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Any new news in regards to there being any trade secret polishing oils in the new products?
All of our products contain these "polishing oils" to some extent. These new products are designed to apply easily, stay wet while working them, and add darkness. Those factors can all be attributed to our “polishing oils”. Please don’t get too hung up on what's in these new product as much as the performance of these products.
At that point I could have tried a QD, but instead I went straight to DC#1 because I wanted the extra cleaning power, with minimal or no cut.
Another option would be to use M09 Swirl Free Polish for a very gentle cleaner that will remove anything off the surface while leaving a very clear, high gloss surface behind.
Just apply it gently, or very lightly to the paint and then remove immediately with a clean, soft microfiber polishing cloth.
What are you working on? Or is this all hypothetical?
Thanks for the info - I'm just trying to find my bearings in amongst the '09 product changes, which is all very exciting .
The situation I had in mind when I asked the question is what happened a while ago - I had fully corrected the paint and then applied #21, and because of incorrect application, I ended up getting some minor smearing on the very temperamental red paint on my 350Z. At that point I could have tried a QD, but instead I went straight to DC#1 because I wanted the extra cleaning power, with minimal or no cut. I suppose the alternative would have been to have done an IPA wipedown.
But I understand what you mean about the application process playing a big part.
So if DC#1 goes, where can Meguiar's customers turn to for a dedicated chemical cleaner with no, or minimal, "cut"?
That is, if I wanted to use a pure chemical cleaner to strip wax, but leave behind defects "in" the paint, what Meguiar's product would I use?
Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner contains diminishing abrasives.
For a light cleaner to strip anything off the surface without effecting the paint you can use Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner, (it's still available and will be on shelves for some time to come), M09 Swirl Remover 2.0 or SwirlX
Just apply them gently and you shouldn't remove any paint and if you do it will be so minimal it's not an issue. Remember, it's not just the chemical you use it's also the way you apply it, (Machine or Hand), your application material, (A wool cutting pad or soft foam applicator pad and anything in-between), and your pressure and length of time you apply the product.
If you have a waxed automotive finish and you want to strip the wax off to get to a clean base, then gently applying any of the above product will only take a few passes by hand to remove whatever wax is on the surface, please don't get the picture in your mind that you need to grind on the paint to remove a previously applied coating of wax or a paint sealant, that's just not how it is.
What are you working on? Or is this all hypothetical?
The key with the new products is how you apply them. If you work them hard, they clean hard, if you work them in mild, they clean mild. So you would just want to apply the SwirlX gently, if you were staying in the Consumer Line of products.
This is true especially if for the purpose of the extreme AR enthusiasts you use a reverse extreme logic and position it like this, applying a pure polish to a clear coat finish, even a brand new clear coat finish in perfect condition won't hurt anything, so what's the opposite of hurt anything?
You may not see a dramatic before and after like you would with an older clear coat finish or an older single stage finish but the process is positive, not negative.
Given that I stand at the beginning of the learning curve, would it be best for me to switch to the new consumer products, especially since the new products are so good at not producing micro-marring?
It sounds like that the SwirlX-ScratchX-UC line might effectively "replace" the M80-M83 combo, at least for news like myself. (My car, btw, is a black Honda.)
TIA.
Al
In a word, "yes". One of the ideas behind the introduction of these 2 new products, Ultimate Compound and SwirlX and changing ScratchX to our new super micro abrasive technology is to get the products people need into retail distribution through Hard Parts stores as we understand that the average enthusiasts doesn't know what a PBE store is or how to find one, (unless they've been reading this forum).
Our goal and is to give you products that help you reach your goals and make it easier for you to locate them in your local stores.
The Bigger Picture
With the introduction of UC, ScratchX and SwirlX, the majority of people working on their car themselves should be able to remove any defects in their car's paint that can safely be removed. Ultimate Compound is very effective, anyone reading this is not going to understand how powerful that statement is until they try it themselves so until then you just have to trust me on this one. The point being that if UC doesn't remove the defect, then sure you can always switch to products in our Professional Line with a rotary buffer but that just means you're working on something that's probably pretty deep to start with and may not be safe to remove anyways.
As for finishing without any hazing or micro-marring, that's a true bonus but keep in mind there are lots of paint systems on the market and I've seen pants that are so soft that just looking at them scratched them, so as usual you'll always want to do a test spot first.
So since they are not cleaner/polishes but they finish like them and would it be more advisable to use a pure polish?
I know that products like M03, M07 have big differences on single stage paint, on clear coats too but not that noticeable like single stage but since these new products are out and are not formulated like M80 or M83 (that are rich in oils) would it be more recommended to use a pure polish?
I ask because M80 has many oils and sometimes I don't see the difference between M80/Wax and M80/M03 -or- M07/Wax
I don't have enough information on the chemical make-up of these new products to post definitive answers and as I've already posted elsewhere, lets allow our Meguiar's team to do their job at SEMA/NACE and when they get back we can get more detailed information within our proprietary guidelines.
What's more important is to focus on the results, not the ingredients, Meguiar's hasn't been letting people down over a 100 years and you can trust our chemist know what needs to be in a product to enable do the job not only right the first time but give you best in class results as has been our tradition. Remember, more people that win Best of Class and Best of Show at the Pebble Beach Concours D'Elegance since records have been kept, we're not going to start making products that won't continue that tradition in 2009
I've seen a definite difference on modern clear coat finishes when adding the extra step of a pure polish like 7 or M81, doesn't the clear coat finishes benefit from the oils too? I've seen them dry out
Not so much when the paint is brand new factory baked on paint because if you think about it paint like this should be perfect already as it is Brand New.
As any paint gets older and suffers wear-and-tear, then yes applying a pure polish can benefit the paint by restoring clarity which enables your eyes to see through it to the color coat underneath.
We have to speak or write very precisely on this topic because there's always a certain element of online enthusiasts that are misinformed and spread misinformation for whatever their nefarious purposes may be.
I've seen a definate difference on modern clear coat finishes when adding the extra step of a pure polish like 7 or m81, dosen't the clear coat finishes benefit from the oils too? I've seen them dry out
Yes, they benefit from it, always
Sometimes the car is in good shape maybe you can tackle it just by using M80 and because this product is rich in oils then sometimes (for me) I don't see the difference between between M80/wax -or- M80 followed by a pure polish and then wax.
I asked this because suppose that you don't have M80, and tackle a car just by using M205 (you remove all of the defects) would it be very very noticeable to use a pure polish with this product since M205 is not rich in oils like M80
I've seen a definate difference on modern clear coat finishes when adding the extra step of a pure polish like 7 or m81, dosen't the clear coat finishes benefit from the oils too? I've seen them dry out
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