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I screwed up with polishing compound and need help BAD
I have had very little experience with wet sanding; lets say about two times, but it was always with the help of a professional. So I will not be going that route
Please start your own thread for your project, you've kind of tagged on to this thread and kind of taken it in your own direction, so please try to start a new thread for a different project than what the OP started this thread for.
Re: I screwed up with polishing compound and need help BAD
The biggest thing with ScratchX is REALLY working it into the paint. It is not a wipe on, work around and wipe off product. You need to really work the product maybe 2-3 minutes for a 18"x18" area. You may need 2-3 applications depending upon how workable your paint is. It may repsond after 2 attempts or more...
Here is an excellent thread on how to use ScratchX properly. Plus it shows what can be done!
Re: I screwed up with polishing compound and need help BAD
One quick update:
I got antsy and decided to run out to Pep Boys before the gf left for work. I used scratch X and I THINK there is improvement. I also put a coat of cleaner wax on it all to cover me through Saturday. You think 2-3 applications will do the trick?
Just to update:
In the daylight, the swirls are VERY hard to see, only at the right angle-- and possibly only because I'm angry about it. This makes for a bad photo. (But I guess that's a good problem to have?) I took a few, just need my girlfriend to load them up-- hopefully by tonight. Want to make sure I go with the right level of polish before I go at it. She'll also be away for work until Friday, so I do have some time. Thanks again guys
Morning,
Thanks for the update. From your description of the swirls being really hard to see unless from the right angle under the sun, it just demonstrates that you have minor swirling or hazing and that using too strong of product from the start would be overkill.
Yes pictures always help. Place your finger onto the paint where the swirls are visible as this will allow the auto focus in your camera to lock onto the finger and hopefully capture the swirls as well.
We look forward to the pictures and any follow-ups!
Re: I screwed up with polishing compound and need help BAD
I wouldn't trust that place in Franklin Lakes to wash my car, let alone detail. I've driven by it many times... stick to it yourself or find a real pro (not some high volume) car wash that doubles as a detail shop.
Re: I screwed up with polishing compound and need help BAD
Just to update:
In the daylight, the swirls are VERY hard to see, only at the right angle-- and possibly only because I'm angry about it. This makes for a bad photo. (But I guess that's a good problem to have?) I took a few, just need my girlfriend to load them up-- hopefully by tonight. Want to make sure I go with the right level of polish before I go at it. She'll also be away for work until Friday, so I do have some time. Thanks again guys
I have had very little experience with wet sanding; lets say about two times, but it was always with the help of a professional. So I will not be going that route
I'll definitely give Scratch X a try though this week.
However, this week I am hoping to get a Makita polisher and if the Scratch X doesn't work, then I'll have to move up to that. The hood is in such HORRIBLE shape that I feel like i don't have much else to lose. The scratches are so deep that my finger nail gets caught in it.
If the Scratch X doesn't work, what would you suggest? Going with #80 or #83, or am I going in the wrong direction?
If the ScratchX does not work, then the next course of action should be using a Dual Action Polisher like the Meg's G110 or the Porter Cable 7336, with a W-8006 Polishing Pad and a product like Meguiar's M80 or even M83 if the M80 is not strong enough. You will be surprised just how well the G110 with the right pads and products work!
Most people get into using the rotary polisher after they have used the DA for sometime. But they are both important tools to have. To learn with a rotary, we suggest people practicing on a old hood etc as it takes a lot of practice to learn to do it right. I have seen videos on video sites etc where someone claiming to be rotary skilled just started buffing over everything with the rotary. The method used would surely cause buffer holograms, paint buckling especially over polymer plastic parts and burned paint on door handle edges etc My point is, while it looks easy, using the rotary takes some practice. But once you get the hang of it, it is an awesome tool! I have used rotaries for over 20 years and would not detail without them. But for the beginner, using the DA will get your finish looking awesome! You WILL be surprised!!!
Long story short, we would suggest moving up to a DA before going to the rotary. It is easier and much safer to use. Plus when you decide to move up to the rotary, many pros use the DA after rotary polishing to refine the finish even further as it will remove light holograms etc. Just like a mechanic who needs a specific tool for a certain task, so to does a detailer.
Re: I screwed up with polishing compound and need help BAD
I have had very little experience with wet sanding; lets say about two times, but it was always with the help of a professional. So I will not be going that route
I'll definitely give Scratch X a try though this week.
However, this week I am hoping to get a Makita polisher and if the Scratch X doesn't work, then I'll have to move up to that. The hood is in such HORRIBLE shape that I feel like i don't have much else to lose. The scratches are so deep that my finger nail gets caught in it.
If the Scratch X doesn't work, what would you suggest? Going with #80 or #83, or am I going in the wrong direction?
M.Phillips recommended wet sanding it. Obviously with 1500-2000, correct? And then I would follow it up with something to get the WS marks out, such as 105 or something similar? Then, as you said, take care of the marring and/swirls until I am left with a polished finished?
I understand the hood is in rough condition and I'm really just wanting to try something, and even if it doesn't work, I'll have learned something in the process.
NO...wet sanding is not something you want to attempt unless you have a LOT of experience.
Firstly, factory CC (Clear Coat) is quite thin and sometimes quite hard. Meaning it is easy to sand, but to remove the sanding marks almost always requires a rotary polisher, heavy compounds and a person skilled in using it.
Secondly, I have seen people attempt to polish out sanding marks by hand or DA and while I am not saying it can not be done with a DA or by hand, over all of these years I have yet to see a finish that was not left with sanding tracers or sanding marks that became visible once out in the sun unless a rotary was used or the paint was VERY workable which most modern CC's are not.
Again, you need to start with the least aggressive method first. It is very easy to get in over a person's head by using too aggressive of product or method thereby making the problem a whole lot worse.
Try the ScratchX and then see how it goes from there...
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