Swirl X applied by hand...

[RGP]

Hi All, (Thanks for reading this)


I've read sundry posts and threads regarding a few people's limited success while using Swirl X applied manually to remove light swirling.

I have the very slightest tiny, tiny scratches here and there in my Mazda paint; way less than the thickness or depth of a human hair. Frankly, they're barely visible except when looked for in the brightest of sun, and then only to a crazy like myself. It's not really even your typical swirling, just an occasional short line here and there.

I had planned on polishing the recommended 12" square area with Swirl X and a very vigorous and protracted application with a Meguiar's yellow sponge applicator.

I'm questioning whether Swirl X is perhaps too fine to yield the desired results unless using power equipment, and am therefore wondering if Scratch X 2.0 will get me to the same place regarding swirl removal and gloss level, but with less frustration and exhaustion?

I'd also really appreciate your experiences regarding the gloss level that can be obtained by, on one hand with Scratch X 2.0 and on the other, via Swirl X.

Perhaps phrased differently, if I initially use Scratch X 2.0, will I always have to follow up with Swirl X to achieve the highest gloss level before I, as my last step, apply my NXT 2.0?

Thanks a million for any and all input, my fellow "crazies".

[akimel]

Re: Swirl X applied by hand...

Why not do a TEST SPOT with SwirlX first and see how it works? If it doesn't effect the level of correction desired, then you can always try ScratchX 2.0 or Ultimate Compound. After all, we are only talking about test spots. No one can tell you in advance which polish will work best on the particular paint system of your particular vehicle.

Personally, I'd skip the ScratchX and go directly to UC. UC may or may not leave the paint LSP-ready, but it will definitely do a better job on your swirls than ScratchX.

[Murr1525]

Re: Swirl X applied by hand...

Definately test spot with SwirLX first.

It will be your general cleaner in the future anyway, so may as well try it. Just work it in with a little more passion to remove swirls, and work it in more gently for milder cleaning.

[RGP]

Re: Swirl X applied by hand...

Regardless of which I use, will I have to use Swirl X anyway to bring it back to it's highest gloss, or will manually buffing with Scratch X bring it back to the same level of gloss and flawless finish by itself without having to bother with the Swirl X?

[Murr1525]

Re: Swirl X applied by hand...

Well, the best answer is maybe.

ScratchX 2.0 and UC will leave many paints pretty darn flawless if used properly. But, there are some paints that still need followed up by something milder.

ScratchX 2.0 being milder than UC, the chance is better of it leaving a flawless finish.

[RGP]

Re: Swirl X applied by hand...

Well, the best answer is maybe.

ScratchX 2.0 and UC will leave many paints pretty darn flawless if used properly. But, there are some paints that still need followed up by something milder.

ScratchX 2.0 being milder than UC, the chance is better of it leaving a flawless finish.

Good answer Mr. Murr, thank you! '08 Mazda True Red; any experiences with Mazda's paint?

[the_invisible]

Re: Swirl X applied by hand...

Good answer Mr. Murr, thank you! '08 Mazda True Red; any experiences with Mazda's paint?

Results always vary from vehicle to vehicle.

Since 2004, the paint on the Japanese made Mazdas is said to be Mazda's most environmentally friendly paint (in both the production and degrading process). I have detailed a Mazda3, which has the same paint system as the Miata, and its paint is moderately soft. it is hard enough to prevent swirls from washing, but soft enough that it get scratched fairly easily. Try SwirlX first. It will most likely work for you by hand. I have used something milder than SwirlX for swirls on the Mazda and it worked fine even by hand.

On the contrary, my BMW 3 series has clear coats so hard that not even Ultimate Compound could work effectively against in removing deeper swirls.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Swirl X applied by hand...

I had planned on polishing the recommended 12" square area with Swirl X and a very vigorous and protracted application with a Meguiar's yellow sponge applicator.

This is a wise move - we always suggest doing a test spot first as there's nothing worse than doing an entire vehicle only to find out later that your product/process choice didn't take you where you wanted to go. All the more important when working by hand.

I'm questioning whether Swirl X is perhaps too fine to yield the desired results unless using power equipment, and am therefore wondering if Scratch X 2.0 will get me to the same place regarding swirl removal and gloss level, but with less frustration and exhaustion?

This is all dependent on how hard (workable) your paint is, how aggressively you apply the product, etc. Either product should give you a very high level of clarity and gloss. In fact, we've had comments from users of these products that in some cases they do too good a job. The customer used the product to address a specific area on their vehicle only to find that, upon removal of the defect, they now had an area on the vehicle with more gloss and clarity than the rest of it!

I'd also really appreciate your experiences regarding the gloss level that can be obtained by, on one hand with Scratch X 2.0 and on the other, via Swirl X.

Perhaps phrased differently, if I initially use Scratch X 2.0, will I always have to follow up with Swirl X to achieve the highest gloss level before I, as my last step, apply my NXT 2.0?

You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two, other than the amount of defects removed. Even then, depending on how workable the paint is, how you applied it, etc, the level of defect removal may be quite similar. Just too many variables to provide an absolute answer. But you should not need to follow one with the other to achieve a higher gloss level.

We can speculate, debate and make recommendations all day long, but the proof is in the pudding (maybe for MOL we should change that old saying to "the proof is in the paint") and sooner or later you just have to get to work. Do your test spot, or better yet, do a test spot with each product side by side and provide your own definitive answer. We've had several newer Mazda models come through Meguiar's Garage in the past year and the paint on all of them has been pretty easy to correct. But we haven't worked on your Mazda.

[RGP]

Re: Swirl X applied by hand...

Results always vary from vehicle to vehicle.

Since 2004, the paint on the Japanese made Mazdas is said to be Mazda's most environmentally friendly paint (in both the production and degrading process). I have detailed a Mazda3, which has the same paint system as the Miata, and its paint is moderately soft. it is hard enough to prevent swirls from washing, but soft enough that it get scratched fairly easily. Try SwirlX first. It will most likely work for you by hand. I have used something milder than SwirlX for swirls on the Mazda and it worked fine even by hand.

On the contrary, my BMW 3 series has clear coats so hard that not even Ultimate Compound could work effectively against in removing deeper swirls.

Boy, you can't beat a man at his own game!!! That makes me feel a bit more optimistic about the manual operation and my possible success. Thanks a million my friend!!! As you probably already know, they all apparently come outa Hiroshima. That information will serve me well for however long I own this car. May be washing more and quik detailing less from now on.

[RGP]

Re: Swirl X applied by hand...

This is a wise move - we always suggest doing a test spot first as there's nothing worse than doing an entire vehicle only to find out later that your product/process choice didn't take you where you wanted to go. All the more important when working by hand.

This is all dependent on how hard (workable) your paint is, how aggressively you apply the product, etc. Either product should give you a very high level of clarity and gloss. In fact, we've had comments from users of these products that in some cases they do too good a job. The customer used the product to address a specific area on their vehicle only to find that, upon removal of the defect, they now had an area on the vehicle with more gloss and clarity than the rest of it!

You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two, other than the amount of defects removed. Even then, depending on how workable the paint is, how you applied it, etc, the level of defect removal may be quite similar. Just too many variables to provide an absolute answer. But you should not need to follow one with the other to achieve a higher gloss level.

We can speculate, debate and make recommendations all day long, but the proof is in the pudding (maybe for MOL we should change that old saying to "the proof is in the paint") and sooner or later you just have to get to work. Do your test spot, or better yet, do a test spot with each product side by side and provide your own definitive answer. We've had several newer Mazda models come through Meguiar's Garage in the past year and the paint on all of them has been pretty easy to correct. But we haven't worked on your Mazda.

Thank you Mr. Stoops. Those are the kind of nut and bolt answers I've been hoping for!!! Now, if you can wade through my secondary "Columbo" thread this morning, I'll be good to go. Thank you sooo much!!!