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Mike, you may or may not recall our recent correspondence about the spider webbing on my 65 Mustang. I received your product today, which includes the ScratchX. Now, do I put that on by hand or do I use the machine?
Out of the things you ordered, only #9 and ScratchX have any abrading ability and they are on the very gentle side of the aggressive scale.
When you get your order, try the ScratchX with a W-8006 foam polishing pad on the 5.0 speed setting and only buff a section about 16" square. This is called your test spot and you're testing to see if the defects in question are on the surface and if they are then you're seeing if ScratchX is aggressive enough to remove any of the swirls.
If you can remove some of the more shallow swirls with the ScratchX this is a good sign as this means you can fix the problem but you'll likely want to get something more aggressive and if you're not into much of a hurry then you might want to wait for some of our new products to come out because they're going to give you the nicest finish possible for your new paint job.
Additionally, if that fails, you had mentioned 2 more aggressive products, could you please repeat those for me so I'm sure to get the right product.
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If you want to do it sooner than later AND if your ScratchX experiment works, then you can probably fix the entire finish with M80 Speed Glaze.
If you don't mind waiting until our new products come out than the new Ultimate Compound or new ScratchX should take care of the problem also.
Kind of your choice depending upon how soon you want to tackle the job.
The following is a URL for 4 pics of my trunk which I hope are clear enough for your evaluation. Hope this is no trouble for you and I deeply appreciate your help.
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The link isn't working.
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Mike, you may or may not recall our recent correspondence about the spider webbing on my 65 Mustang. I received your product today, which includes the scratchx. Now, do I put that on by hand or do I use the machine? Additionally, if that fails, you had mentioned 2 more aggressive products, could you please repeat those for me so I'm sure to get the right product. I have included the URL for pics of my trunk (which is by far the worst area on my Pony ), the rest of the car has for the most part, minor surface scratches. The problem areas on the trunk, are, in my humble opinion, surface scratches also. The following is a URL for 4 pics of my trunk which I hope are clear enough for your evaluation. Hope this is no trouble for you and I deeply appreciate your help.
The world of online gambling is ever-evolving, and the introduction of Bitcoin casinos in 2023 will revolutionize the industry. These casinos offer various
Out of the things you ordered, only #9 and ScratchX have any abrading ability and they are on the very gentle side of the aggressive scale.
When you get your order, try the ScratchX with a W-8006 foam polishing pad on the 5.0 speed setting and only buff a section about 16" square. This is called your test spot and you're testing to see if the defects in question are on the surface and if they are then you're seeing if ScratchX is aggressive enough to remove any of the swirls.
If you can remove some of the more shallow swirls with the ScratchX this is a good sign as this means you can fix the problem but you'll likely want to get something more aggressive and if you're not into much of a hurry then you might want to wait for some of our new products to come out because they're going to give you the nicest finish possible for your new paint job.
If you want to remove the swirls sooner, then do the test spot and let us know what kind of results you get and chances are very good if you can remove some of the swirls and scratches with ScratchX then you'll want to get either some M80 or some M83 to really go after them.
If you are, when you copy and paste into any vBulletin forum the forum software corrupts the hidden code in MS Word and you get whacked out posts like the last one you posted.
Copy and paste into Notepad first and this will strip the hidden code and then copy and paste into the forum for a clean transfer of data.
When I get the product I will run the test that you describe, although I am inclined to believe that it isn't a preparation problem as the finish held up pretty well for quite some time.
Thanks for your help Mike, I'm trying.
Rich
After painting a car often times the body shop will sand the paint down and then buff it out. All too often this is where the paint job gets butchered because they do shoddy work.
It's the quality of the wet-sand, cut and polish work that makes or breaks a paint job, not the paint job and most body shops have untrained people using cheap, low quality products doing this step and only give the technician a few hours to do the job when done correctly it would require a day for production work and multiple days for show car work.
The real problem is if this is in fact the problem then you have to try to fix it yourself because if they couldn't do it right the first time then they certainly won't be able to do it right the second time and each time someone attempts to fix it and doesn't fix it you will have less and less precious film-build on the car, (that means clear paint).
This is the norm for body shops, this is what we call yet just another horror story posted to our forum.
Now I have scratches and spider marks showing through.
The way the above sentence reads it sounds like you're describing prep work scratches that are under the clear coat. If that's the case then no, it can't be fixed without repainting.
If what you mean is now there are swirls and scratches in the top coat layer of paint, then yes these can be removed.
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