DAMF system vs M105 or UC plus polish with DA Power pads

[guitar1969]

I am new to advanced detailing and the Mequires line and just a hobbiest that wants a good looking car. Need to do some minor paint correction (wet sanding) in some areas, with compounding and polishing/finishing. I am looking at picking up the DA powersystem tool(drill attachment), trying to understand the differences between the pads and compounds. Since the microfiber tech is newer, is that the future for Meguires vs the normal DA pads , is there overlap, and which one would be easier to use for a weekend warrior.

Thanks
Michael

[Stephan]

Re: DAMF system vs M105 or UC plus polish with DA Power pads

Michael-

I wouldn't call wet sanding "minor", but that may just be me.

Describe your car a bit more and upload pics of the paint damage if possible. That will help everyone get a better idea of what you are trying to do.

[Evan.J]

Re: DAMF system vs M105 or UC plus polish with DA Power pads

Michael-

I wouldn't call wet sanding "minor", but that's just me

I wouldn't call wet sanding minor either.
I agree please explain more of what your working on what you want to accomplish and photos of the current condition would be great.

To answer your question while MF is a great tool and has its place so does foam. There have been times that a MF disc just doesn't finish down well and a foam pad was needed. So I think both a needed and it all depends on what your working with that's why a test spot is so important.

[guitar1969]

Re: DAMF system vs M105 or UC plus polish with DA Power pads

Here's the thread I created a few days back about the issue as a result of a roof wrap that was installed on the roof before I bought it:

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?59674-cloudy-and-pitted-clear-coat

I got a few estimates from detailers and they want $300-$600 to wetsand and detail the roof which is too much for me, and since I like to detail (by hand up till now), a chance to buy some new products (Currently just have a rotary which I have never used for detailing). Been doing a lot of research on this forum, and did a small test area yesterday with some 2000 grit wetsand(tried 3000 fisrt but wasn't agressive enough), and then followed up with UC, all done by hand, and worked very well. I understand the hazards, and feel it will be much easier with DA at least for part of it than by hand like I did on the test area. Factory BMW Finish. My biggest issue right now is deciding which combo of Meguires products to use. Here is what I am sure of and where I have a few decisions to make, with being careful about going through clear coat:

DA Attachment to Drill

Wetsanding: Unigrit 2000 applied with Meguires sanding block or DA Unigrit 2000 Pad (with foam insert) - damp sanding - From what I read, the DA Unigrit would be less aggressive than applying by hand, even with same grit. But I was thinking the sanding block may be a better option since it is the roof(flat) and looking to get a level consisitent clear coat surface.

Compounding :

UC (Which I have ) or M105 applied by hand with foam applicator

Or with the DA system and cutting pad - I am assuming opposite of the wetsanding , the DA application would be more aggressive.

Or DAMF System for Compound and Finishing My main question and reason for this post.

Thanks, Michael

[Evan.J]

Re: DAMF system vs M105 or UC plus polish with DA Power pads

Micheal did you happen to speak with Mario about this?

[Evan.J]

Re: DAMF system vs M105 or UC plus polish with DA Power pads

Was this a brand new car or a used car? When you say pitted it made me think of something that can happen to a repainted panel that is rushed when being painted and it called Solvent Pop. The second thing that I thought of was an issue called Dieback or shrinkage. These two things happen when a repaint is rushed and the solvent get trapped inter the paint and the solvent pop actually causes holes to appear in the paint. The dieback happens after the paint has cured for a few months where after the job was recently done the paint looks great but after all the solvent and gases evaporate from the paint your get a shrinking effect which will make the paint look very cloudy.

[guitar1969]

Re: DAMF system vs M105 or UC plus polish with DA Power pads

Yes. Very nice, and agreed a wet sand and compound was needed but was a little too costly for me IMHO, although willing to work with me. If I didn't have an interest in doing this myself I would probably have used him. He was the one who talked up the DA system with M105 or UC and the DAMF system too, so trying to determine best avenue

[guitar1969]

Re: DAMF system vs M105 or UC plus polish with DA Power pads

Was this a brand new car or a used car? When you say pitted it made me think of something that can happen to a repainted panel that is rushed when being painted and it called Solvent Pop. The second thing that I thought of was an issue called Dieback or shrinkage. These two things happen when a repaint is rushed and the solvent get trapped inter the paint and the solvent pop actually causes holes to appear in the paint. The dieback happens after the paint has cured for a few months where after the job was recently done the paint looks great but after all the solvent and gases evaporate from the paint your get a shrinking effect which will make the paint look very cloudy.

This is a used car but issue is not due to repaint. It was due to a roof wrap, or the removal of it. I took it to a well respected detailer in Orange County that does high end work, Richard Lin - www.showcardetailing.com, and he thinks it was because of the roof wrap and the paint not being able to breath. Pitted may not be the best description. Best viewed from an angle with a bright light, it looks like there are small pin pricks on the surface, creating an orange peel effect but not quite like Orange peel. It is subtle, but there. I didn't even notice it until a BMW dealer doing service on the vehicle pointed it out and denied to repair sunroof seal under warranty due to "External circumstances" - claiming roof had been painted, causing me to look into it. I verified it had not been painted. My car is going to be at a body shop next week for other work, and I will ask them as well - I was considering having them do the work too but not sure if they would be even more costly. My brief test last night seems to incate the course of action - just looking for the best and safest way to do it at this point.

[Evan.J]

Re: DAMF system vs M105 or UC plus polish with DA Power pads

If you have never wet sanded before then I would honestly leave it to someone with the proper tools and techniques. Mario has both of those and if your interested in learning then watching him taking, notes and asking questions would greatly benefit you. The work that he does is top notch and I'm sure he would have no problem working with you and showing you what to do.

Thats my take and my opinion but if he is will to then take that offer and run with it.

Oh and I will say wet sanding is very labor intensive and meticulous work and very time consuming. But you get what you pay for and you will learn bodyshops and deal ships don't always know best or do best.

I hope it all works out with you but if you feel you need to do this on your own the. Let us know and we can try to help you.

[guitar1969]

Re: DAMF system vs M105 or UC plus polish with DA Power pads

If you have never wet sanded before then I would honestly leave it to someone with the proper tools and techniques. Mario has both of those and if your interested in learning then watching him taking, notes and asking questions would greatly benefit you. The work that he does is top notch and I'm sure he would have no problem working with you and showing you what to do.

Thats my take and my opinion but if he is will to then take that offer and run with it.

Oh and I will say wet sanding is very labor intensive and meticulous work and very time consuming. But you get what you pay for and you will learn bodyshops and deal ships don't always know best or do best.

I hope it all works out with you but if you feel you need to do this on your own the. Let us know and we can try to help you.

I Appreciate the warning, and noted but can someone just answer the question I posted about the differences between the two processes?
Thanks, Michael

[Evan.J]

Re: DAMF system vs M105 or UC plus polish with DA Power pads

I Appreciate the warning, and noted but can someone just answer the question I posted about the differences between the two processes?
Thanks, Michael

Well if you going to tackle this yourself then you will need to get yourself a DA polisher and the MF correction kit. The Cutting discs are able to remove 3000 grit sanding marks. IMO i would combine D300 with a couple dots of M105. This combo allows for a longer working time with M105 while keeping the high level of cutting. You will need to inspect the work to unsure you remove all the sanding marks. After the sanding marks have been removed you will want to move to M205 on a foam polishing pad to remove any micro marring that will take place. After that you will want to seal your work with anything you choose.

[Detailing by M]

Re: DAMF system vs M105 or UC plus polish with DA Power pads

Here's a recent Wet Sand job I did. This will give you an idea of what to expect.
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?59469-71-BMW-2002-Repaint-Wet-Sanded-and-Polished&highlight=bmw+2002

[guitar1969]

Re: DAMF system vs M105 or UC plus polish with DA Power pads

Well if you going to tackle this yourself then you will need to get yourself a DA polisher and the MF correction kit. The Cutting discs are able to remove 3000 grit sanding marks. IMO i would combine D300 with a couple dots of M105. This combo allows for a longer working time with M105 while keeping the high level of cutting. You will need to inspect the work to unsure you remove all the sanding marks. After the sanding marks have been removed you will want to move to M205 on a foam polishing pad to remove any micro marring that will take place. After that you will want to seal your work with anything you choose.

Thanks for the info. I did not realize that the cutting discs(Orange) with M105 could only remove 3000 grit and higher sanding marks. I thought it could handle down to 2000 or so from the info I have been reading on this forum.