A question about #3 machine polish/glaze

[weatherman]

I recently gave my black truck a good hand washing with DC car wash, and then proceeded to apply #3 machine polish/glaze with my G100. Unfortunately I had to do this in full sun with the temperature around 50 degrees. Anyway, even though I applied the #3 a small section at a time, it dried very quickly and hazed up like a coat of wax before I could wipe it off. Are you supposed to continue buffing the #3 until it begins to shine? Maybe if I hadn't done this in full sun, it would have not hazed up and would have buffed out to a shine. After polishing, I applied a coat of NXT 2.0 with my DC, and although the truck looks good, I can't help but wonder if it would look even better had I applied the polish differently. Thanks in advance.

[MSIGuy]

Re: A question about #3 machine polish/glaze

I thought that #3 was to be applied by a rotary only.

[weatherman]

Re: A question about #3 machine polish/glaze

I thought that #3 was to be applied by a rotary only.

a G100 is a rotary/dual action polisher.

[Tim Lingor]

Re: A question about #3 machine polish/glaze

a G100 is a rotary/dual action polisher.

Just for clarification, neither the G-100 nor the G-110 are rotaries, they are both just Dual Action polishers. There is a substantial difference between a rotary and a DA. The rotary is a direct drive unit and the DA's are not. There are a few hybrids on the market, but they too are not a true rotary.

Also to clarify, Meguiar's M03 Machine Glaze while designed for use with the rotary it can also be applied by Hand, DA, and Orbital. Meg's M03 contains extra lubricant making it possible to use with the rotary, though it can still be used by other application methods.

Tim

[weatherman]

Re: A question about #3 machine polish/glaze

Just for clarification, neither the G-100 nor the G-110 are rotaries, they are both just Dual Action polishers. There is a substantial difference between a rotary and a DA. The rotary is a direct drive unit and the DA's are not. There are a few hybrids on the market, but they too are not a true rotary.

Also to clarify, Meguiar's M03 Machine Glaze while designed for use with the rotary it can also be applied by Hand, DA, and Orbital. Meg's M03 contains extra lubricant making it possible to use with the rotary, though it can still be used by other application methods.

Tim

Thanks for the clarification. I now stand corrected. Unfortunately no one has answered my original question yet. Thanks.

Jim

[Tim Lingor]

Re: A question about #3 machine polish/glaze

Morning,

No...when you apply M03, you work it in thoroughly but remove while damp. M03 being a pure polish does not dry but rather skins-over. I get the best results applying and removing it one panel at a time.

All Meguiar's compounds/polishes/LSP's should be applied out of direct sunlight. If you found the product hazed or skinned-over quickly, then the surface temperature of the paint was too hot. Again, reduce the area being detailed (ie. divide the hood in 1/4's) and then remove quickly. Remember to be gentle during the wipe off. If too much product is used it may gum up, making it difficult to remove. If that happens, rather than rubbing really hard on the residue, lightly mist the residue with a Meguiar's Quik Detailer like M34 Final Inspection etc. then gently wipe it off. Rubbing too hard may put marring back into the paint.

I hope that helps!

Tim

[roushstage2]

Re: A question about #3 machine polish/glaze

No, it should not be buffed until it shines. That would be dry buffing. If the paint surface is that hot, you should wait until the paint cools down before working on it.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: A question about #3 machine polish/glaze

Looks like all your questions have been answered correctly by Tim and our forum members.

Just to add, if you're applying a pure polish, the paint is supposed to be already perfectly clean, that means defect free and this would have been from your cleaning step or because the paint is already excellent to start with, (new car/new paint job), this being true, then there's not reason to work #3 over the paint like you would a product you're trying to remove defects with as that is not the purpose of a pure polish.

Thus 2-3 passes over each square inch, which servers to thoroughly work the product over the paint, and your done, go ahead and wipe it off while it's still wet.

In most cases when applying a pure polish you would be using a W-8006 foam polishing pad and the speed setting for the polisher would be on the 3-4 speed setting. Sometime the 4 setting enables the pad to move more easily over the surface but you definitely don't need the 5.0 setting because again, you're not trying to remove defects.

If you're trying to remove swirls or scratches you need a product with some cleaning ability. After removing the defects then you could apply a pure polish and then a wax.

Hope this helps....


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[weatherman]

Re: A question about #3 machine polish/glaze

Many thanks to all of you for your help and advice. Having polished my truck in full sun explains why the #3 was rather hard to work with. I'm gonna have to clean out my garage so I can fit the truck in there before the next detail session. Sorry to be such a pest with some of these questions, but time is something I seem to have less and less of these days, so when I actually get a chance to work on one of my vehicles, I want to make sure that I am getting the best results out of my time spent on them. Make sense? Thanks again.