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Pad Priming

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  • Pad Priming

    My G110v2 just came and I'm on another level of excitement! I also got some of the 2.0 pads. I was reading over the packaging and it says to prime them with some M34. Is this necessary? Would you want to prime a new pad for each step: Ult Compound, Ult Polish, and Wax? It seems to me that a "wet" pad would not be a good idea when applying wax. I've never used UC or UP before so I'm not sure about pad prep as far as they go, so maybe priming pads for them is correct. Looking forward to some good advice! Thanks in advance! I can't wait to go sweat! Is that wierd...

  • #2
    Re: Pad Priming

    Well, it is just that the fresh dry pad absorbs more product, so you dont start off working as well.

    Some folks will use some QD, etc with just a slight mist.

    Others will smear a little of the product all of the face right away.

    Or others just wont worry about it.
    2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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    • #3
      Re: Pad Priming

      A light priming of a foam pad with M34 is a very common practice with rotary use. With a DA it's not only much less necessary, but it's a rare case that anyone actually does it. Don't give it a second thought - just put that "X" of UC onto the face of the W8207 yellow polishing pad, put the pad firmly against the paint, switch the buffer on at speed setting 5, and get your test spot done.
      Michael Stoops
      Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

      Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

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      • #4
        I've always completely covered the face. My pad gets awfully "squishy" half way through a detail though. Ill have to try the "X". So if a part of the pad doesn't have a liquid on it, it is still ok to buff with?

        Over time, should the face of the pad become completely covered?
        Always searching for the best.... Keep it country!
        ---------
        SkiDoo Snowmobiles!

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        • #5
          Re: Pad Priming

          I usually put a wild looking "6" or "9" on my 7" pads....on my 3" or 4" pads i usually put a "0"....unless an "X" is better?
          Sometimes I just apply a wad of product and smear it around til it's evenly spread on the entire face of the pad.
          "STRIFE" aka Phil
          2005 Infiniti G35 Coupe (IP/ aka White) the Toy
          2011 Subaru Impreza (SWP/ aka White) the DD
          2017 Subaru Forester (CWP/ aka White) Wifey's

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          • #6
            Re: Pad Priming

            We're talking about two different kinds of "priming" here, guys.

            The OP asked about the long standing practice of "priming" a pad by spraying the face of the pad with a bit of M34 Final Inspection or similar prior to putting it on the paint for the first time. This is a common practice when using a rotary buffer, but extremely rare when using a DA.

            The practice of "priming" by fully coating the face of the pad with your compound (AKA, the Kevin Brown - or KBM - Method) is something very different. This is the processes we recommend for "priming" the microfiber cutting disc in our DA Microfiber Correction System, in order to fully cover the microfiber filaments with compound. In that system you then apply just a couple of pea sized drops of product for each section you work. When using foam pads you can do the same, especially when working with M105, M205 or even Ultimate Compound. The idea is to get a very small amount of product dispersed throughout the face of the pad (any excess removed), followed by a few small drops of product.


            Originally posted by ChevyNick View Post
            I've always completely covered the face. My pad gets awfully "squishy" half way through a detail though. Ill have to try the "X". So if a part of the pad doesn't have a liquid on it, it is still ok to buff with?

            Over time, should the face of the pad become completely covered?
            If your pad is getting really "squishy" half way through a project we would suggest swapping to a fresh pad at that point. What's happening is that you're starting to saturate the pad with product and that can cause diminished results. Also, you should be cleaning your pad on the fly by pressing it firmly against a clean terry cloth towel and switching the tool on. This will force excess product out of the pad and into the towel, and also remove some of the dried product that starts to accumulate on the edge of the pad. Yes, the entire face of the pad will become covered with product over time, which is a good thing. But saturating the pad is not.

            Originally posted by STRIFE View Post
            I usually put a wild looking "6" or "9" on my 7" pads....on my 3" or 4" pads i usually put a "0"....unless an "X" is better?
            Sometimes I just apply a wad of product and smear it around til it's evenly spread on the entire face of the pad.
            Whatever gets the product on the pad! It really doesn't matter as long as you've got enough product on the pad, but not so much that you're over using it.
            Michael Stoops
            Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

            Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

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