I got Color X:)

[78_Caprice]

Well picked it up today and ready for my big detail tommorow. My brother wanted to try some on his 69 Chevy C-10 and wow it pulls off oxidation just like that! it's AWESOME! two thumbs up!

I just wanted to know a few things about it.

I will be doing the car tommorow in the shade.

Do I just apply it softly to the whole car then let it sit for 10-15 minutes then wipe off? or do you have to be really aggressive and rub it in until there is no more product left on the paint?

Also I have #20 and #26 sittin around, should I top the ColorX first with #20 followed by #26?

The car does sit outside, so I want ULTIMATE protection.

Thanks!

*edit* also do you go in a swirl motion or back and forth motion while putting it on?

[Antonio Wright]

Rub the product in with moderate pressure in a back and forth motion. No more then 10-15 passes. Then proceed to buff off.

[Tim Lingor]

Hey,

With ColorX, I have found that it works best when it is worked in very thoroughly in one area. Then move on to another area and apply the same way. Now, go back to the first area and wipe off the residue. If you do this type of pattern for the whole car, it will work VERY well.

As for topping it, I have always used #20 topped with #26 for YEARS!! So, I would top the ColorX with the #20. Then wait overnight and then top with #26.

Keep us posted!!!

Tim

[rusty bumper]

ColorX works best when massaged into the paint (As Tim was saying)...It's a type of product that gives better & better results as you work it in.

How much effort to put into this, is up to the detailer to decide.

[78_Caprice]

I just put it on normally swirl motion that's they way my brother did it on his truck and it turned out nice so I wanna see what it does. If it didn't work then I will try harder with the product.

I'm still VERY happy with ColourX!

[rusty bumper]

Originally posted by 78_Caprice
I just put it on normally swirl motion that's they way my brother did it on his truck and it turned out nice so I wanna see what it does. If it didn't work then I will try harder with the product.

I'm still VERY happy with ColourX!

You might could try using a piece a terry cloth if the oxidation is bad enough.

[78_Caprice]

Well finished awhile ago! turned out the same haha.

I guess ColorX is only good for certain types of oxidation because my car is shiny but it's like a below surface contaminant, I dunno I love it the way it is it's still super shiny just in certain light it's different I will eventually show you pictures of what I mean!, but otherwise ColorX did a nice job cleaning the contaminants off the top of the paint and alos filled in some swirls so I'm not complaining for $11.99, it did a beautiful job on my brother's truck, sure it's still dull but it's like a shiny dull if you understand what I mean.

I'll just do the DC 1&2 and #20 and #26 just before it goes in storage over the winter!.

I'll just maintain it with #26.

2hotford, is that the product to maintain it? (#26). Or what other product is best to maintain? Also how often should the vehicle just be waxed and how often should the vehicle have that method I use.(DC1&2 and #20 and #26)

[Tim Lingor]

Hey,

Sometimes if a vehicle is severly oxidized, nothing short of a rotary wll solve it. At best, a person could use a PC and some #83 DACP and really work the paint. But again, this may give only good but not excellent results.

My suggestion for your brother's truck is the #83 DACP and a PC. This will take the paint a few steps further.

For your car, based on our previous discussions, improvements could be made with a PC. But again the fear of thinning paint, leads me to suggest to just maintain with a combination of #20 and #26. This will leave you with a beautiful gloss and protect the finish. I would do this procedure every 3 months. Of course you can apply the #26 more often if you like in between.

Tim

[78_Caprice]

I'm gonna try and get pics for you as SOON as I can,

I'll show you what I mean, it's really shiny on top but it looks underneath is like baked or something I don't know it's weird.

I really gotta get pics to show what I mean.

[Mike Phillips]

Hi 78_Caprice,

When working on neglected and oxidized single stage paints, here are three tips,

1) Use a piece of terry cloth towel, the little cotton loops will help the chemical cleaners and the diminishing abrasives work better

2) Apply two coats, apply the first coat using the product fairly heavy, this will enable the liquid to penetrate into the paint and allow the chemical cleaners to do their job. Don't use the product to sparingly or you loose the chemical cleaning advantage

3) Apply the second coat using an ample amount, not too little not to heavy, and the second coat will act to insure an even, uniform look over the entire surface.

Hope this helps...

Mike

[78_Caprice]

thanks Mike, I'm going to send this over to my brother. He was very aggressive on the whole truck with the product but it turned out great, I'm sure after him reading this he will apply another coat in seconds.


But for me, I think I'm gonna go to an autobody shop and seeif they can tell if my paint is thin or not, I'm really scared to go further on ANY product out there.