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claying on wet vs. dry car

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  • FinalTouchDetail
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    If you wont get water spots, just leave the car wet. No need to dry the car off twice and waste your time.

    I've never dried a car off before claybarring, but don't ever assume the water will lubricate the surface. Always use an abundance of clay lube.

    Leave a comment:


  • b2bomber
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    i use the sheeting method then clay, hence, you could say I don't dry the car before claying, BUT it's not soaking.

    Leave a comment:


  • Murr1525
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    1. Yes, ColorX with a foam applicator.

    2. Have you seen any of the Supreme Shine towels at all? Even if you buy other brands, you want those kind, that have a bit of a nap to them like terry does. Or like the Vroom ones at Target in the gray/white 5 pack. Not like the real smooth glass kind.

    Leave a comment:


  • mcsniper703
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    Originally posted by Michael Stoops View Post
    Bri, if the car is badly contaminated then it can certainly take longer, but for "average" contamination (whatever that means) claying shouldn't take long at all. If you're staying on top of it and doing it as needed rather than waiting for it to become a real problem, claying is a quick and easy process.
    Yes I usually clay the car 2 to 3 times per month with but I limited the clay to only 4 times and throw away. Other question, If I apply Color X with applicator pad. Do I remove it with regular microfiber or polish microfiber or detailing microfiber? Then I want to top it off with NXT 2.0 wax. There were so many debate about microfiber towels. thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael Stoops
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    Originally posted by Bri View Post
    Hi Mike,

    20 minutes on a compact car??? How do you do it?!?! Claying takes a long time!
    Bri, if the car is badly contaminated then it can certainly take longer, but for "average" contamination (whatever that means) claying shouldn't take long at all. If you're staying on top of it and doing it as needed rather than waiting for it to become a real problem, claying is a quick and easy process.

    Leave a comment:


  • Marc08EX
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    Originally posted by Michael Stoops View Post
    Washing and drying first simply prevents the formation of water spots, which may or may not be an issue depending on how hard your water is. Also, since you're claying anyway you may not see very fresh water spots as being an issue, again, depending on your water.

    As a "best practices" case, however, a clean and dry car is recommended.

    Speed3, you really don't like claying? It shouldn't take you long at all on your car - it's not that big, you maintain it very well. 20 minutes is all it should take under "normal" circumstances to fully clay a 3, or similar sized car.
    Hi Mike,

    20 minutes on a compact car??? How do you do it?!?! Claying takes a long time!

    Leave a comment:


  • mis3
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    Originally posted by mcsniper703 View Post
    I am curious what do I apply and swipe off the Color X and Wax NXT 2.0 liquid on the black car? Meguiar applicator pads for applying, Microfiber towel is best for removal? Thanks
    Yes, this is what I do. I always use pads to apply products then MF to remove. Lately I have been using the EVEN-COAT MICROFIBER APPLICATOR PADS.

    Leave a comment:


  • mcsniper703
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    I am curious what do I apply and swipe off the Color X and Wax NXT 2.0 liquid on the black car? Meguiar applicator pads for applying, Microfiber towel is best for removal? Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • mis3
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    My car is well-maintained and super smooth and I clay only once a year after winter. This is the only time when I perform the whole detailing cycle (Clay-Clean-Polish-Wax-Wax).

    I wash the car, bring the car indoor and clay without drying. I lift the hood and trunk so the excess water can slide off and start with the vertical surfaces first. It usually take 20-30 minutes for the whole care and this includes glass and lights.

    Then I will wipe down the car with a MF and proceed with DC-1/2. I am getting lazy now so I will replace Clean/Polish by SwirlX this year.

    Also, this is the only time I will apply 2 coats of wax with proper cure time. All other times I would apply only one coat (as per my other thread: Why 2nd Coat.)

    Leave a comment:


  • kjchen69
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    got it, thank you

    K.J

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael Stoops
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    Just clay as needed. Depending on how well you maintain the finish, and what the car is exposed to, you may need to clay again in two months, or you may not need to clay again for two years. Exposure is everything, and all you can do is evaluate every time you wash and dry the car. When the paint starts to feel rough to the touch again, clay it.

    Leave a comment:


  • kjchen69
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    I know there are a lot about claying threads but I don't think these have been put together before, so here's my question:
    one said you only need to clay twice a year, one said clay as much as you need! I know it's depends on how bad the car's surface is but still, should I stick with twice a year or just clay it when feel neccessary? thank you!

    K.J

    Leave a comment:


  • Michael Stoops
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    Originally posted by mcsniper703 View Post
    Curious, I also known that claying the car with gray bar, when I use to lube the surface on black car, the surface show clay bar making marking on black surface which can be remove by microfiber but it slightly getting harder, is it because the clay bar is worn out? It not been 1 month yet since brand new clay bar. I have problem by using Meguiar quik detailer, I ran out the whole bottle of quik detailer when claying the car. I am wondering what you suggest water mixed with quik detailer in other bottle by what ratio is advised safe for surface and claying? I also am wondering if I use Menzerna products for hand polishing manually is okay? I do not have buffering machine. Thanks.
    If the clay is leaving some residue behind on the paint they you're either not using enough lube, you're pressing down on the clay, or a combination of the two. The are you're working on needs to be quite wet with lube, and you don't need any more pressure than what is required to keep from dropping the clay. Just glide it over the surface, you don't need to press down on the clay firmly (nor should you). Let the clay do the work.

    Quik Detailer is the best thing to use as a lubricant, but in a pinch you could use a few drops of car wash soap mixed into a spray bottle of plain water. This may shorten the life of the clay, however, just so you know.

    As for using Menzerna products by hand - as long as the product you're using is rated by the manufacturer as safe and effective for use via hand application, you'll be fine.

    Leave a comment:


  • mcsniper703
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    Originally posted by Murr1525 View Post
    Whoops, I was thinking you meant the blue clay already (200g bar), not the clay kit (100g). But can still get a year or so per box. I break each of the 2 bars in half to use for lighlt claying. Will probably need more QD of course.



    Etching is like swirls and scratches, so all the articles/posts for those would apply. I would look into SwirlX and the smooth foam applicators as a starting point.
    Curious, I also known that claying the car with gray bar, when I use to lube the surface on black car, the surface show clay bar making marking on black surface which can be remove by microfiber but it slightly getting harder, is it because the clay bar is worn out? It not been 1 month yet since brand new clay bar. I have problem by using Meguiar quik detailer, I ran out the whole bottle of quik detailer when claying the car. I am wondering what you suggest water mixed with quik detailer in other bottle by what ratio is advised safe for surface and claying? I also am wondering if I use Menzerna products for hand polishing manually is okay? I do not have buffering machine. Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Murr1525
    replied
    Re: claying on wet vs. dry car

    I bought a Meguiar clay bar kit, it come with microfiber towel, 2 clay bar (grey), one bottle of detailer stray that came with cleaner wax in small sample bottle.
    Whoops, I was thinking you meant the blue clay already (200g bar), not the clay kit (100g). But can still get a year or so per box. I break each of the 2 bars in half to use for lighlt claying. Will probably need more QD of course.

    If the water spot is etched, how do I remove it? Would blue clay bar remove etched? What you recommend products to yield best result of paint to gloss shine? My car paint is black color. Thanks for your great advice!
    Etching is like swirls and scratches, so all the articles/posts for those would apply. I would look into SwirlX and the smooth foam applicators as a starting point.

    Leave a comment:

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