Re: Best product?
If you do divide it up, just remember to wax what you have cleaned and polished before you quit so those sections are sealed up with wax and protected.
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Re: Best product?
Don't forget that's a BIG project if this is your first time working entire car by hand... you may divide the process into 2-3 days or even more. Don't rush
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Guest repliedRe: Best product?
I might try m80. The finish is not as oxidized as that mercedes. I'll also have to wetsand some touchup paint blobs. The finish is pretty close to the 4runner in this thread. Its also the same color
A few weekends ago a good friend wanted me to clean up his old 4Runner for him. It is rarely washed, I don't think it was ever waxed. It has rust holes in area's, and the paint was heavily oxidized. Well I decided to help him out by buffing it out as best as I could. Procedure as follows: Gold Class Wash Clay all surfaces
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Re: Best product?
Originally posted by Buhundred View PostBut I want to know how abrasive is m80? The
It's the right tool for the job and how aggressive it is also depends upon how aggressive or gentle you apply it.
Do a Test Spot, if you don't know what a Test Spot is then here's some threads to read up on it.
http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/tags.php?tag=Test-Spot
You also really need to be familiar with the 5-Step Paint Care Cycle to help you understand the different products and the order in which you use them.
Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle
(Posted in the The Information Station)
Head knowledge, that is knowing what your doing and why is more important than having the right product in your garage.
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Guest repliedRe: Best product?
But I want to know how abrasive is m80? The funny thing is that I checked the locator for pbe stores and there's a store that's basically a walking distance from my house!
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Re: Best product?
Originally posted by Buhundred View PostMy only problem is that I can only get the products locally and m80 is hard to find.
Here's an article written years ago just for helping to educate people on the two different types of stores in the automotive industry.
How to locate Meguiar's Professional and Detailer products in your hometown
The 3rd method always works by the way but the other two are good options.
Remember this, once you find a PBE store, if they don't have M80 in stock, the can order it for you and usually have it in a day or two.
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Guest repliedRe: Best product?
My only problem is that I can only get the products locally and m80 is hard to find.
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Re: Best product?
Yes, though M80 has many polishing oils in it (the most out of any cleaner/polish), and you may not notice a benefit. The best way to tell would be to tape off a test spot, apply M07, gently and slowly remove the tape and see if the paint looks any different. If so, you will probably have to do the entire vehicle now so it is even, lol. If not, head to waxing.
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Guest repliedRe: Best product?
I am 100% sure it's single stage because I tried some dc1 and saw some red on the towel. But Could I use #7 after m80?
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Re: Best product?
Originally posted by Buhundred View PostSo my problem is that my dads 4runner has very oxidized paint.
If so,
Wash
Clay
M80 Speed Glaze by hand using cotton terry cloth applicator pads or cut pieces out of a quality cotton towel.
Work the M80 to small sections at a time so you can really focus on working/massaging the paint, this will remove the dead paint and revive the color.
After you've cleaned and polished with M80 apply your favorite wax.
M80 = One of the best if not the best hand applied product for neglected, oxidized single stage paints.
M80 Speed Glaze did this,
Blast from the Past! - Bringing the dead back to life! (http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19372) We've had the before and after pictures of this Extreme Makeover on the forum for a couple of years now but for some reason none of them were ever assembled into one thread to show the extreme before
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Re: Best product?
Originally posted by Murr1525 View PostI would look at:
1. Wash
2. Clay - Be sure to buy extra QD
3. #105
4. Polish - #7 is top of the line
5. Wax - Nxt 2.0, remember two thin coats.
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Re: Best product?
Well I think that because it is so neglected. (read his first post) he should add the cleaner wax step. After claying, the paint will probably need a good cleaning, before the lsp.
We still need some more info, is it ss, or bc/cc.
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Re: Best product?
We'll have to get a little more info....
I'm kind of going on the idea that it may be a clear coated vehicle, and may not even really be oxidation but just a lot of dirst and wear and tear and swirls and scratches.
Have to get a little follow up.
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Re: Best product?
I don't know about 105 on older oxidized paint. Seems a bit overkill to me...
When I de-oxidized my truck, I washed with a car soap and a bug scrubber to help scrub a bit of oxidation off. Rewashed with a regular mitt. Dried. I personally didn't clay as the paint didn't seem to need it. If your paint is pretty oxidized and this is your first time "correcting" this kind of paint, claying will definitely help.
Here is where you have some options...
DC1 will probably work just fine, but if you are working by hand, I'd go with a bit better product. I would try something like M80 by hand as it is a stronger and better cleaner and it has polishing oils in it. I would stock up on a handful of terry applicator pads and towels. Work in one application with a terry pad, then remove with a terry towel. The terry cloth works really well on single stage paint because the nap in it helps pick up and remove all of the dead, oxidized paint and the cleaner. If you get a decent quality terry product (something like the Viking products you can find all over at parts stores), single stage paint doesn't really seem to be affected by it even though it is a bit more aggressive than foam. I say stock up on a bunch of applicator pads because they will "fill" up with paint and product rather quickly. I use a pad four times before switching. One half, turn it 180, then flip it to the other side and repeat. The towels, you just want to make sure you have enough clean towels to finish what you start. May pick up some disposable gloves too to keep your hands from turning a different color.
From here, the paint should be clean and shiny! Use a foam applicator pad to apply M07. Then after that, be sure to wax each panel after using M07 to seal in the polish and keep the paint shiny! Single stage paint will generally require a bit more care to stay clean and shiny. I always use a spray wax while drying and bi-monthly, use a cleaner wax to remove any light oxidation/swirls that have built up (that oxidation sneaks up on you!!!) and re-polish and re-protect at the same time.
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Re: Best product?
Originally posted by Murr1525 View PostI would look at:
1. Wash
2. Clay - Be sure to buy extra QD
3. #105
4. Polish - #7 is top of the line
5. Wax - Nxt 2.0, remember two thin coats.
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