Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

[Jarhead0754]

I would suggest just to buy the matching bottles with the detailer line. It's only $4 and it has the dilution ratios on the said and takes the guess work out of it. Also it just looks so much cooler and more professional.

As far as Meg's glass cleaner have u thought of trying the detailer line cleaner. Not sure how much it makes but it is alot and its super cheap.

[The Guz]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

I have never used the Meguiar's pads as I already had the Lake Country pads before I joined this forum. But I read nothing but good things about the Meguiar's pads. It's not about one pad being better than the other. You will be fine with either pad. I agree with you that Meguiar's does there homework prior to putting out a product to make sure it meets their standards. As someone stated if you get the G110 then it comes with the backing plate already and you just buy the pads. Smaller pads require a different size backing plate.

FYI don't forget to pick up some standard foam hand applicators. There are some areas you just can't get a DA into. Another option is 4" pads.


To answer your question about a rainx type product. This is where ultimate quik wax or D156 comes in handy. Works great on glass. In my opinion better than rainx and more durable than rainx.

APC and QID are two different products. APC is a cleaner that can be used universally with the different dilution ratios. QID has a light cleaning ability but leaves UV protection behind.

You can get QID in the detailer line

http://www.meguiars.com/en/professional/products/d14901-quik-interior-detailer/

[Jbirk]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

I use the flat pads.

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html

I would pick up 2 orange 3 white and 1 black.
Orange = compound
White = polish
Black = wax

These are also nice. I have used the polishing bad with great success with M205.

http://www.autogeek.net/hydrotech-low-profile-3pack.html

Blue = compound
Orange = Polish
Red = wax

Thanks.. I love keeping it simple. Just out if curiosity are the Lake City pads actually better? Or simply less expensive? I ask only because I have yet to ever try a "bad" Meguiar's product... And because all things being equal I will buy Meguiar's . It is not so much economics of scale to me being I have only a couple vehicles... Would be vastly different if buying pads was a regular, recurrent expense.

My only current non Meguiar's products, are Stoner Invisible Glass, which is vastly superior IMO to the Nxt Glass Cleaner, and the Perfect Cleaner... The Meg's glass cleaners are right on par with eagle one 20/20 IMO... Certainly not bad but more streaked in my hands. That said the Meg's glass cleaners smell the best and kick Windex to the curbside any day!

The only other products that I buy are RainX for the side windows and Aquapel for the windshield... Would love it if Meg's would make a windshield product. *hint*

I also like having about three consistent colors vs. needing a color chart to figure out 9 different pad colors and what the do, lol. So I may well buy the Meg's pads anyway. Besides not having to buy another backing plate will likely be more cost effective.


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I plan to refill the consumer bottles with *like* products and relabel them, of course. They are top quality sprayers that don't leak! Thanks I.e. This means I would put 135 I'm UQD for example, Last Touch (if I ever buy some) in the regular QD...


I will tell you what else I need to buy in bulk is Quick Interior Detailer. I go through this stuff like it is going out of style! Does the pro line have this?


What about APC? Is that like QID?

[The Guz]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

I use the flat pads.

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html

I would pick up 2 orange 3 white and 1 black.
Orange = compound
White = polish
Black = wax

These are also nice. I have used the polishing bad with great success with M205.

http://www.autogeek.net/hydrotech-low-profile-3pack.html

Blue = compound
Orange = Polish
Red = wax

[Jbirk]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

Great information from Guz, most people on here use the same methods. I prefer the Griot's polisher because it is more powerful, and it comes with a lifetime warranty. If something happens to it, all you have to do is send it back and they send you another one. I, like Guz, also prefer to use the Lake Country pads. Get yourself a backing plate, some 5.5" pads, and have at it. You will find that most people prefer the 5.5" pads. You can also pick up a smaller backing plate to use the smaller LC pads to get to those hard to reach areas. All of this is just my own personal preferences. You really need to try products. and find what works best for you...most of all, have fun doing it!!!

Fair enough... In that case, I would use the White LC pads right for polishing vs. the Meguiar's Soft Buff 2.0 (yellow)?

Then which pad is their finishing pad? It seems with Meguiar's it would be the "black" one and years ago the 9000 series ones.

LC seems to have a TON of pad choices. I have no idea what the difference is between blue, red, and their yellow. Which is for wax application?

[cfilly]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

Great information from Guz, most people on here use the same methods. I prefer the Griot's polisher because it is more powerful, and it comes with a lifetime warranty. If something happens to it, all you have to do is send it back and they send you another one. I, like Guz, also prefer to use the Lake Country pads. Get yourself a backing plate, some 5.5" pads, and have at it. You will find that most people prefer the 5.5" pads. You can also pick up a smaller backing plate to use the smaller LC pads to get to those hard to reach areas. All of this is just my own personal preferences. You really need to try products. and find what works best for you...most of all, have fun doing it!!!

[BillE]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

One thing about removing the tops...when you really start really twisting (like with a pair of pliers) it will sound like the top is cracking and just plain 'busting.' It's from the little locking prongs on the sprayer threads coming loose. Kinda scary sounding to say the least. But, doesn't seem to hurt anything.

Bill

[The Guz]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

Yup. I reuse the maroon detail spray, the UQD, UQW, All wheel & tire cleaner. The sprayers twist off. They are twisted on pretty tight but they are removable. If not try some channel locks. That will get them open.

[Eldorado2k]

@Guz. You refill the consumer bottles? How do you get em open? They seem to have tamper proof tops on them._.

Btw, I've seen a vid where the Junkman applies Meguiars Diamond Cut Compound on a yellow Lake Country foam cutting pad, turns his Porter Cable DA to speed 6, and makes sure to apply heavy pressure along with multiple slow passes on an already perfect hood. It didn't scour one bit. It left it LSP ready

[The Guz]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

Perfect, I will buy a couple black and yellow Megs pads and a G110v2. Do I need a backing plate, any fancy extension cords, carrying case, face shield, etc?


I swear I ordinarily don't keep two (2) types of wash on hand, and UWW works fine with clay as does UQD... both are slicker than snot, but do not seem to impede the clay from working properly... Regardless, I guess it is reasonable to buy some other products as GC Wash is cheaper than UWW, and QD is cheaper than UQD...



I already ordered a gallon of #135. What do you think? Should I get some Last Touch to mix up as a good clay lube or just buy Gold Class wash?

Honestly, the GC Wash is probably the most economical as a 48oz bottle (about $7) theoretically mixes up to be about 48 gallons of clay lube.

Regardless, I think I am going to get one of these for Quick Detailer:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...la=pla_6925658

I don't use soapy water as clay lube myself bit if it works for you then keep using it. I use D155 last touch as clay lube. $19.99 for 128 oz's is very cost effective. Plus the added benefit of using it a s a QD. Both M135 and D155 have their place. M135 has the hydrophobic properties and gives your wax that little boost. D155 is a QD similar to what you get in the clay kit. Both will last you a long time. I actually re-purpose the consumer bottles and fill them up.

Also D111 shampoo plus is 128 oz at $19.99. Dilution ratio is 1oz/gallon. Very cost effective.

Also consider getting one of these little pump sprayers. They actually work great with a rinseless wash.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1272962

Thank you... I will order some Last Touch, some #205, UC, and UP. I feel really awkward about using #105 - it just seems too powerful to me. Maybe if I were trying to remove wet sanding marks, which I am not it would make sense. At least I cannot see taking something that is 12/12 in cutting ability when something like #85 Diamond Cut has MUCH LESS cutting ability, yet would scour the paint like a Scotch Brite pad if I were silly enough to try it.

Does the Ultimate Polish actually "cut" or "clean" the paint? Or is it a pure polish like Deep Crystal #2?



Okay, someone recommended #7 as a polish. How does#7 compare with DC#2, which I already have, and Ultimate Polish?


As a side note, I have ColorX, ScratchX 2.0, and SwirlX. Where do these fit in against the new products? Should I just jump to using #205?

If it doesn't work, would I step up to SwirlX, ScratchX, Ultimate Compound, or #105? i.e. What would be the order of things?

You won't need both UP or M205. The difference between the 2 is that M205 offers more correction ability and UP offers more polishing oils. UP still has correction ability.

M105 won't scour the paint. It can sometimes finish LSP ready.

M7 is a pure polish. It offers no correction. It gives you more gloss if you need it. M7 can hide swirls as it fills them in along with minor blemishes. It also doesn't offer any protection. It will last a few washes. If you are correcting with a DA I would stick with M205 or UP.

If you are looking to do a quick detail then this is where colorx would come into play. By quick detail I mean wash, clay, cleaner wax and as an option laying down a wax like ultimate or NXT 2.0 for longer protection.

Swirlx is a cleaner polish. Sort of a similar to M205. M205 is so versatile you won't need those other products.

This link will help you out.
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...t-surprise-you!

To answer your question there is no standard procedure as all paint responds differently. That is why a test spot with the least aggressive product is recommended as I previously stated. This will tell you how the paint is responding. I would try M205 or UP first with the proper pad. If this works then follow up with a wax. If you need more correction then go to UC > M205 > wax. If you need more correction then go to M105 > M205 >wax.

This chart should help you out to see the cut level of the various meguiar's products.

Don't slap me with a trout, but I still have some Eagle-1 Wax-As-You-Dry, which I have probably had since 2006... It is still liquid, and I still use it... Until it's out, I see no reason to buy or supplement with another product... When the time comes I am going to try UQW as its replacement though!


I try to be a one(1) product for one(1) purpose kind of guy. While I know you could protect a car with Gold Class Wax, Next Tech 2.0, Ultimate Wax (sealant), #20 Sealant, Hi-Tech #26, or #21, and that just about all of these products come in both a paste or liquid... I see no reason to try them all... Just other people who spend a LOT more time/money than I do detailing just tell me which one is best & I will buy it, lol.

Simply put, I like to find one product that works and stick with it.... when it is nearly out, I look for an "improved" version of the same thing (or something better). As far as I know everything ultimately gets down to preference.

Some people may apply a sealant for example then top with a wax, some products are sealant/wax blends, etc. I always figured I would apply only one coat because if a second coat is 2% better, I am past the point of diminishing returns. I also figure the solvents in any given product probably remove the product below it. That is to say I don't actually believe in layering.

I might be totally wrong correct me if I am wrong but these are more or less equivalents:

Gold Class Wax = Hi Tech Yellow #26
Next Tech Wax 2.0 = Polymer Sealant #20
Ultimate Wax (Sealant) = Synthetic Sealant 2.0 #21

When you are ready for ultimate quik wax get D156. Saves you money getting it in bulk.

Topping is very common. Some will not see the difference and some of us will. Meguiar's recommends 2 coats of any product to ensure even coverage. FYI M26 doesn't have any type of cleaners that will remove the previous layer if you top your sealant.

Modified your list to paint you a more accurate picture.

Gold Class Wax = Hi Tech Yellow #26 both carnauba based products
Polymer Sealant #20 is a cleaner synthetic wax. It would fall more into the cleaner wax family with M6, white wax, black wax, colorx, A12 (maroon bottle), D151, D301. The main pro for M20 is that is lasts longer since it's synthetic based.
NXT 2.0 = Synthetic Sealant 2.0 #21 (M21 is the pro version of NXT)
Ultimate wax = There is no equivalent in the pro line.

[Jarhead0754]

If u have minor swirls like u say then swirl x or 205 on yellow polishing pad 2.0 would get rid of those. Even a cleaner wax might do good but again without seeing it i really can't tell.

[Eldorado2k]

Correction: If you still have a bottle of "wax as you dry" from 2006, that would mean you do not use it.
Either that, or you've been driving a smartcar for the past decade:p lol.

[Jbirk]

Re: Need Product Recommendation Assistance...

Nobody here is gonna criticize u for using other than meguiars. Alot of people have other products. U find something u like and stick with it. However when doing any kind of correction it is silly to use any products with wax in them just cuz it's more lubricated for claying.

Thanks... That helps a lot. I was just using the products with wax in them simply because I had them in-stock at-home and figured they would do the job without a trip to buy more products. Ultimately, I just figured I need something *slick* to clay to avoid marring the paint.

My paint right now is in excellent shape, but it is not in "show car" shape. There is ever so slight a faint cobb-webbing effect, but you cannot see it at all because the Nxt 2.0 (on it currently) has completely covered it even in bright sunlight...

That said, the paint is NOT perfect... and at some point it WILL be necessary to polish it as the cobb webbing gets to the point where it cannot be completely hidden by a pure polish/wax.

One Good (Bad) thing is the platinum is a pretty light color, so it doesn't show the defects nearly as much as my last car. The downside, is platinum (AKA Silver) is pretty boring. It is a LOT like working on a white car... sure it is highly reflective, but there just isn't much depth. My last car looked GREAT! It was a 2008 Mazda, with paint that looked almost as good as a new 2014 model. It was reflective and barely swirled... it WAS getting to be time to machine polish it with a DA, but I traded-it away instead.

Regardless,

[Jarhead0754]

Nobody here is gonna criticize u for using other than meguiars. Alot of people have other products. U find something u like and stick with it. However when doing any kind of correction it is silly to use any products with wax in them just cuz it's more lubricated for claying.

[Jarhead0754]

With the g110v2 it will come with a backing plate for the 2.0 pads, bag, xtra brushes. However if u use other pads like the damf or the 4" pads u will need a different backing plate. I just assume make it easy and stick with meguiars pads but the guz mention lake country pads which are excellent as well. His advice should carry alot of weight with u as he knows what he's talking about.

It's hard to say what pad and product u should start out with. If u post a close up pic if the paint we can give u a better idea. Typically u go with the least aggressive and work ur way up as necessary. But i would do uc on a yellow pad. U could follow it with #205 or UP on a yellow 2.0 pad.

UP has more polishing oils in it than 205, however u will still get some minor correction with it. Everything depends on product and pads as to how much cut or polish u get along with hard or soft paint.

As far as #7 it is a pure glaze just for added gloss. U can add it after UP or 205. As far as color x it is a cleaner wax, scratch x is more for spot repair and swirl x is minor swirls.