New Car Advice

[The Guz]

Re: New Car Advice

It does not hurt to top off D301 with something that offers a little more protection. With Ultimate wax it's a wipe on wipe off product. I believe on the directions it states wait 3-5 min before it can be removed. So as an example say you start on half of the hood. Once you do half of the hood you can go to say a fender. By the time you finish applying to the fender the ULW on half of the hood should be ready to be removed.

[punkguins]

Re: New Car Advice

Update:

I was waiting for my latest stuff that you guys helped me pick out and this week received my 5.5" backing pad, white, black, and red foam pads along with foam cleaner and brush.

Yesterday, I washed the Lexus via 2 buckets using 2 different wool mitts. I washed the tires and rim as well. I dried the car well with a Meguiars waffle towel and then clayed using the yellow (mild) I purchased from Chem Guys, always wiping the area with a microfiber when done. I noticed very few contaminants being picked up and instead had to deal with flys getting attracted to the scent of the lube (smells like pink chewing gum). Note: I have the Meguiars waffle towel and the 1st time I used it, it dried my entire car but this time, it was too saturated and I wonder if washing it ruined it (I don't know what temp I as I didn't notice but I think it was hot water).

After claying, I used the PC with the 5.5" white foam pads and applied M205 polish and did 20"x20" sections. I did a 3 section pass each time (i would first do overlapping sections going up and down, then side to side, then up and down). I applied the product on the pads in an X pattern. I cleaned the pads after every other 20"x20" was completed and used the pad brush. After I had repeated this awhile, the foam pad was getting slightly ripped up due to me applying too much pressure on the white pads with the pad brush. So, I changed pads and when I cleaned the foam pad, I would go to setting 6 on the PC and lightly brush it ( a lot of fine mist polish will whip off by itself and this AM I am feeling it in my lungs so I might suggest a mask during the clean step). Anyways, the polishing took a long time and I did section by section, always wiping with one of 3 microfiber cloths.

I then changed to the 5.5" black wax/sealant foam pad and applied Meguiars Finishing Wax D30116. I didn't change pads as the wax seemed to go well and since the car is so clean, I just used this pad and it quickly did the entire car. I didn't really let it set and instead as I did each section with 2 passes, I would then set down the PC and wipe off the wax….did I need to let it set longer before buffing off with microfiber?

Today, weather permitting, I plan on using the red pad (softest) and applying Meguiars ULW as my sealant. I do wonder if there is added benefit since both D30116 and ULW are synthetic products. Also, do I need to let it set before buffing off?

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: New Car Advice

You have helped but I wanted to pick your brain some more (hope u don't mind)

I wanted to ask how many white pads (with M205) to do one car? Do you go thru all 3 in one detail session? if I have 3 white pads, do I use one for the front hood and fenders, one for the sides, and one for roof and back hood/fender? What speed for the white pads?

Also, when you say clean the pads every other application, I guess that means for every other 2' x 2' section, I will stop, brush out the pad, and then start again?

Could I then use the black pad with a wax and then another black pad with a sealer? For the wax and sealer does having 2 black pads suffice?

What speed setting for all those steps on the PC? Finally, if I do need the orange pad for swirls, what speed is recommended?

I think I'll play it cautious on the orange pad til I feel more comfortable with the PC...

Yes, your getting the picture now. When I first started I only used one pad for the cleaning step, with the pressure, and product being applied (over saturated and only cleaned pad about 4 or 5 times during use) I really wasn't doing the job with the correct technique and my pads wasn't lasting long at all. My details was good but not great and with a 5'' backing plate while using the 6.5 pads with the pressure and over saturating with products my pads were being broken down and only got sometimes 3 or 4 vehicles use out of them.

Ya, 3 pads are about right for the 1st cleaning step, because your removing very small amounts of clear not to mention contaminants on your pad while it's spinning. Why it's so important to clean your pad after every couple of applications of product, or like you stated after every other 18''X18'' area your working on. Just like the reason working on a smaller section helps you focus on that area being cleaned and in turn doing a better job also remember to over lap each pass and when you clean your pad every couple section. Remember to prime every new pad and when switching pads & to clean on the fly and with a foam brush also if you have compressed air to blow air across the pad while spinning. Keeping your pad/s cleaned and not over saturating them you will not only save and keep your pads longer and in better shape but your polishing will be bunch better as well!

Since the cleaning steps is the most important step in any detail or polishing I will work on the front of the vehicle in sections.(just like imagining marking out sections of your hood into 6 section or so in that 18''X18'' to cover that area) I will work the hood/fenders/front bumper 2 to 3 section passes/or up to 2 to 3 times to make sure it's the cleanest possible, then switch to a new pad and prime it before starting on the roof and trunk lid. Doing same process with 2 to 3 section passes or times and will switch again before doing the sides, and again prime pad. Also will be using speed 5 or 6 on the DA and remember to use about 12lbs. to 15lbs.(you can practice using your bathroom scale with the wieght of your DA and hand to get an ideal of how much pressure you need to apply) on this step while using slow arm speed as well. Now look at how your paint has gloss or the reflection your getting at spending all that time on the cleaning step is so important and now your paint is finally cleaned! If/when you have to use the cutting pad use with the same technique but remember that the cutting pad's foam is more aggressive then polishing pad so don't work as long and check procress often when using as for spot repair on scratches or blemishes until you get better familar with it and the technique.

After spending 3,4 and sometimes I have spent 5 hours or more on this step alone depending on the size of the vehicle and severity of the finish. Your now ready to apply and penertrate the oils back into the pores of the paint that have been broken down or deteriorated over time, and in this step I will grab a finishing pad (usally 2 on this step)or a small 4'' foam hand applicater(one reason I apply my polish by hand 90% of the time/ I find it faster going in straight back and forth motion and I'm not using up my finishing pads) and apply my polsh, if your applying my DA use speed 4 and use medium arm speed with about 5lbs to 8lbs pressure and make about 2 cover passes and I don't focus on working on the 18''X18'' area just applying an even coverage over surface. At this rate you can apply polish to entire vehicle and when ending where you started , then remove product.

LSP(Last Step Product) Use a finishing pad on speed 3 on your DA with the wieght of the machine with alittle more then medium arm speed with 2 cover passes again to get even coverage.***IMPORTANT*** Apply very,very thin applications of your favorite LSP, almost were you can't see it and use 2 pads on this step. Wait the 12 hours or so for the LSP to cure or crosslink to the surface before applying your second coat for even coverage and it looks better to your eyes. Now this is where some detailers has different thoughts about this process of layering or topping your LSP and I say try it for your self and see. If you can tell a difference in the gloss(light colors) or more reflections(darker colors) then your the only one it matters too and counts!!!! Just remember never apply another LSP with cleaners in it over your first application because it can remove some or all of your first layer of protection and wasting your time.

[punkguins]

Re: New Car Advice

You have helped but I wanted to pick your brain some more (hope u don't mind)

I wanted to ask how many white pads (with M205) to do one car? Do you go thru all 3 in one detail session? if I have 3 white pads, do I use one for the front hood and fenders, one for the sides, and one for roof and back hood/fender? What speed for the white pads?

Also, when you say clean the pads every other application, I guess that means for every other 2' x 2' section, I will stop, brush out the pad, and then start again?

Could I then use the black pad with a wax and then another black pad with a sealer? For the wax and sealer does having 2 black pads suffice?

What speed setting for all those steps on the PC? Finally, if I do need the orange pad for swirls, what speed is recommended?

I think I'll play it cautious on the orange pad til I feel more comfortable with the PC...

[davey g-force]

Re: New Car Advice

I agree - get the 5.5 in pads - you'll get much better results on a PC.

As far as which pads, I was referring to Meguiars pads when I said yellow polishing and black finishing pads. Unfortunately the color scheme is not consistent between different foam pad manufacturers. The LC pads which you posted are still very good pads though (I have many myself).

I like to keep it simple - I would just get 3 orange and 3 black LC 5.5in pads. The orange is versatile enough to be used for M205 if you want a little more cleaning/cutting power (as in your case) and also compounds such as M105 / UC. The black is versatile enough for finishing polishes like M205 and also applying wax. Make sure you use a new pad for each new product.

[The Guz]

Re: New Car Advice

I just realized you are local to me. For all I know I have probably seen you around town. I would definitely get the backing plate to use the 5.5" pads. The porter cable works great with that size pad. Also you may want to consider taking a trip to detailing.com and check out their vast variety of items.

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: New Car Advice

Check to see what weight is on your Porter Cable DA (or call where you bought it and ask if the weight is for the 5.5'' or 6.5 inch pads.

The 5.5' pads are more suited for the porter cable and just better all around! (IMO)

If you can swing it I would get a 6 pk deal and get 3) white polishing pads/ 2) black finishing pads and 1) orange light-medium cutting pad, and a micro fiber pad cleaning brush (will save you time and money in the long run and it's important to brush your pads)

Because that's about what it takes to do a good job on just one vehicle. A minimum of 3 polishing pads for the cleaning step (keeps your pads from getting to contaminated and over saturated with cleaners/ even though you still need to clean your pads on the fly at least every other application of product and a micro fiber pad cleaning brush and comrpressed air if you have it) Also 2 finishing pads for your LSP>Last Step Product amd I recommend a light cutting pad because there always that area or spot that has a little more swirls or scratches and after going over that area a couple times and it don't help I thin grab the cutting pad)

And as soon as you can I would get another 6 pk of pads (you can't have enough) and again get 3) white polishing pads 1) black finishing 1) light-medium cutting pad and 1) heavy polishing or the ultra light finishing.

I keep all my pads labeled(so I don't cross contaminant with different products) and in there original bag but not sealed and in big sealed plastic totes, And same way for my micro fiber towels, (in different sealed totes) again in there own totes, my Meguiars in one/ another quality micro fiber in another and last my misc older cheaper micro fiber for door jals ans such in another.

I don't think you can be to clean just can't see leaving my pads and micro fiber towels out in the open to collect dust or just one grain of sand could do a number on a finish after you've just spent many hours polishing to perfection and then the last wipe could send it all down the drain!

Hope I've helped

[synesthesia]

Re: New Car Advice

Congratulations on your new Lexus. I just purchased one for my daily driver. What I have discovered is that the lexus plant in Japan takes good care in wet sanding its base coats prior to applying the clear. Have fun detailing it. The clear coat is durable but not as hard as BMW.

[punkguins]

Re: New Car Advice

OK. Looks like I need more advice in regard to foam pads. Using this link, I was going to purchase the white (for M205) and blue foam pads for Ultimate Liquid Wax (that's what I meant in previous post, not UQW). Both pads would be 6.5". So, my question is: did I pick the right colors for the products? And, when do you buy the black pad vs. the blue pad? Also, what setting do I use on the porter Cable for these pads?

http://www.chemicalguys.com/ProductD...4%5F6&CartID=2

or my previous post, here are the Pad Choices:

Lake Country 6.5 Inch Polishing Pads
Heavy Cutting	Light-Medium Cutting	Heavy Polishing
Light-Medium Polishing	Finishing	Ultra Light Finishing

[punkguins]

Re: New Car Advice

OK. Looks like I need more advice in regard to foam pads. Using this link, I was going to purchase the white (for M205) and blue foam pads for Ultimate Liquid Wax (that's what I meant in previous post, not UQW). Both pads would be 6.5". So, my question is: did I pick the right colors for the products? And, when do you buy the black pad vs. the blue pad? Also, what setting do I use on the porter Cable for these pads?

http://www.chemicalguys.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BUFLC%5F104%5F6&CartID=2

[davey g-force]

Re: New Car Advice

Good plan.

Although UQW is a great product and durable for a spray wax, it's still only meant to be a "top-up" or booster to a proper coat of wax.

You should apply Ultimate Wax the first time, and maybe once every six months*, and use UQW in between.

*Just a guide, dependant on numerous variables.

[punkguins]

Re: New Car Advice

Hi, I really want to thank everyone for the great advice and quick responses. Awesome group!

On my next wash, I'll take it out in the sun and really examine it for swirls. After the wash and dry, I'm gonna test a 2'x2' area and use a mild clay, then a yellow foam pad with the M205 and buff clean. Then, I thought I might just compare it to surrounding areas and take a pic. I'll just continue on repeating the procedure.

Once I do the entire car, I'll use Ultimate Quick Wax as the wax & sealer. Here I was curious if I should use a foam hand applicator or again my Porter Cable with the suggested black foam pad.

I can't wait til try it all out!!

Thanks.

[The Guz]

Re: New Car Advice

Even though your car is new, that does not mean there are no swirls. It is common for a new car to have DISO (dealer installed swil option) when they wash it before you get it. Wash it and clay then pull it out into the sun do see the tue condition of the clear coat. White hides things a little better so that may be why you don't see the swirls.

I agree with getting some foam pads. It would allow you to a couple of test spots to see if you are getting the deired results. It's possible M205 and a polishing pad wiuld be all you need. If you need something more aggressive you can use D300+cutting disk and follow up with M205+foam polishing pad or D300+foam polishing pad followed up by M205+foam polishing pad.

I would definitely clay the car.

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: New Car Advice

to MOL punkguins

Congratulations on the new car!

Here's something very important everyone should remember!

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?60634-quot-use-the-least-aggressive-product-to-get-the-job-done-quot&highlight=using+the+least+aggressive+product+to+get+the+jobe+done

I agree with Davey g the DAMF system is over kill for your new car , could be good for your 20 year old honda but again, it is to much to start out with, things like older paint,oxidation UV rays damaging the finish and you didn't post any pics so I'm just giving examples, what you could be getting into with out starting with the least aggressive products to get the job done & doing a test spot! To me that's scary because it's like jumping right in and removing paint right off the bat not knowing the condition of the paint and how thin it could be being that old and the reason behind using least aggressive products & a test spot!

And has far as claying your new vehicle or old, Meguiars offers 3 types of detailing clay to help with the needs your after as you know, but to this day I have yet to use it in any way the cosumers brand/ mild or aggressive to harm or hurt the paint besides hazing the paint alittle on severly neclected paint with the aggressive clay but that's wasn't nearly as bad as what I was working with! It's not going to damage your finish, it's job is to glide across your surface with a detailing lube and abrade off any above surface bonded contaminants that is on or in your paint's surface.

Again Davey g nailed it with his recommendation (he's one smart guy)for your new car and about all of the guys on here would tell you the same thing, clay it first and then the M205 Ultra Finishing Polish (which is a fantastic cleaner/polish) and along with your Porter Cable and get you a 6 pk of Lake Country 5.5'' LLC pads ( my personal pick of pads ) 4)polishing & 2)finishing because with these 2 different pads along with machine speed/ arm speed/ and pressure and M205 you have the abilty to have a less aggressive to pretty aggressive combo nation to tackle almost anything you could face with yur new or old car besides deep scratches. And later on when you get comfortable and find your technique I would also step up to the cutting pads to offer you even more aggressiveness.

There's tons more info and the do's and don't but were all here to help each other out, and remember the only stupid question is the one you! me! or anyone didn't ask. here's some great articles to read and go through to help give you a better understanding of some things and maybe shed some light on things you may have been wondering about!

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?33-How-To-Articles

And some great how to video's!

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?134-How-To-Videos

And as for the D300 & D301 you didn't make a mistake just future purchase spending that you will be needing some where down the road, so go get you a black test hood and start practicing

[davey g-force]

Re: New Car Advice

Thanks!

I want the least aggressive treatment so I think I'll get a foam pad and use the M205 before waxing/sealing. Which pad would you recommend? Also, your response implies foam is softer than microfiber pads. Is that true or does it depend on the manufacturer? The Lexus forum seems to have owners that state Lexus paint is soft and prone to chips. Is there a rule of thumb for soft paint and whether it's foam or microfiber?

I think I'll clay very carefully as I saw what the medium grade clay did to my 20 year old car. I bought the softest clay I could from a local detailing shop so I'll try that this weekend. Thanks again!!

Get a couple of yellow polishing pads and black finishing pads. Try both on a test spot and see which results you like best. I'd personally just go for the yellow for your case.

Yes, foam is less agressive than MF pads i.e. MF has more correcting ability, but can also marr soft paints, meaning you'd have to follow up with a finishing polish. The foam would be more suitable in your case, especially if your car is supposed to have soft paint.