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The very best paint shops have clean rooms and filters, which prevent dust settling on the paint and overspray.
Quality paint is often done in paint booths that wet the floor to keep the dust down.
To paint over a car's paint, I would bring it to them smooth as glass because you have no guarantee they are going to sand and properly prepare it! I would clay it or wet sand/polish it with something strong like M85 or M105 and a rotary.
Would not hurt to use something like Windex (has a lot of water) in their parking lot before you make visual contact to remove organic oils, dirt, and water based stains. Believe it or not water is still the universal solvent, which dissolves most things in nature. For example, prepsol or body shop cleaners that remove grease, wax, silicone and that sort of stuff do not even touch water based contaminates from nature. They really only strip synthetic stuff. This is essentially because water is Polar (Remember Chemistry H+ and OH-) and will dissolve most polar things.
I would also check with the shop to determine what type of paint sprayer they are using and ask one of the workers about the pressure. Last but not least check the paint quality.
I had some paint work done at a private paint shop. The paint I had sprayed was sold by PPG, which required 2 other components. The recipe:
24 oz paint,
8 oz hardner
1.5 oz catylyst
I could have the hardner/catylyst mixed up. Regardless, this was a vivid metallic blue with metal flake made by PPG and to me the paint mixing method resembled an epoxy to be honest as once it is mixed, it must be sprayed or discarded. My painter was great. He measured exact and mixed everything up well without any air bubbles before loading the gun. FYI, the paint I had sprayed was $300/gal and it took about 3/4 of the paint to paint the car. The paint shop vacuum sealed the rest of the paint in a smaller airtight container for me and some catalyst and hardener in separate containers should the laws or the recipe ever change for hardeners or catylyst. It is good in storage for over 7 years they said provided I do not mix the ingredients, break the seal, and keep the small, clear container (about 2 oz) in the dark. They even labeled the paint code and bottles and PPG instructions for mixing it. If I ever need some body work done, I have the exact paint that will be sprayed.
THIS IS THE REAL CHEMISTRY!!!!!
Thanks for the informations.
The very best paint shops have clean rooms and filters, which prevent dust settling on the paint and overspray.
Quality paint is often done in paint booths that wet the floor to keep the dust down.
To paint over a car's paint, I would bring it to them smooth as glass because you have no guarantee they are going to sand and properly prepare it! I would clay it or wet sand/polish it with something strong like M85 or M105 and a rotary.
Would not hurt to use something like Windex (has a lot of water) in their parking lot before you make visual contact to remove organic oils, dirt, and water based stains. Believe it or not water is still the universal solvent, which dissolves most things in nature. For example, prepsol or body shop cleaners that remove grease, wax, silicone and that sort of stuff do not even touch water based contaminates from nature. They really only strip synthetic stuff. This is essentially because water is Polar (Remember Chemistry H+ and OH-) and will dissolve most polar things.
I would also check with the shop to determine what type of paint sprayer they are using and ask one of the workers about the pressure. Last but not least check the paint quality.
I had some paint work done at a private paint shop. The paint I had sprayed was sold by PPG, which required 2 other components. The recipe:
24 oz paint,
8 oz hardner
1.5 oz catylyst
I could have the hardner/catylyst mixed up. Regardless, this was a vivid metallic blue with metal flake made by PPG and to me the paint mixing method resembled an epoxy to be honest as once it is mixed, it must be sprayed or discarded. My painter was great. He measured exact and mixed everything up well without any air bubbles before loading the gun. FYI, the paint I had sprayed was $300/gal and it took about 3/4 of the paint to paint the car. The paint shop vacuum sealed the rest of the paint in a smaller airtight container for me and some catalyst and hardener in separate containers should the laws or the recipe ever change for hardeners or catylyst. It is good in storage for over 7 years they said provided I do not mix the ingredients, break the seal, and keep the small, clear container (about 2 oz) in the dark. They even labeled the paint code and bottles and PPG instructions for mixing it. If I ever need some body work done, I have the exact paint that will be sprayed.
A good shop will always use a quality grease & wax remover before shooting the car to remove any residual material. With that said, no need to take off paint to bare metal unless your doing it for other reason (bodywork etc...)
Is it truth that if your car has to much wax/sealants/glazes/polish on it you have to remove completely the paint up to the metal to repaint it again?
Murr 1525 said it best...
A good shop will always use a quality grease & wax remover before shooting the car to remove any residual material. With that said, no need to take off paint to bare metal unless your doing it for other reasons (bodywork etc...)
Well, if you left a car with wax on it sit in a garage for a few years, it should still have wax on it. So just letting it sit isnt something that you would want to rely on as a painter, even if it was sitting out in the weather.
I believe 3M, and probably various paint companies, make products to remove the grease/oil/etc before painting.
If you were to get your car painted, you would want to make sure that the shop was doing proper prep work like that. And if you were painting yourself, you would likely want to do the prep as well so your work turns out as best as possible.
Basicaly, waxes/polishes, etc can have ingrediants that will affect the way paint adheres. So if you were to paint over that sort of product, your paint job would not come out nicely.
That is why Meguairs also makes some products that are body shop safe, so that they wont affect painting.
Is there a time limit to leave the car w/out any product just to"clean up" the paint just by time passing through??
Basicaly, waxes/polishes, etc can have ingrediants that will affect the way paint adheres. So if you were to paint over that sort of product, your paint job would not come out nicely.
That is why Meguairs also makes some products that are body shop safe, so that they wont affect painting.
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