Help....something wrong with my hood...

[yga]

my car is honda jazz....i use a rotary buffer i did this about a week ago, i use M82 and w9000 pad.....
back then the hood was clear finish and doesn't had this defect, did i do something wrong, i prime my pad before start in the first time using QD, i use 1000 in start to spread the product
half of the pass i use little bit presure on 1300 RPM then on the last pas i turn the speed to 1000 again....

help me, is it something wrong with my technique or something else, thx before
i'm sory for the picture to little, my conection in indonesia is very poor so i had to resize the picture

[Andrew C.]

Re: Help....something wrong with my hood...

It appears that you have left behind holograms on your hood. It is most likely that you were going too fast across you hood and left these marks. I am not extremely knowledgeable on rotaries but I am pretty sure that is what your situation is. I'd suggest going back over slower, but wait for some other guys to reply too.

[IMSHAKN]

Re: Help....something wrong with my hood...

Doesn't look like anything that isn't fixable. Looks like you've managed to put some light holograms into the finish of the car.

I'm guessing you were not keeping the pads flat judging by how thin the buffer trails are? (looks like you were using the edge to do all the work)

Have you ever used a rotary before?

Also, judging by the long continuous lines, I'd almost say you are working in too large of an area as well. I'd say you might want to do some more practice work on something that doesn't mean much to you.

[yga]

Re: Help....something wrong with my hood...

Doesn't look like anything that isn't fixable. Looks like you've managed to put some light holograms into the finish of the car.

I'm guessing you were not keeping the pads flat judging by how thin the buffer trails are? (looks like you were using the edge to do all the work)

Have you ever used a rotary before?

Also, judging by the long continuous lines, I'd almost say you are working in too large of an area as well. I'd say you might want to do some more practice work on something that doesn't mean much to you.

yes i try to keep my pad flat, but in the corner oh the i often tilting th rotary but on the clockwise rotation of the buffer, it has been 4 months using rotary ......
yes i still had a lot to learn ....about working area i divide the as 8 segment 4 segment on each half

[yga]

Re: Help....something wrong with my hood...

It appears that you have left behind holograms on your hood. It is most likely that you were going too fast across you hood and left these marks. I am not extremely knowledgeable on rotaries but I am pretty sure that is what your situation is. I'd suggest going back over slower, but wait for some other guys to reply too.

i think what u said is making sense, i think i'm going to fast on the machine so i left with this buffer trail ..

[yga]

Re: Help....something wrong with my hood...

does M82 contains filler, coz when i did it, before wax the hood is in good finish.....my friend told me to wipe it down with IPA first everytime i use polishing product because they contains a little bit of filler....
is it true

[IMSHAKN]

Re: Help....something wrong with my hood...

Only advice I can give ya is practice being very fluid with the buffer and guide it with your trigger hand while ensuring that the pad is flat. I am almost certain you wouldn't be seeing those buffer trails if you had that pad flatter against the surface.

This may help, but if you are using a dewalt I'd try using your other hand on the head of the buffer instead of the stick handle they provide as I know that when I was first starting I tended to have the death grip on that handle.

I'm sure someone else will have some good advice for you. I am getting reacquainted with the rotary myself as it's been about 2 years since I've used one on a regular basis. Just keep practicing.

[IMSHAKN]

Re: Help....something wrong with my hood...

does M82 contains filler, coz when i did it, before wax the hood is in good finish.....my friend told me to wipe it down with IPA first everytime i use polishing product because they contains a little bit of filler....
is it true

To my knowledge M82 contains nothing in it intended to fill blemishes. As you may read from some searching, almost all polishes may have a slight masking effect as they contain solvents to allow the polish to be a liquid and some oils necessary to lubricate the paint during the polishing process.

Some will argue that an IPA wipedown is necessary while others may say it's a waste of time and that it may not remove all traces of oils or fillers.

I personally wipe down my test spots with a 50/50 IPA solution just to make a better evaluation of the work that I am doing.

It's possible that you may not have been viewing the car under the right lighting conditions or viewing angle to notice the trails when you buffed the car out.

[yga]

Re: Help....something wrong with my hood...

maybe.....but i use halogen light, i'm sory to argue....i'm a newbie and want to learn a new things
maybe my technique need a little bit of learning to do or maybe i missed an angle to look
thx for help apreciate it

[b00g2003]

Re: Help....something wrong with my hood...

remember not to buff dry. Which means when the products is about gone on the surface, its time to stop. There are many good threads on the forum about this topic and many others for the rotary.

Rotary buffers are a little more picky on t technique than a dual action polisher. This is always a good place for a G110 if you have one!! They kick swirls in the pants..

Props to ya for not being afraid to try something new!! Practice makes perfect ! I can remember my first rotary job, it was less than perfect thats for sure!

Stick with, take everyone advice and practice!! Everyone had to start somewhere...

Good Luck!!

[yga]

Re: Help....something wrong with my hood...

Only advice I can give ya is practice being very fluid with the buffer and guide it with your trigger hand while ensuring that the pad is flat. I am almost certain you wouldn't be seeing those buffer trails if you had that pad flatter against the surface.

This may help, but if you are using a dewalt I'd try using your other hand on the head of the buffer instead of the stick handle they provide as I know that when I was first starting I tended to have the death grip on that handle.

I'm sure someone else will have some good advice for you. I am getting reacquainted with the rotary myself as it's been about 2 years since I've used one on a regular basis. Just keep practicing.

yes i'm using dewalt i think i'll keep practicing, like people used to say practice makes perfect right yhx for helping mee IMSHAKN....
sory with the plenty of question....
thx very much

[yga]

Re: Help....something wrong with my hood...

remember not to buff dry. Which means when the products is about gone on the surface, its time to stop. There are many good threads on the forum about this topic and many others for the rotary.

Rotary buffers are a little more picky on t technique than a dual action polisher. This is always a good place for a G110 if you have one!! They kick swirls in the pants..

Props to ya for not being afraid to try something new!! Practice makes perfect ! I can remember my first rotary job, it was less than perfect thats for sure!

Stick with, take everyone advice and practice!! Everyone had to start somewhere...

Good Luck!!

yes thx bro...i use rotary coz it can remove defect quickly but if ur not becarefull with the tecnique this is what u get
i still had a lot to learn since i use rotary buffer had been 4 months

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Help....something wrong with my hood...

You're questions relating to not being able to create a 100% swirl-free, or hologram-free finish is an old problem and it's actually a topic that has been explained in detail in a couple of threads on this forum in our Hot Topics forum group.

Hang on and I'll get the links to the threads so you can read through them...

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Help....something wrong with my hood...

Because this topic comes up often, it's given us the chance to type plenty on the subject.


In a nutshell...
Using a rotary buffer to create a swirl free finish after stripping any fillers off the paint and then viewing it in the brightest sunlight can be done by some people but more often than not it has more to do with the paint system and how polishable it is versus you, your skill level, your choice of pad and product. The best thing to do and what I do for all my personal detailing work is to follow any rotary work with an application of a cleaner/polish or a cleaner/wax using a dual action polisher. Better safe than sorry...



Buffer Swirls, Holograms and the Rotary Buffer

Questions about how to avoid swirls with the rotary buffer come up often enough that this "Hot Topic" article was created to share a number of relevant and valuable existing threads that if you'll invest the time to read through them and digest the information you'll find your questions answered and you'll know what it takes to machine clean and polish a car using a combination of tools while creating a swirl-free finish.

Holograms - Is it possible to 100% remove them with the rotary buffer?

How to avoid swirls and holograms?

Quote:

Originally posted by chip douglas Do you *always* get holograms with a rotary, even with a finishing pad and say #82 ? I was trying to attempt making a clear coated finish perfect using only a rotary, and I've almost concluded it can't be done and needs to be followed up with the PC. If I do not wash the car and bring it out in the bright sunlight, then it looks perfect with #82, BUT if I remove the #82, then I can see the very light holograms. My car is black btw. Marc

Not always. It really depends on product selection, skill, technique and paint hardness, or paint workability. The latter two factors are things which you have no control over. Having too soft of a paint system can also work against you because the paint will be easily scratched or swirled.

I would say that in most cases, if you wash the car after polishing with a rotary buffer and any companies pad and polish, and then pull the car into bright light such as sunlight, then you are going to see some light swirls or holograms depending on your process. Most polishes are easily removed with water and soap, especially detergent soaps.

To create a 100% swirl-free finish requires that you do everything you can to the best of your abilities to remove as many of the deeper defects from the finish as you can using a compound or cleaner/polish. Then using good technique, the correct pad and a finer polish, you re-polish the area and massage out any remaining haze or swirls from the first step.

If you do everything right you can get to about 98% to 99% of the way to your goal of a swirl free finish. In order to take your results over the top to perfection, you will have to re-polish the finish using a machine that oscillates instead of rotates, and/or apply a product that will fill-in and eliminate from your view, the very fine, or shallow swirls that may still remain.

Just to note, achieving perfection on a painted surface will always be influenced by things like paint hardness and/or softness. The harder the paint, the more difficult it will be to massage out each and every defect, while very soft paints will be prone to marring or micro-scratching. There is a sweet spot for paint harness that gives you the best of both worlds, hardness for durability and resistance to deteriorating, yet soft enough that it can be successfully polished. This unfortunately is something you can't control.

Your point of origin, or reference must also be considered. If you start out with a finish that has gross swirls, as in deep swirls possibly instilled by running the car repeatedly through a mechanical car wash, or perhaps it was machine buffed using a wool pad and a compound that doesn't utilize diminishing abrasives, no polish or wax is going to be able to fill-in deep swirls like this and make the paint look good. So if by using a rotary buffer you can effectively remove the deep swirls, scratches, oxidation, etching, (or whatever the defects are), and create a finish that is 99% of the way swirl-free, then the difference between the condition of the finish you started with and the condition of the finish you have created will be dramatic.

Final polishing with the dual action polisher and a fine polish like our #82 Swirl Free Polish or our #9 Swirl Remover 2.0, and even our #80 Speed Glaze, or a good quality polish or wax, (or both), will be enough to carry your results over the top.

It all comes down to the fact that in order to remove a defect you have to touch the surface, (in one way or another), and remove small particles of paint in an effort to level or flatten the surface. The trick then is to use a system that is able to remove defects, without instilling its own defects.

Does this help?


Here's even more great threads on this topic!

Need HELP! - How to avoid holograms?

Rotary vs PC vs Regular Orbital Buffer

Can a Rotary Buffer like a Makita or DeWalt be as Idiot-proof as a PC?

Switching from 3M to Meguiar's - Rotary Buffer Questions?

Please explain Pros/Cons between Rotary and Orbital Buffers

Learning to use the Rotary Buffer

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Help....something wrong with my hood...

Here's the full size version of your picture,



Click on the thumbnail in your gallery and this will pull up the full size image.


How to place a picture into your message
Digital cameras are GREAT! But if you don't know how to get your pictures off your computer and into your messages nobody's going to ever get to see your really cool pictures.
Working with photos on discussion forums