Removing/buffing off new wax with a microfiber bonnet?

[MicrofiberMan]

So now that i got a meguiars 6 inch cutting pad i can use my bonnets, My question is how do you know the microfiber bonnet on a da isn't just taking off the new coat of wax? I read mike phillips article, he says use the da on high with firm pressure so the microfiber slices into the wax and breaks it up? that doesnt sound right.


heres the part,

Speed Setting
Use the high speed setting to remove dried wax. I tend to use the 6.0 Speed Setting because you really want all the power the tool has to offer when trying to convince dried wax to give up it's grip on the paint and transfer onto the bonnet.


Downward Pressure
You want to use firm downward pressure when removing the wax. The reason for this is you want the nap of the microfiber slicing into the coating of wax and then breaking it up and this cannot be accomplished with light pressure.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/29369-how-use-microfiber-bonnet-remove-dried-wax-machine.html

[MicrofiberMan]

Re: Removing/buffing off new wax with a microfiber bonnet?

Seems like it just defeats the purpose of putting new wax on to me? Why would you want the microfiber "cutting into the wax convincing the dried wax to release its grip on the paint" that has to be a mistake?

[Top Gear]

Re: Removing/buffing off new wax with a microfiber bonnet?

Yes, I prefer doing it gently by hand, but it can be a lot of work. Since I switched to Detailer D301, it doesn't need to dry, so it's literally one wipe to remove the minor excess - really to buff it rather than remove it.

[MicrofiberMan]

Re: Removing/buffing off new wax with a microfiber bonnet?

Ya it seems like a bonnet the way the article says is a contradiction, i've been reading back on some old threads and i found 1 by mike stoops saying the same thing as me, that a microfiber bonnet can pull the wax you want right off, it was actually a response not an article, ill try to link it


edit post 6

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?57789-Using-DA-to-remove-polish-wax

"We used to sell microfiber bonnets for wax removal, but we discontinued them due in part to poor sales, and in part because they just aren't needed. From personal experience, they're seem to create more work than they save. It's very easy to get overly aggressive when removing wax this way, and you end up with the very real potential of removing literally everything, including the small layer of wax you intended to leave in the first place! Plus, a bonnet wrapped over a foam pad doesn't seem to reach every tight spot or contour and you end up having to go back over the car again just to get all those spots."

[MicrofiberMan]

Re: Removing/buffing off new wax with a microfiber bonnet?

Yes, I prefer doing it gently by hand, but it can be a lot of work. Since I switched to Detailer D301, it doesn't need to dry, so it's literally one wipe to remove the minor excess - really to buff it rather than remove it.

Wow reading your sig I didn't even know about m101, I thought I had my paint polished down as good as I could possible get it using ultimate compound but now I may have to rethink that, U think its worth using on paint thats already pretty much polished to perfection or should I wait a year or so?

[Top Gear]

Re: Removing/buffing off new wax with a microfiber bonnet?

Yes, if your paint is hard enough. M101 is, by all accounts, the most aggressive liquid Meguiar's makes by far. You can feel the grit in it, sorta like "Soft Scrub". If the paint is soft, it might be too much, especially on MF pads. I just used it on my (painted) wheels by hand recently and they look amazing. I now use it as THE compound on my hard paint, then follow with D300 as a pre-polish and to return to the DAMF look (bluish finish). For me, though, M101/MF and wet-sanding are the only way to get any real results on hard paint. In fact, it can sometimes be hard to remove improperly hazed sanding marks even with M101/MF, so I'm talking about some crazy hard paint. The only downside is the high cost of M101.

[Selectchoice]

Re: Removing/buffing off new wax with a microfiber bonnet?

In fact, it can sometimes be hard to remove improperly hazed sanding marks even with M101/MF.....

What do you mean when you say "improperly hazed sanding marks"?

[Top Gear]

Re: Removing/buffing off new wax with a microfiber bonnet?

Oh, I mean small areas where I didn't "hash" the marks properly, such that instead of haze, there are visible lines, mostly in one direction. Even at 3000 grit wet, these are harder to get out. The fix is usually to gently re-haze so that I have a proper "cloud" of haze, not lines. Compounding can get them, sometimes, which is what I meant in using M101 for that - something like UC or D300 will never get at them on my hard paint. I've done these variations as tests on defects, mainly.

[Selectchoice]

Re: Removing/buffing off new wax with a microfiber bonnet?

Oh, I mean small areas where I didn't "hash" the marks properly, such that instead of haze, there are visible lines, mostly in one direction. Even at 3000 grit wet, these are harder to get out. The fix is usually to gently re-haze so that I have a proper "cloud" of haze, not lines. Compounding can get them, sometimes, which is what I meant in using M101 for that - something like UC or D300 will never get at them on my hard paint. I've done these variations as tests on defects, mainly.

Perhaps pick up a practice panel to play with your sanding technique and get your process dialled in so this isn't occurring.

[Top Gear]

Re: Removing/buffing off new wax with a microfiber bonnet?

That's not a bad idea. Fortunately, I've only done this on purpose a couple of times for the same reason. My point above was that even M101 on MF has its limits on hard paint.

[billddrummer]

Re: Removing/buffing off new wax with a microfiber bonnet?

That's not a bad idea. Fortunately, I've only done this on purpose a couple of times for the same reason. My point above was that even M101 on MF has its limits on hard paint.

Top Gear, I believe that all Hyundai vehicles have hard paint. My Accent had hard paint which was very forgiving when I first began doing my correction work, but also just sat there and laughed at me when I thought I was making progress on the finish.

My Azera's paint is just as hard, and I will be doing another correction on 9/1 to further reduce the DIRS (Dealer Installed Random Swirls) I acquired along with the vehicle last March. (The wait is because of the repainting required after my accident--body shop said to wait 30 days before doing any correction/wax work.)

Current plan is to just wash weekly, then do wash/clay/ UC/UP/UPW over the Labor Day weekend. Using the standard clay kit, white clay. HF DA polisher, heavy pressure, highest speed, Griot's foam pads (red) for UC application. UP with yellow Griot's pad, UPW by hand, on and off.