Unsure of which Meguiar's products to use after D300 Correction Compound

[LAfirefytr]

I recently purchased the new microfiber correction system and used it over the weekend. I have some other Meguiars products on hand as well and I'm not sure which to use and what order. I have the D300 and D301 from the MF system but I also have Mirror Glaze 21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0, M205 UF Polish, and Ultimate Liquid wax. I completed the correction step using D300 and got a good bit of the swirls/minor paint defects out so now I'm not sure what product and step to do now to get the best results. I'm working on a black 2013 Toyota Tundra.

I don't know if I should use the M205 polish [with either a 8207 ( for more defect removal) or 9207 pad]
2. followed by the 21
3. then either the D301 Finishing wax OR the Ultimate Liquid Wax.

I thought I read somewhere that ULW is just a better version of 21 so if that is the case, I wasn't sure if I even needed 21 anymore since I have ULW?
And then I'm not really sure of the difference between the D301 Finishing wax vs Ultimate Liquid Wax, which one to use, ect.
I'm open to suggestions on which to use/not use/ order to use based on your experience.

[LAfirefytr]

Re: Unsure of which Meguiar's products to use after D300 Correction Compound

I did a little more research and came across a post on here where it talked about M21 and ULW both being sealants (even though ULW is labeled a wax) so I guess my question is which one I should use to get the best results. Or will I see a difference? Is one from the Detailer line and the other from Consumer line and that's the main difference?

Also, I didn't know if I should use the D301 immediately after the D300 since they are a system and designed to be used together or if I could/should use the other products in between.
I'm open to suggestions on which to use/not use/ order to use based on your experience.

[Joe Dragon]

Re: Unsure of which Meguiar's products to use after D300 Correction Compound

I use the 301 right after 300 because, as you said, that's the way they were designed to work. After that, if you want to go further, I'd get a paint cleanser to clean off the excess oils, I use Griot's; M21 would be my choice as the final step. Then you're set.

[davey g-force]

Re: Unsure of which Meguiar's products to use after D300 Correction Compound

There's a few options, based on how your particular paint will respond and what you like etc...

So going forward, you could either:
- D301 on a MF finishing pad and call it done. (D301 is a cleaner wax, so it will remove any hazing left behing by D300 and also leave a layer of protection)

OR:
- D301 on a MF finishing pad;
- ULW or M21 on a black foam pad (for added protection, depending on what you think looks better)

OR:
- M205 on a black foam finishing pad;
- ULW or M21 on a black foam pad (for added protection, depending on what you think looks better)

Do some test spots, to see which combo you like the looks of better

[The Guz]

Re: Unsure of which Meguiar's products to use after D300 Correction Compound

There's a few options, based on how your particular paint will respond and what you like etc...

So going forward, you could either:
- D301 on a MF finishing pad and call it done. (D301 is a cleaner wax, so it will remove any hazing left behing by D300 and also leave a layer of protection)

OR:
- D301 on a MF finishing pad;
- ULW or M21 on a black foam pad (for added protection, depending on what you think looks better)

OR:
- M205 on a black foam finishing pad;
- ULW or M21 on a black foam pad (for added protection, depending on what you think looks better)

Do some test spots, to see which combo you like the looks of better

Hit the nail on the head as they say. It comes down to how much time you want to invest. D300/D301 is the quickest of them all. The last option will give you the best overall look as M205 will refine the finish but also gloss up the paint.

As far as M21 and ULW, they are both sealants. ULW is the longest lasting "wax" currently offered by Meguiar's. That doesn't take anything away from M21 which is also great. M21 needs to haze on the paint for about 10-15 min prior to removal. ULW can be removed from a panel within 3-5 mins and does not haze like a traditional wax. ULW will not stain trim and M21 will. You can't go wrong with either one.

If you want to kick it up another notch you could top off M21 or ULW with something like M26 after 12-24 hours to get the look of a carnauba but the protection of a sealant underneath it. Again it all depends on how much time you want to invest.

[LAfirefytr]

Re: Unsure of which Meguiar's products to use after D300 Correction Compound

I use the 301 right after 300 because, as you said, that's the way they were designed to work. After that, if you want to go further, I'd get a paint cleanser to clean off the excess oils, I use Griot's; M21 would be my choice as the final step. Then you're set.

There's a few options, based on how your particular paint will respond and what you like etc...

So going forward, you could either:
- D301 on a MF finishing pad and call it done. (D301 is a cleaner wax, so it will remove any hazing left behing by D300 and also leave a layer of protection)

OR:
- D301 on a MF finishing pad;
- ULW or M21 on a black foam pad (for added protection, depending on what you think looks better)

OR:
- M205 on a black foam finishing pad;
- ULW or M21 on a black foam pad (for added protection, depending on what you think looks better)

Do some test spots, to see which combo you like the looks of better

Hit the nail on the head as they say. It comes down to how much time you want to invest. D300/D301 is the quickest of them all. The last option will give you the best overall look as M205 will refine the finish but also gloss up the paint.

As far as M21 and ULW, they are both sealants. ULW is the longest lasting "wax" currently offered by Meguiar's. That doesn't take anything away from M21 which is also great. M21 needs to haze on the paint for about 10-15 min prior to removal. ULW can be removed from a panel within 3-5 mins and does not haze like a traditional wax. ULW will not stain trim and M21 will. You can't go wrong with either one.

If you want to kick it up another notch you could top off M21 or ULW with something like M26 after 12-24 hours to get the look of a carnauba but the protection of a sealant underneath it. Again it all depends on how much time you want to invest.

Thanks for all the great info guys. I really appreciate it. I'll be working on it this weekend.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Unsure of which Meguiar's products to use after D300 Correction Compound

The DA Microfiber Correction System was originally developed as a two step process, mainly for volume reconditioning facilities. The intended use is D300 on a DMC5 cutting disc followed by D301 on a DMF5 finishing disc. From the very beginning, however, we knew that some people would be using the microfiber cutting pads for fast defect removal using the safety of a DA rather than doing all that correcting with a rotary. This audience is generally not a volume reconditioner but rather a more specialized detailer. As such, we initially recommended the following alternative to the primary two step process:

Correct with D300/DMC5
Finish polish with M205/W9207 foam pad
Wax with M21/W9207 foam pad (or any other wax of your choosing)

The initial cut of D300/DMC5 can be quite aggressive and there is a chance that some hazing will occur. Light hazing will be cleaned up quickly with D301/DMF5 but in some cases a bit more cut is needed to fully remove this haze. In that case, M205/W9207 has always been our go to, but last year we introduced a dedicated polish in the DAMF System line, D302 Polish. This is designed to do one thing - remove DA haze. It should be used in cases where D300/DMC5 creates more haze than D301 can handle, and it should be applied on a fully primed DMF5 pad. Full priming here is absolutely critical!!

Detailers being detailers, we see a lot of experimentation taking place "in the field". Things like increasing cut using M105, M101 or M100 on the DMC5 pad (or the new Xtra Cut DMX5 pad), M205 on DMF5 pads, D301 and D302 on foam, etc. There are both benefits and potential problems to mixing and matching. The Mirror Glaze compounds will generally dust more than D300 but can cut better. If you don't need the extra cut, though, do yourself a favor and stick with D300 as it's virtually dust free, wipes off very easily, and leaves a great finish.

As always, the paint itself is going to be the big deciding factor. We've seen some paint that looks absolutely incredible after D300/DMC5 - zero marring, great clarity, fantastic gloss - and in those cases going straight to D301/DMF5 makes perfect sense. But we've also seen some paint that hazes quite badly with D300/DMC5 so the second step will depend on how the paint responds, and what your goals and time constraints are.

There are a million options out there, but don't confuse yourself by over thinking them. A DA haze is usually pretty easy to remove, but depending on the severity of it you'll need to pick the process that fits best for your needs: D301/DMF5, D302/DMF5, or M205/W9207.

After that, what wax do you like?

Use that one.

[LAfirefytr]

Re: Unsure of which Meguiar's products to use after D300 Correction Compound

The DA Microfiber Correction System was originally developed as a two step process, mainly for volume reconditioning facilities. The intended use is D300 on a DMC5 cutting disc followed by D301 on a DMF5 finishing disc. From the very beginning, however, we knew that some people would be using the microfiber cutting pads for fast defect removal using the safety of a DA rather than doing all that correcting with a rotary. This audience is generally not a volume reconditioner but rather a more specialized detailer. As such, we initially recommended the following alternative to the primary two step process:

Correct with D300/DMC5
Finish polish with M205/W9207 foam pad
Wax with M21/W9207 foam pad (or any other wax of your choosing)

The initial cut of D300/DMC5 can be quite aggressive and there is a chance that some hazing will occur. Light hazing will be cleaned up quickly with D301/DMF5 but in some cases a bit more cut is needed to fully remove this haze. In that case, M205/W9207 has always been our go to, but last year we introduced a dedicated polish in the DAMF System line, D302 Polish. This is designed to do one thing - remove DA haze. It should be used in cases where D300/DMC5 creates more haze than D301 can handle, and it should be applied on a fully primed DMF5 pad. Full priming here is absolutely critical!!

Detailers being detailers, we see a lot of experimentation taking place "in the field". Things like increasing cut using M105, M101 or M100 on the DMC5 pad (or the new Xtra Cut DMX5 pad), M205 on DMF5 pads, D301 and D302 on foam, etc. There are both benefits and potential problems to mixing and matching. The Mirror Glaze compounds will generally dust more than D300 but can cut better. If you don't need the extra cut, though, do yourself a favor and stick with D300 as it's virtually dust free, wipes off very easily, and leaves a great finish.

As always, the paint itself is going to be the big deciding factor. We've seen some paint that looks absolutely incredible after D300/DMC5 - zero marring, great clarity, fantastic gloss - and in those cases going straight to D301/DMF5 makes perfect sense. But we've also seen some paint that hazes quite badly with D300/DMC5 so the second step will depend on how the paint responds, and what your goals and time constraints are.

There are a million options out there, but don't confuse yourself by over thinking them. A DA haze is usually pretty easy to remove, but depending on the severity of it you'll need to pick the process that fits best for your needs: D301/DMF5, D302/DMF5, or M205/W9207.

After that, what wax do you like?

Use that one.

Thanks Michael, I appreciate you taking the time to respond.

[5xkmw]

Re: Unsure of which Meguiar's products to use after D300 Correction Compound

I kinda go with a "what is the paint telling me" approach. I wash and rinse with DI water, yet there sometimes will be hard water spots from rain. It can be enough sometimes to just use the finishing MF pad and Ultimate wax. Sometimes a little extra is needed, and i will go with 205 and a cutting pad, followed by the UW. And then there are times when I have had to use M100, followed by D300, followed by UW. If the weather is looking good, and I am short on time, the D301 and MF pad are the way to go for quick, light cleaning and wax. Bottom line, there are no hard rules. Time and energy dictate so much of what we weekend detailers can do.