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Anyone have experience using glazes?

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  • Lasthope05
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    Originally posted by Spike View Post
    Wow! That paint looks great! I probably wasn't rubbing it in long enough, but I would say for 1 min in a 2x2 ft area. I just used a foam applicator pad. I guess I'm gonna have to break out the flex I have and learn how to use it, then tackle this job...
    You are working with too big of an area. If you were doing it by hand you need to stick to a 1sq ft or small area and really work the polish in. Larger working areas like 2x2 ft areas are for machine application.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tuck91
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    Originally posted by Spike View Post
    Wow! That paint looks great! I probably wasn't rubbing it in long enough, but I would say for 1 min in a 2x2 ft area. I just used a foam applicator pad. I guess I'm gonna have to break out the flex I have and learn how to use it, then tackle this job...
    I used a first generation G110 with Ultimate Compound for the example above.

    You might be able to rub the car out by hand, maybe not, you will not know for sure until you do another test spot by hand or a test spot by DA.

    If it is in fact SS paint,

    then the color of the paint will be on your pad:

    Leave a comment:


  • Spike
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    Originally posted by Tuck91 View Post
    When you were using Ultimate Compound by hand,

    What did you use to apply it with?
    How long did you work it into the finish?


    Ultimate Compound can remove very heavy oxidation:



    Wow! That paint looks great! I probably wasn't rubbing it in long enough, but I would say for 1 min in a 2x2 ft area. I just used a foam applicator pad. I guess I'm gonna have to break out the flex I have and learn how to use it, then tackle this job...

    Leave a comment:


  • Tuck91
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    When you were using Ultimate Compound by hand,

    What did you use to apply it with?
    How long did you work it into the finish?


    Ultimate Compound can remove very heavy oxidation:



    Leave a comment:


  • akimel
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    Spike, I think what Nick is trying to tell you is that if the cloudiness you are seeing in the paint is due to oxidation (or worse), then a glaze ain't going to help you. You need to polish the car, i.e., you need to remove the oxidation, contamination, and paint defects by the mechanical application of an abrasive polish.

    If hand application of Ultimate Compound isn't working for you, that means that you need to break out your Flex and start learning how to use that puppy.

    Don't expect an oil-based glaze to last very long, even when protected by a wax or sealant. The extra gloss that a glaze provides is temporary and short-lived. You need, rather, to concentrate your efforts on making the paint look as good as possible through polishing. The little extra gloss that a glaze will give you is simply a bonus.

    Hand polishing is hard, hard work and does not produce the results that you can get from using your Flex. Don't be afraid of it. Read up all you can on using a DA. Watch the videos. And then give it a try. Check out the links in this list: Internet Resources for Detailing Newbs.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spike
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    Originally posted by Tuck91 View Post
    Not sure your using Ultimate Compound correctly. Are you just wiping it on and then wiping it off? It should be tackling the oxidation without a problem since it is way more aggressive than M80 Speed Glaze.

    I have worked on a few SS paint jobs and used Ultimate Compound to remove the oxidaton and followed up with M80 Speed Glaze, then I sealed the paint with M20.
    I may not have been using it correctly, but when I was trying it by hand it just didn't seem to make that much of a difference in the finish. I'll probably need to use my flex on the car, but I'm still a newbie, and I want to practice on my own car 1st, then do a friends car. I guess I'm just trying to find a way to make the car look better without machine polishing it so I don't burn the paint...

    Leave a comment:


  • Tuck91
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    Originally posted by Spike View Post
    Thanks everyone! I hope to try a test spot soon to see how the M80 does. I have tried Megs UC and other swirl/oxidation removers before, but those products don't seem to work because they don't have the nourishing oils in them. Its like I'll polish a panel, and it looks good wet, but when it dries the polish just gets sucked back into the paint, and I still have the cloudy paint underneath it. I got some great advice from Mike Phillips on another forum (AG), and I have a plan of attack for the car. But the one thing that we did not discuss was something that was just recently brought up by another post on AG, and that was the fact that the glaze would probably wash off the car at the next car wash. I just want to be sure that I can use M26 or M16 to seal in the glaze so it won't wash off like I've heard can happen...

    Not sure your using Ultimate Compound correctly. Are you just wiping it on and then wiping it off? It should be tackling the oxidation without a problem since it is way more aggressive than M80 Speed Glaze.

    I have worked on a few SS paint jobs and used Ultimate Compound to remove the oxidaton and followed up with M80 Speed Glaze, then I sealed the paint with M20.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tuck91
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    If you are working by hand then I would use ColorX or M06 Cleaner Wax, either of these two products will work well by hand to remove the oxidation and will be easier to use by hand than M80 Speed Glaze.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spike
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    Thanks everyone! I hope to try a test spot soon to see how the M80 does. I have tried Megs UC and other swirl/oxidation removers before, but those products don't seem to work because they don't have the nourishing oils in them. Its like I'll polish a panel, and it looks good wet, but when it dries the polish just gets sucked back into the paint, and I still have the cloudy paint underneath it. I got some great advice from Mike Phillips on another forum (AG), and I have a plan of attack for the car. But the one thing that we did not discuss was something that was just recently brought up by another post on AG, and that was the fact that the glaze would probably wash off the car at the next car wash. I just want to be sure that I can use M26 or M16 to seal in the glaze so it won't wash off like I've heard can happen...

    Leave a comment:


  • Lasthope05
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    Just make sure you thoroughly work M80 into the paint. It contains diminishing abrasive to cut through scratches, swirls, and oxidation, and at the same time has the same TS oils as the M07/M03 glazes.

    The gloss you get is all in the prep work. Making sure you thoroughly clay and polish with M80. I am one who believes that glazes give no visual difference on a perfectly prepped panel and that waxing over a glaze does not necessarily "lock" it in. When you remove the oxidation with M80 the wax will help to slowdown the degradation/oxidation of the paint by adding an additional UV barrier.

    Leave a comment:


  • akimel
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    Before even thinking about applying a glaze (pure polish), you need to first clay the paint and then polish the paint surface and remove the oxidation. As Searle has suggested, SwirlX would be a good paint cleaner with which to begin. I assume you are working by hand, yes? If yes, SwirlX would be a better and more effective product for you than M80.

    Do a TEST SPOT and see what difference the SwirlX has made. If it's looking good, then polish out the rest of the car, section by section. Be sure to wipe off the polish immediately. If the Test Spot does not reveal significant improvement, either go over the area again with SwirlX or step up to Ultimate Compound. Do not polish the rest of the car until you are satisfied with the results of the Test Spot.

    After you have polished the car, then you want to apply the glaze. Meguiar's pure polishes (glazes) include: Deep Crystal Polish, M07, and M05. Take your pick. You can usually find DCP and #7 at the local auto store. Follow the directions. Work section by section. Remove the glaze immediately. Do not allow it to dry on the paint.

    After you have finished glazing the paint, apply two coats of your favorite wax/sealant. M26 would be fine.

    Have fun!

    Cheers,
    Al

    Leave a comment:


  • searle
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    Originally posted by Spike View Post
    Thanks for the info. I appreciate learning more about glazes. I do intend to use the speed glaze, then M16 for more durability. But the main question I have is, will all of the gloss that the glaze imparts to the paint be washed off when my friend washes his car next? I have heard that this can happen, but I'm hoping it will not. I was hoping that the M16 would seal up the surface and not cause the gloss imparted by the glaze to be washed off. Any thoughts?
    Yes, you are mostly correct. Glaze by itself washes of with any wash or rain. But, when sealed by a good wax or sealant (M16 or NXT2) it is "underneath" the wax and remains. you can wash the car and the glaze will still be under the wax. initially...

    If you re-wax fairly often, say every 1-2 months, there should always be wax protecting the glaze. Especially if you UQW to top-up the wax after your weekly wash. If you let things go to where the wax is mostly gone, then so is the glaze, and it is time to paintclean away any remaining wax and re-apply the glaze then wax.

    Most folks re-detail their car (wash +clay +cleaner +glaze +wax) every spring, and most also re-detail every fall.

    Does all that make sense?

    Leave a comment:


  • SVT Lightning
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    Being that #80 is a cleaner/polish it should remove the oxidation and defects, not hide them. It is rich in polishing oils too. Applying the #26 on top would seal in the oils so they will not wash away. #80 is rated a 4 on the cut scale so it will remove defects with the right technique...not just mask them like some PURE polishes will do.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spike
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    Originally posted by searle View Post
    Continued ...

    Many folks believe that M16 is the most durable of the Meguiars Carnuba waxes. Meguiars says that of all their waxes that NXT2 (or #21) sealant offers the most protection.

    SpeedGlaze is like a professional version of SwirlX, it is a paintCleaner and has polish in it, so it also combines the clean+glaze steps into one (same as SwirlX). You *could* follow with a stand-alone glaze step, but that is probably wasteful (wont hurt, just unlikely to provide additional help).

    I think that covers all your question?
    Thanks for the info. I appreciate learning more about glazes. I do intend to use the speed glaze, then M16 for more durability. But the main question I have is, will all of the gloss that the glaze imparts to the paint be washed off when my friend washes his car next? I have heard that this can happen, but I'm hoping it will not. I was hoping that the M16 would seal up the surface and not cause the gloss imparted by the glaze to be washed off. Any thoughts?

    Leave a comment:


  • searle
    replied
    Re: Anyone have experience using glazes?

    Continued ...

    Many folks believe that M16 is the most durable of the Meguiars Carnuba waxes. Meguiars says that of all their waxes that NXT2 (or #21) sealant offers the most protection.

    SpeedGlaze is like a professional version of SwirlX, it is a paintCleaner and has polish in it, so it also combines the clean+glaze steps into one (same as SwirlX). You *could* follow with a stand-alone glaze step, but that is probably wasteful (wont hurt, just unlikely to provide additional help).

    I think that covers all your question?

    Leave a comment:

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