Difference in "working" DAT vs SMAT cleaners

[searle]

With each of the cleaners, you work them for awhile, and at some point you need to stop and remove that product and then possibly freshly reapply/rework (if the results are not enough the first time).

Do you have any general guidelines for each type to help tell when "enough" productive time has passed? And, are there different guidelines for the DAT (diminishing) cleaners vs the new SMAT (micro-abrasive) cleaners? I have always just done what feels right, with no real guideline or test.

I am mostly interested in guidelines for hand application and DAOrbitor application, but am sure others would be interested for rotary as well.

[ClearlyCoated]

Re: Difference in "working" DAT vs SMAT cleaners

All things being equal, until the defect is removed. Simplistic, but true.

If the swirls are light, 4-6 crosshatch passes with a finishing pad will probably do the job. 6-8 with a polishing pad for moderate to medium swirling. After that, stopping and inspecting your results will probably become necessary to determine if more passes, different pads, different polishes, higher speed, etc are needed.

Unfortunately, there's no hard and fast rule for the formula. Paint hardness, paint temperature, polishing technique, pad condition, chemicals used, and even humidity in the air are just some of the variables that can affect how much effort is required to remove a given paint defect. DAT polishes can only be worked for so long before they completely break down and new polish is required. SMAT polishes can let you have at it all day.

[searle]

Re: Difference in "working" DAT vs SMAT cleaners

All things being equal, until the defect is removed. Simplistic, but true.

If the swirls are light, 4-6 crosshatch passes with a finishing pad will probably do the job. 6-8 with a polishing pad for moderate to medium swirling. After that, stopping and inspecting your results will probably become necessary to determine if more passes, different pads, different polishes, higher speed, etc are needed.

Unfortunately, there's no hard and fast rule for the formula. Paint hardness, paint temperature, polishing technique, pad condition, chemicals used, and even humidity in the air are just some of the variables that can affect how much effort is required to remove a given paint defect. DAT polishes can only be worked for so long before they completely break down and new polish is required. SMAT polishes can let you have at it all day.

Understood. I was not so much looking for how to tell when the defect was removed, but rather how to tell when the usefullness of the current cleaner application has reached its end, and hence it needs to be wiped off and a new application done to continue the removal process.

In other words, is there some test or guideline I can use to tell when the current cleaner application has given-its-all and I am mostly wasting my time unless I remove and re-apply fresh cleaner?
- and if there is something, is it different for DAT vs SMAT cleaners...

[Murr1525]

Re: Difference in "working" DAT vs SMAT cleaners

Tips for removing swirls by hand with SMA Technology

[yalerd]

Re: Difference in "working" DAT vs SMAT cleaners

You can work a product but the limit of it is when you know it's about to become dry, and it's not recommended.

This is the point when you wipe off and re-apply product to the pad and continue working.

Time frame, there isn't any exact number since there are a lot of factors like speed/pressure/temperature/humidity and so on.

[searle]

Re: Difference in "working" DAT vs SMAT cleaners

You can work a product but the limit of it is when you know it's about to become dry, and it's not recommended.

This is the point when you wipe off and re-apply product to the pad and continue working.

Time frame, there isn't any exact number since there are a lot of factors like speed/pressure/temperature/humidity and so on.

Thanks, that is exactly what I was looking for (and essentially what I have been doing). Is this the same for both DAT and SMAT cleaners? (I assume so).

[Murr1525]

Re: Difference in "working" DAT vs SMAT cleaners

Roughly the same, but a DAT product you want to break down also, or else the 'bigger abrasives' that are left still may leave marks.

SMAT should be mark free from the start, with just the imperfection going away.

[searle]

Re: Difference in "working" DAT vs SMAT cleaners

Roughly the same, but a DAT product you want to break down also, or else the 'bigger abrasives' that are left still may leave marks...

Yup, but that is what I was sort-of asking. How does one tell the DAT has finished breaking down. I assume using the previous guideline that just before it becomes dry.

[Murr1525]

Re: Difference in "working" DAT vs SMAT cleaners

Yup, but that is what I was sort-of asking. How does one tell the DAT has finished breaking down. I assume using the previous guideline that just before it becomes dry.

Yeah, pretty much.

I mean, the milder products there isnt much to break down anyway... If #9 or #80 are leaving marks on your paint, there is probably something else wrong.