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Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

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  • Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

    So I got an Elantra GT last year and I'm starting to get obsessed with keeping it nice and clean. I neglected to keep it that way for the most part (because of Winter and a busy semester). Anywho, lately, all I'm doing is UQD and UQW (I've recently learned how to use them).

    I'll be cleaning the car on Wednesday with using new method and I wanted to know if I'm doing it right, as well as a few questions.

    So far, I have access to:
    Quik Interior Detailer (I'm not sure if this product works great. I don't see it working as good as it should)
    UQW
    UQD (which I also use for the glass.. I have Windex here too)
    Microfiber Mit <--- click for link
    Water Absorber <--- click for link
    Microfiber Towels <--- click for link
    Meguira's Clay Kit (hopefully find it by tomorrow, I can't seem to find it at Canadian Tire or Walmart)

    I don't have an actual wax yet, so I'll be doing that maybe next month. I have yet to find a store that will sell, so I might buy online. Anyways, I plan to do it this way:

    1) Wash the car (since I have a bunch of towels, I will try to use new towels per section, roughly 10?? then use the mit as a final touch. excessive?)
    2) Use the clay
    3) UQW
    4) UQD

    Now my question:

    1) I read that I should do some sort of pre-cleaning before waxing. Would UQD be fine?
    2) In between car washes, could I use UQD (as long as it's only fine dust) and then UQW 10 minutes later? I do UQW in coats of 1-3, is that excessive?
    3) Do you guys do interior (vacuum, wipe, etc.) first? It seems logical.
    4) Will the microfiber cloths I have safe to use for UQD/UQW? I know it's hard to tell from the photo, but just in case anyones experienced them.
    5) Is the mit good or should I stick with actual towels?
    6) Do you see the dirt when I open my hatch? pic url here. Do you guys clean that before washing the car? it makes sense to do that first, right? just water should be fine (or even UQD)? a quick wipe even?
    7) When is a good time for using Scratch-X? Before doing the waxing? After? For inbetween washes, do UQD first then Scratch-X? Or should I only do it after a real wash, if so, before waxing?

    Thanks! I might have some more questions in the near future.

    Also, how hard is it achieve a mirror-like finish? Do I need some expensive type of paint job or wax method (with machine) for that? Just out of curiosity. I like the idea of my car looking clean and good.

  • #2
    Re: Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

    So far, I have access to:
    Quik Interior Detailer (I'm not sure if this product works great. I don't see it working as good as it should)
    What are you trying to clean? It is only a mild cleaner/duster.

    1) Wash the car (since I have a bunch of towels, I will try to use new towels per section, roughly 10?? then use the mit as a final touch. excessive?)
    2) Use the clay
    3) UQW
    4) UQD
    What are you washing with?

    No need for a mitt if not using a bucket and water.

    Have you been able to see the Wash and Wax Anywhere, or similar products there like Optimum No Rinse, or Meguiars Rinseless Wash? Would be better for dealing with actual dirt.

    Now my question:

    1) I read that I should do some sort of pre-cleaning before waxing. Would UQD be fine?
    Depends what is needed. But something like a cleaner/wax followed by a wax is usually the good/fast way to do it, and keep it simple at first.

    2) In between car washes, could I use UQD (as long as it's only fine dust) and then UQW 10 minutes later? I do UQW in coats of 1-3, is that excessive?
    Yeah, a qd is for light dust. If going to use a lot though, UQD is probably the expensive way to go. Regular QD, Last Touch, Final Inspection are all good options. And just one coat of UQW really.

    3) Do you guys do interior (vacuum, wipe, etc.) first? It seems logical.
    While wax is drying / curing for me. Or another day....

    4) Will the microfiber cloths I have safe to use for UQD/UQW? I know it's hard to tell from the photo, but just in case anyones experienced them.
    Safe with UQD/UQW, yes. Safe for paint, hard to say.

    5) Is the mit good or should I stick with actual towels?
    Well, as mentioned, the mitt would be more for actual washing... but probably ok.

    6) Do you see the dirt when I open my hatch? pic url here. Do you guys clean that before washing the car? it makes sense to do that first, right? just water should be fine (or even UQD)? a quick wipe even?
    If washing with water, after while it is wet is a good time. If using spray products, doesn't matter really.

    7) When is a good time for using Scratch-X? Before doing the waxing? After? For inbetween washes, do UQD first then Scratch-X? Or should I only do it after a real wash, if so, before waxing?
    What would you be working on?

    Also, how hard is it achieve a mirror-like finish? Do I need some expensive type of paint job or wax method (with machine) for that? Just out of curiosity. I like the idea of my car looking clean and good.
    Depends what shape it is starting off in. But can get pretty good with a little bit of effort usually.
    2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

      Wow. Haha. Okay, let's see if I can give more details.

      I wash with a hose/bucket. I have a cheap "wash and wax soap" at the moment. As for interior, just trying to clean the dash and stuff like that.

      What did you mean safe for paint? As in, while washing the car? What would you use for washing the car? Do you use that with the soap and just rinse or do you use multiple towels?

      The Scratch-X would be for light blemishes. Although I have a new actual scratch. I actually had a hard time dealing with it. I was pretty bummed out about it. I'll try and upload a photo in this next week.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

        I wash with a hose/bucket. I have a cheap "wash and wax soap" at the moment.
        Usually, a good wash with a bucket would be 2 buckets with Grit Guards if possible, then a good soap, rinsing the mitt off after each panel. Then using some UQW while drying.

        And that would be better for handling more dirt. The ONR/Rinsless Wash type products can benefit from using a lot of towels, like one per panel or so, and are good for heavier dirt also.

        The qd types, just dust only.

        Just want to be doing things the safest way possible, because if something isnt providing enough lubrication, you can start to cause swirls.

        And then good drying towels, etc as well.

        As for interior, just trying to clean the dash and stuff like that.
        If you wanted a stronger cleaner, something like APC would be good if you can get it there. A gallon is fairly cheap, and can be used for about anything.

        And the QID isnt a dressing either, if you were thinking of more gloss maybe.

        What did you mean safe for paint? As in, while washing the car?
        Well, you want to be as gentle as possible while touching the paint to not cause swirls. So you want a mitt that isnt scratchy, good lubricating soap, good quality drying towels, and the good MF towels for qd'ing, removing products, etc.

        QD is safe for paint, but doesnt mean it can be applied with sandpaper.... I dont know those exact cloths, so dont want to say yes or no. They will be good for the interior, and possibly glass, dirty jobs, etc, so certainly good to have on hand either way.

        What would you use for washing the car? Do you use that with the soap and just rinse or do you use multiple towels?
        Well, for me with a bucket wash, I would use the two buckets, Grit Guards, MF wash mitt (plus an older MF mitt for under the sides), Gold Class soap (mixed correctly). If it is fairly clean, one side of the mitt per panel, then rinse. Dry most of the water off with a Water Magnet, then go around for a final dry with UQW and a second Water Magnet.

        The Scratch-X would be for light blemishes. Although I have a new actual scratch. I actually had a hard time dealing with it. I was pretty bummed out about it. I'll try and upload a photo in this next week.
        If you think you will be using it a bit, Ult. Compound is probably the better choice.

        You would want to do something like:

        1. Wash
        2. Clay as needed
        3. UC on the bad spots
        4. a cleaner/wax of some sort... ColorX, White Wax, Black Wax, etc...
        5. Wax - Ult. Wax, Nxt, Gold Class, etc
        2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

          Alright, so the Clay Kit I will be getting includes Quick Detailer (not Ultimate) and Cleaner Wax (http://en.meguiarscanada.ca/product/206). Cleaner Wax would be before my actual wax, correct?

          Should I invest on Ultimate Compound (to replace the Cleaner Wax)? Is it a superior product?

          Ps I've also read http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ifferent-waxes . At first, I understood it as "Pure Waxes" being much more superior than Polishers/Waxes. When I say superior, I mean it would have a better result if I use a pure wax for waxing and other products for polishing. However, I do not think that is the case anymore (not from experience, just assumption). Am I right?

          Also, how long should I take before applying the next product? As long as I dry it properly with a new cloth and maybe a couple of minutes, that should be fine?

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

            Alright, so the Clay Kit I will be getting includes Quick Detailer (not Ultimate) and Cleaner Wax (http://en.meguiarscanada.ca/product/206).
            Usually dont want UQD for claying.

            Cleaner Wax would be before my actual wax, correct?
            Yes, cleaner/wax then wax is a nice detail.
            Should I invest on Ultimate Compound (to replace the Cleaner Wax)? Is it a superior product?
            Well, it isnt better or worse, just completely different.

            The Cleaner/Wax is a mild cleaner to remove dirt from the pores of the paint, and leave some wax behind.

            The UC is a strong cleaner to remove imperfections like swirls, mild scratches, water spots, etc from the paint, as well as dirt.

            So just entirely different goals.

            Also, I was refering to UC instead of ScratchX....

            Ps I've also read http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ifferent-waxes . At first, I understood it as "Pure Waxes" being much more superior than Polishers/Waxes. When I say superior, I mean it would have a better result if I use a pure wax for waxing and other products for polishing. However, I do not think that is the case anymore (not from experience, just assumption). Am I right?
            Well, a product that just does one thing will tend to be better at that job that a product doing 2 or 3 other things as well.

            Products like the Ult. Wax are going to last longer and protect better than the Cleaner/Wax for instance, and some would say look better too. But the Ult. Wax will need the extra prep steps before hand (such as cleaning, polishing, or using a cleaner/wax). So there is a trade off.

            As you mention, newer products are trying to make that difference as small as possible, but I think it is still there.

            Also, how long should I take before applying the next product? As long as I dry it properly with a new cloth and maybe a couple of minutes, that should be fine?
            You can go right from wash, to clay, to Cleaner/Wax.

            The Cleaner/Wax would want to dry, remove, and then let sit at least 20 minutes would be nice.

            Then apply your regular wax, then dry, then remove.
            2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

              Last one (for now). For the longest time, I thought microfiber cloths would be good for washing, polishing, waxing. So far, that's what I got. I got one foam which came with the Ultimate Liquid Wax, which I plan to use.

              Should I stick with my MF cloths when I polish (Ultimate Polish)? So far, I wash my MF cloths, what should I do with the foam after? Would I benefit by getting a foam for my polish and stick the MF with washing? I also plan to use the Cleaner Wax using MF cloths.

              Anyways, so far, this is what I plan to do with I currently have.

              1. wash with soap (multiple towels to remove excess dirt, use my MF mit for one last wash)
              2. clay (UD + clay, wipe it off with the towel it came with. should i wipe after each big section, after each small section, or after whole car?)
              3. cleaner wax (came with the smooth clay kit. i plan to use MF towels, apply and then dry immediately)
              4. wait 10-20 minutes (depending on time)
              5. ultimate polish (will use MF towels. plan to apply then wipe immediately. i still have to google if there's some sort of tips on how to apply this. i plan to do a few coats, depending on the time. im not too sure how helpful it would be.)
              6. ultimate liquid wax (will use the foam it came with, wipe with the cloth it came with. will apply section at a time, wait 20 minutes before drying. like the polish, i still have to google on how to apply this properly. do i just dump it on the foam? i have yet to open it)

              Any thoughts? Ps are the foams reusable? is it something I can wash in a washer or just wash in the sink? or just keep it clean by putting it in a ziplock or something?

              THANK YOU

              edit: I'm still unsure when to use Scratch-X. I might skip that for now. Also, now I'm rethinking about buying the DA Power System. I keep reading that polishing by hand is too much work (might still try it this way first, can't really buy the DA Power System at the moment).

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

                For the longest time, I thought microfiber cloths would be good for washing, polishing, waxing. So far, that's what I got. I got one foam which came with the Ultimate Liquid Wax, which I plan to use.
                Ehh.... Some people do for applying products but not usually preferred. The MF covered foam applicators are also popular, but I really just like the bare foam the best.

                And then something with a longer knap, to help get the dirt away from the paint, is good when washing.

                And those style of MF towels arent the best for drying.

                The foam or foam covered applicators help keep you from using your fingers to apply products, and distribute pressure a bit better. You may have seen the recent thread where a fellow used ScratchX 2.0 and a towel, and it looks like the fingertips applied a lot of pressure, and the results werent good.

                Still need MF towels for removal of products, and lots of other things...

                Should I stick with my MF cloths when I polish (Ultimate Polish)? So far, I wash my MF cloths, what should I do with the foam after? Would I benefit by getting a foam for my polish and stick the MF with washing? I also plan to use the Cleaner Wax using MF cloths.
                I just soak the foam applicators in a bucket with soapy water for a while, then rinse.

                I like foam applicators best for applying everything on the paint.

                Anyways, so far, this is what I plan to do with I currently have.

                1. wash with soap (multiple towels to remove excess dirt, use my MF mit for one last wash)
                2. clay (UD + clay, wipe it off with the towel it came with. should i wipe after each big section, after each small section, or after whole car?)
                3. cleaner wax (came with the smooth clay kit. i plan to use MF towels, apply and then dry immediately)
                4. wait 10-20 minutes (depending on time)
                5. ultimate polish (will use MF towels. plan to apply then wipe immediately. i still have to google if there's some sort of tips on how to apply this. i plan to do a few coats, depending on the time. im not too sure how helpful it would be.)
                6. ultimate liquid wax (will use the foam it came with, wipe with the cloth it came with. will apply section at a time, wait 20 minutes before drying. like the polish, i still have to google on how to apply this properly. do i just dump it on the foam? i have yet to open it)
                1. Wash - I think your mitt would be the safer choice...
                2. Clay - Dry off each panel or so, dont want it to really dry, but not a big deal. If it is cool out, you can clay while the car is wet...
                3. No Ult. Polish if using the Cleaner/Wax.
                4. Cleaner/Wax - Apply, then let dry, then remove.
                5. Wait 20 minutes or so...
                6. Wax - Just apply a small bit to the applicator, dont want to apply this heavily, or it will streak. Some people have good luck if they apply to one panel, then remove from the panel right away, then move on.

                Or:

                1. Wash
                2. Clay
                3. Ult. Polish - Just 1 coat
                4. Wax
                5. Wax

                Ps are the foams reusable? is it something I can wash in a washer or just wash in the sink?
                I just do by hand, but others use the machine i think.

                or just keep it clean by putting it in a ziplock or something?
                Mine are in a drawer so they stay open to the air, and dont get moldy.

                edit: I'm still unsure when to use Scratch-X. I might skip that for now. Also, now I'm rethinking about buying the DA Power System. I keep reading that polishing by hand is too much work (might still try it this way first, can't really buy the DA Power System at the moment).
                Usually, not the best idea to worry about defect removal your first time detailing. And esp not if you may buy a machine in the near future. Just get things shined up for now, and get a feel for things this time.

                It is not that bad to apply a wax or polish by hand... but something that needs worked in, like to remove defects, can be very hard by hand.
                2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

                  Alright. I think I'm satisfied with what I did today, although I didn't have enough time and kinda rushed the polishing/waxing. I may redo the whole process in a few weeks, but this time, I might have the DA Power System. Polishing my hand is pretty hard imo. How many "swirls" do I do. Do I keep doing it until the polish can't really be seen anymore? So work it till it disappears (by applying to the same area)?

                  I think I have used too much Liquid Wax. I would put a dime size each time I moved to a different section (my section consists of 4 hands [i hope this makes sense]). Next time, should I just apply it with 2-3 swirls and keep moving until I can't see some sort of "wax" anymore? I didn't let it dry for that long.

                  I had the urge to use UQD/UQW after driving because I already saw dust. I guess let it cure for 12 hours?

                  Before my next wash (where I redo the whole process), I can get away with UQD every 1-2 days, correct? From what I recently read, following that with UQW would be too much.

                  Now another question, let's say I won't redo the process and the next time I wash, I should just:

                  1. wash
                  2. ultimate polish
                  3. UQW

                  That should be good till I have to reclay/rewax (Ultimate Liquid Wax) in 6 months? Or should I only Ultimate Polish after every 2-3 washes?

                  Thanks. I'll be compiling these questions once I'm done, hopefully others can benefit.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

                    Polishing my hand is pretty hard imo. How many "swirls" do I do. Do I keep doing it until the polish can't really be seen anymore? So work it till it disappears (by applying to the same area)?
                    If just doing light cleaning/polishing, it is kind of like waxing, and just wipe it around, work in a little, then remove.

                    Removing swirls is where you want to work it in longer, with more passion, and when it starts to disappear is when you should stop.

                    I think I have used too much Liquid Wax. I would put a dime size each time I moved to a different section (my section consists of 4 hands [i hope this makes sense]). Next time, should I just apply it with 2-3 swirls and keep moving until I can't see some sort of "wax" anymore? I didn't let it dry for that long.
                    Well, you want to work it a little in each direction to try to cover everywhere.

                    But once the pad it saturated, a dime size drop is probably good for a panel and then some. I like to do a few smaller drops, rather than try to make one big drop spread more.

                    I had the urge to use UQD/UQW after driving because I already saw dust. I guess let it cure for 12 hours?
                    Yeah, letting it sit is good.

                    Before my next wash (where I redo the whole process), I can get away with UQD every 1-2 days, correct? From what I recently read, following that with UQW would be too much.
                    UQD is ok for light dust if you want to.

                    UQD then UQW would be expensive...

                    Now another question, let's say I won't redo the process and the next time I wash, I should just:

                    1. wash
                    2. ultimate polish
                    3. UQW
                    No, the Ult. Polish will remove your base coat of wax.

                    You would want to Wash then UQW.

                    That should be good till I have to reclay/rewax (Ultimate Liquid Wax) in 6 months? Or should I only Ultimate Polish after every 2-3 washes?
                    Hard to set an exact time frame... but if you can wash/spray wax every week or so, should last a few months.

                    Then clay if needed, Ult. Polish, Ult. Wax.

                    Or looking at defect removal if wanted, etc...
                    2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

                      Thinking about the DA Power System, it seems it would be a hassle in terms of its design. Seems like something like this would be better, just unsure how good it would be (http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en).

                      I have read some people polish for 2-3 hours. Is that obsessiveness? Or would working very slow and/or having numerous coats make a difference? Maybe I have high standards (or fantasy), and although I am satisfied with what I see right now (which should be better in 12 hours, right), I still feel like it's not as great as I could have done. Maybe my technique needs improvement.

                      Also, I forgot to mention, I use some sort of drying material and I try my best not to have any streaks, etc. It shouldn't matter if I would be polishing, right? or even with UQW? So would air drying it be okay for next time? Just do remove big chunks of water and let the rest air dry? Because right now, I try my best to completely remove water using my drying material.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

                        Thinking about the DA Power System, it seems it would be a hassle in terms of its design. Seems like something like this would be better, just unsure how good it would be (http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en).
                        The DA Power System is actually very comfortable to use... the thing with the palm type polishers is that there isnt enough power/torque to really work in the products, and so wont be very good at removing defects.

                        The palm type could spread wax ok, but would be limited in what it can do.
                        I have read some people polish for 2-3 hours. Is that obsessiveness? Or would working very slow and/or having numerous coats make a difference? Maybe I have high standards (or fantasy), and although I am satisfied with what I see right now (which should be better in 12 hours, right), I still feel like it's not as great as I could have done. Maybe my technique needs improvement.
                        Well, I am sure you will get better at things the more times you do it. And any defects that are there will bring down the shine a bit.

                        Time depends on what needs done though. Even by machine, if a car were to be in bad shape, or difficult to work with, a full detail could take 10 hours or more...

                        But working by hand, for the polishing step alone... yeah 2-3 hours is pushing it. I do the cleaner/wax then wax by hand to keep the time down and just do a quick detail. Any serious work gets a machine....

                        Also, I forgot to mention, I use some sort of drying material and I try my best not to have any streaks, etc. It shouldn't matter if I would be polishing, right? or even with UQW? So would air drying it be okay for next time? Just do remove big chunks of water and let the rest air dry? Because right now, I try my best to completely remove water using my drying material.
                        Well, if claying/polishing right away, a little streak or two wont really hurt.

                        But as far as washing and just a spray wax, you want it to dry pretty well.

                        You tend to want at least some sort of towel or air blowing to dry. If you just allow the paint to air dry, and any water spots form and are allowed to stay on the surface, they can start to etch in.
                        2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

                          I made a mistake of discarding one of the clay bars from the clay kit. The next one, I plan to cut it up and just use the half. From what I read up, I could reuse the clay bar as long as it doesn't contain too much contamination (or dropped) and it's stored in the box/container it came with. Now my question is, once I've gone through all that, I could just use a different brand of clay so I don't have to rebuy the whole kit, and still use the QD for lubrication?

                          And to confirm, onlly Polish if you're going to Wax after, and only Wax if you're going to Polish after? So always use it together 2-3 times a year. The rest, pure wash + uqw?

                          The same logic applies with the Cleaner/Wax that the Clay Kit came with. Only use it if you're going to prepare for a new coat of Polish and Wax? I think I'll be getting the Ultimate Compound when that runs out. Although, I do have Scratch-X 2.0. From what I understand, I could use that on the entire vehicle as some sort of cleaner/wax and then apply Polish after. Correct?

                          Sorry for repeating questions. I like confirmation to make sure I understood what I've read properly.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

                            I made a mistake of discarding one of the clay bars from the clay kit. The next one, I plan to cut it up and just use the half. From what I read up, I could reuse the clay bar as long as it doesn't contain too much contamination (or dropped) and it's stored in the box/container it came with.
                            I prefer a zip-lock baggie with a squirt of QD.

                            Now my question is, once I've gone through all that, I could just use a different brand of clay so I don't have to rebuy the whole kit, and still use the QD for lubrication?
                            You'll probably run out of QD first... But yes, some brands sell the clay individually, and Meguiars sells larger jars of clay individually. And of course the QD is available separately.

                            And to confirm, onlly Polish if you're going to Wax after,
                            Yes...

                            and only Wax if you're going to Polish after?
                            What? Polish, then wax...

                            So always use it together 2-3 times a year. The rest, pure wash + uqw?
                            Yeah... 3-4 tends to be the usual recommendation. But if not in too harsh of an environment, the Ult. Wax, and then UW after washing seems to last a fairly long time.
                            The same logic applies with the Cleaner/Wax that the Clay Kit came with. Only use it if you're going to prepare for a new coat of Polish and Wax? I think I'll be getting the Ultimate Compound when that runs out.
                            What? A cleaner/wax (Cleaner/Wax, ColorX, White Wax, Black Wax, #66) can be used in a few ways. Some people will use them as their only step to shine the car up a little. Folks here will use it as a way to speed up a detail and still cover all the recommended steps.

                            However, you would not apply a cleaner/wax and then polish after. You want your details to look like this:

                            1. Wash
                            2. Clay if needed
                            3. Cleaner/Wax, or ColorX, etc
                            4. Wax

                            Or:

                            1. Wash
                            2. Clay if needed
                            3. Clean/Polish - Ult. Compound / ScratchX 2.0 for strong cleaning, Ult. Polish for mild cleaning/polishing. You may follow up the UC with the UP.
                            4. Wax
                            5. Wax

                            Although, I do have Scratch-X 2.0. From what I understand, I could use that on the entire vehicle as some sort of cleaner/wax and then apply Polish after.
                            See above... No inventing a new order of operations....

                            Remember that a cleaner/wax contains a paint cleaner, polishing oils, and wax. So you dont want to use it, and then go back with something that removes it....
                            2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Is My "Work Flow" Efficient?

                              Omg. I meant, if I want to Wax, I should polish first.

                              Basically, I was asking that if I want to apply a new coat of Polish + Wax, I should use Cleaner/Wax first to remove the old oils/etc. from the previous Polish + Wax.

                              I think the Cleaner/Wax (the one that the Clay Kit came with) is throwing me off, and I keep misunderstanding its purpose.

                              Comment

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