M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

[Michael Stoops]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

Is there any Professional Products that has the same cutting ability like #105 but quite safe to use (can be use both for single step paint and non-single step paint)?

Not sure what you mean by safer? #105 is fine for SS and Clear Coat paint.

Like Mat says, M105 is safe on both paint types. But..... if you've got badly dried out paint it may not play well with it, no matter if it's single stage or base/clear. Have you had an issue in the past, or currently, that we might be able to help with?

[Murr1525]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

Not sure what you mean by safer? #105 is fine for SS and Clear Coat paint.

[Rafael Rakyan]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

Is there any Professional Products that has the same cutting ability like #105 but quite safe to use (can be use both for single step paint and non-single step paint)?

[Michael Stoops]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

You could try SwirlX or M80 Speed Glaze as a follow up. But I prefer M205 as a follow up.

It all depends on your car, there is not going to be one certain liquid that is guranteed to work. You have to do some test spots to dial in a sucessfull process.

Took the words right out of our mouths!! Perfect, and spot on.

[Tuck91]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

Similar question, is there a more affordable replacement for M205 that can be used after UC or M105?

You could try SwirlX or M80 Speed Glaze as a follow up. But I prefer M205 as a follow up.

It all depends on your car, there is not going to be one certain liquid that is guranteed to work. You have to do some test spots to dial in a sucessfull process.

[agp423]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

Similar question, is there a more affordable replacement for M205 that can be used after UC or M105?

[Michael Stoops]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

I applied UC by foam pad usually, and the swirls would still be present after five minutes of rubbing it in and drawing circles on the paint. So I should try UC with DA first before I buy M105 or 205?

Absolutely. Staying with the same liquid, in this case Ultimate Compound, but changing to not only a D/A for application, but the yellow polishing pad as well, will give you a big jump up in total cut. Read through this article and you'll see what we mean.

[Tuck91]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

I applied UC by foam pad usually, and the swirls would still be present after five minutes of rubbing it in and drawing circles on the paint. So I should try UC with DA first before I buy M105 or 205?

Give Ultimate Compound a try before buying M105. You could still use M205 afterwards in case Ultimate Compound does not finish out LSP ready.

[agp423]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

I applied UC by foam pad usually, and the swirls would still be present after five minutes of rubbing it in and drawing circles on the paint. So I should try UC with DA first before I buy M105 or 205?

[Michael Stoops]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

I tried using UC by hand on some light swirls, and it did nothing... Which is why I'm buying a DA from a fellow member here so I can get rid of them.

What I'm asking is that for removing scratches and swirls, what's the difference between using 105, 85, or 95?

For removing light scratches and swirls, all three of those are probably overkill. People used to get great results on all sorts of paint finishes using a D/A and M80 or M83. Ultimate Compound is stronger than either of those.

M105 was developed for use with a rotary buffer and a wool pad to pull out 1000 grit sanding marks. Our cut scale, which used to go to 10 had to be revised upward to 12 to accommodate this new product. For typical swirl removal, it is usually overkill. M95 is equal in cut but with a slightly different formulation, and it is recommended for rotary use only. M85 used to be the heaviest cutting compound we made, prior to M105. It is a very potent, diminishing abrasive product that should ONLY be used with a rotary buffer.

Give Ultimate Compound a try on the D/A. Run the tool at speed 5 and use a fair amount of pressure on the pad - enough to deform the pad pretty well, but not enough to stop it from rotating. Use a yellow foam polishing pad with UC, and work in small areas at a time, generally about the size of a microfiber towel. Overlap your passes by about 50%, and move the pad very slowly over the paint. If you work in overlapping up and down strokes, then cover the area in side to side strokes, then repeat both sets of directions, you should be ready to wipe off the residue. Always do one area first and then check your progress in strong, direct lighting.

If we are able to correct all kinds of defects on a wide variety of paint systems using this product/pad/tool combination, we know you can too.

[Markus Kleis]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

I tried using UC by hand on some light swirls, and it did nothing... Which is why I'm buying a DA from a fellow member here so I can get rid of them.

What I'm asking is that for removing scratches and swirls, what's the difference between using 105, 85, or 95?

Assuming you used the UC correctly, then M105 is your next step. That said, as Tuck mentioned, we must first determine your method of application.

Can you outline in detail your process for removing swirls?

[Tuck91]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

I tried using UC by hand on some light swirls, and it did nothing... Which is why I'm buying a DA from a fellow member here so I can get rid of them.

What I'm asking is that for removing scratches and swirls, what's the difference between using 105, 85, or 95?

How were you applying the Ultimate Compound? Did you just wipe it on and off, or did you actually work it into the finish?

M85 and M95 are for rotary use only. M105 can be used with a dual action polisher.

[agp423]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

Honestly, for light swirls, etc you should be just fine with Ultimate Compound. Look through any of the threads in Pictures from Saturday Classes and you'll see all sorts of cars, almost always black, that show clear test spots when using UC. That is the only product we use for defect correction in these classes, and we do a test spot both by hand and with the G110v2. Most of the time we remove 90% of the defects by hand - the G110v2 gets virtually everything, and it does it much faster and with a lot less sweat!

I tried using UC by hand on some light swirls, and it did nothing... Which is why I'm buying a DA from a fellow member here so I can get rid of them.

What I'm asking is that for removing scratches and swirls, what's the difference between using 105, 85, or 95?

[ClearlyCoated]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

Clearly Coated, In your first post did you mean swirlX, ScratachX and UC or was the 2nd SwirlX a mistake or do they make two formulas of SwirlX ?
Thanks for the help

No, there's a period behind the first SwirlX to end that sentence. The second SwirlX starts off a new sentence stating that all 3 products I mentioned were SMAT products.

However, ScratchX 2.0 is another SMAT product and it's cut falls between SwirlX and UC.

ScratchX 2.0 is not a bad edition to have in your lineup, but personally, it is one that I use the least. Usually if SwirlX doesn't clean up my swirls, I jump right to UC.

The original ScratchX (also called ScratchX 1.0) has a very mild cut, even less than SwirlX, and uses diminishing abrasives.

[Larry A]

Re: M105 vs M85 vs M95 vs UC

Ive used UC with a rotary and wool pad an it worked great that way too.