Originally posted by gkbailey78
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Originally posted by Nick Winn
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310 degrees F.
In 2 minutes.
Now, it takes more than 2 minutes to buff out an entire car. And 310F is almost hot enough to cook a chicken, given enough time in the oven. It's also hot enough, given enough time buffing, to literally melt the hook and loop material and fuse the pad to the plate. Or cause the adhesive between the loop material and foam to fail and delam the disc. Other bad things happen to the equipment as well, even the paint doesn't necessarily get all that hot.
So, let's not go nuts on the pressure. instead, ease off the pressure a bit to gain pad rotational speed. Keep the arm movements nice and slow and let the pad/disc move the abrasives in the compound around more. Let them tumble and do their job. Keep the work area small, the arm speed slow, the pressure moderate at best for lots of spin, and keep the tool speed in the 4800~5000 opm range that Nick stated above.
Let's talk about the big variable in this whole thing though - the paint. VWs are known for having pretty hard paint. Not all of them have such hard paint, of course, but this brand is notorious for having hard paint that is slow to correct. If your son's Golf is indeed one of them, then taking your time and letting that pad spin a bit more quickly with just some nice, firm pressure is probably the better approach. It's also possible that D300 isn't quite potent enough for the task at hand and perhaps M100 or our brand spanking new M110 (oh yes, please!!!) is the ticket. M100 will give a noticeable lift in cut over D300, but with some added dust. I've got a '74 Alfa Romeo Spider at home with extremely hard paint that I wet sanded and buffed out using mostly M100 on microfiber discs with the MT300. It came up great, but it needed that extra bit of cut as I was pulling out sanding marks. But I never got crazy with pressure on the tool. Firm and solid pressure, yes, but lots of pad spin too.
Technique is a funny thing, and tricky to nail down as the variables are almost infinite. And the exact same technique doesn't work on every car as the paint systems are also almost infinitely variable. That's why nobody makes that perfect secret weapon of compound or pad that works 100% on every car every time. User skill is what really makes or breaks a detailing session. And as with any other intricate process, that skill set takes time to develop.
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