... I thought most polish contained oil of some sort as lubricant , and it's common practice to remove such oils using a dedicated degreasing spray or alcohol wipe to evaluate the actual polish result and prep the paint for sealing or wax. Otherwise the oil will act as a temporary filler and hide minor defects ,very counterproductive.

Polishing oils can hide very small defects, they do not really fill though like a glaze, or even some LSPs. I personally do an inspection wipe down only on cars that I am trying to get to perfect. On something that I am paid for a 1 step or 2 step polishing job, I do just that and then move on to the LSP.

I'm not sure how that is counter productive though. As the polish is still used to abrade away at the clear coat (or paint) and will still do more for appearances than using M07. Especially with consideration to bonding of PP365.

And btw, i've used PP365 before,while it's not as fancy as some of the more expensive products that came in the form of an aerosol spray , but it gets the job done nicely. The touch is not as smooth as premium wax but the shine and water beading is very close.

I also tried to top it with a layer of premium wax which greatly improved the sleekness, but the shine was about the same and it lost the supposedly antistatic benefit of a polymer sealant. So in my opinion not worth the extra effort.

PP365 definitely has a different texture to it and a different working methodology as well compared to other LSP. But it does exactly what it says it will do.

[amblin83]

Re: UPW and PP365- which on top

Ah, I see your point. But IMO the oil in a polish can only act as temporary filler for a very short period before it's dried out. Nothing is more frustrating to find out that the defect is still there and just masked by oils after i've cleaned the pads and packed things away. that's why I say it's counterproductive.

Most sealants contain actual fillers or something similar that can hide minor defects for the duration of its presence, so in my opinion a polish is just that, to eliminate all defects within one's ability and should be cleaned away leaving no residual so one can evaluate the real result and then apply sealant do the real job.

[DasBurninator]

Re: UPW and PP36554 which on top

Ah, I see your point. But IMO the oil in a polish can only act as temporary filler for a very short period before it's dried out. Nothing is more frustrating to find out that the defect is still there and just masked by oils after i've cleaned the pads and packed things away. that's why I say it's counterproductive.

Most sealants contain actual fillers or something similar that can hide minor defects for the duration of its presence, so in my opinion a polish is just that, to eliminate all defects within one's ability and should be cleaned away leaving no residual so one can evaluate the real result and then apply sealant do the real job.

Normally I would be in agreement with this mentality. And you are absolutely correct in what you are stating.

With this situation of OP and the steps he mentioned, I would just grab the UP instead of M07. This gives him proper bonding of PP365, but with mild correction from UP without really modifying his steps. Only a substitution of product.

[amblin83]

Re: UPW and PP365- which on top

Wait a minute...'glaze' is NOT just the name of a polish but a different stuff?! I thought it's similar to the M205 UFP

Just saw a review in my dad's very old car magazine, in the article some blokes talked about using a 'glaze' AFTER polishing an old jag to 'nourish' the enamel paint, they say 'the special oil rich content will fill in any small defects and recondition the enamel paintwork '.

So is this a special product for show cars and beloved classics.. Is it practical and durable enough for DD?

[DasBurninator]

Re: UPW and PP365- which on top

Wait a minute...'glaze' is NOT just the name of a polish but a different stuff?! I thought it's similar to the M205 UFP

Just saw a review in my dad's very old car magazine, in the article some blokes talked about using a 'glaze' AFTER polishing an old jag to 'nourish' the enamel paint, they say 'the special oil rich content will fill in any small defects and recondition the enamel paintwork '.

So is this a special product for show cars and beloved classics.. Is it practical and durable enough for DD?

Glaze in this case is referring to M07. It is not a polish and has what is called feeder oils. On a base coat/clear coat paint it doesn't do much for you. On old single stage paints, it does provide some rejuvenation to the paint VIA those feeder oils. It would get applied PRIOR to polishing to help nourish the paint.

Here is some reading for you on that subject:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html

I've never heard of a glaze containing polishing abrasives. Only fillers and or feeding oils. Really depends on the product.

I would not consider it durable nor practical for anything with a clear coated paint, especially not a DD. If you are looking for a durable glaze type product M305 fits that bill. I am currently using it since my car was just painted, but afterwards I will go back to a normal LSP, likely a ceramic coating.