waxed my 2007 black Jaguar XKR last night. it was like 45 degrees last night. i woke up this morning and there was streaks all over the car. not sure if what they were. are they swirl marks. i put some nxt speed detailer and it made it worst there are streaks everywhere on the car now. is it because of the weather, what did i do wrong
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Re: Wax Problem
It's a drying problem due to cold temperatures and humidity.
Try re-waxing using the same wax only wait till it's warmer, if you can close the garage door and somehow get the garage warmed up a little.
Apply a very THIN coating. Allow it to fully dry. Wipe-off using a clean, soft microfiber.
From our FAQ
4. What temperature ranges are best for applying cleaners, polishes, and waxes degrees
When we talk about surface temperatures, we need to consider three factors:- Surface Temperature
- Ambient Temperature
- Relative Humidity
- Surface Temperature (Actual surface temperature of the vehicle)
The best surface temperature range for applying cleaners, polishes, and protectants is approximately 60 degrees to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. More importantly, the surface does not feel warm or hot to the touch.
Basically, when you're working within this temperature range, it's not too cold, and it's not too warm to realize exceptional results from just about any Meguiar's product.
Meguiar's products will work easily within a much broader temperature range, such as, 50 degrees to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, but guaranteed best results will be achieved in the 60 degrees to 80 degrees range.
Ambient Temperature (Outside temperature)
Ambient temperature is the room temperature or the temperature of the surrounding environment. It's easily possible to have between 10 to 50 degrees difference in ambient temperature compared to surface temperature. This can make the difference between a product that's easy to work with, or hard to work with. Keep in mind, the hotter the ambient temperature, the quicker products will dry.
Humidity (Moisture in the air)
Simply put, humidity is moisture in the air. Technically there is Relative Humidity and Absolute Humidity, but as it relates to:
- Applying
- Working with
- Curing, drying, hazing
- Wipe-off or removal of car care products.
Low humidity, in warm to hot temperatures, will act to cause liquids to evaporate and dry more quickly. This can make a product difficult to work with or decrease the amount of time the product remains easily workable on the surface.
High humidity in cold temperatures can make products hard to work because it can dramatically increase the amount of time necessary for the product to cure, dry or haze (depending on which product you're using).
Low humidity in low temperatures tends not to be a factor in working with, cure times, and when applying and in the removal of cleaners, polishes, and protectants (Low temperatures are a factor, but not low humidity in low temperatures).
High humidity in high temperatures tends not to be a factor in working with, cure times, and when applying and in the removal of cleaners, polishes, and protectants (High temperatures are a factor, but not high humidity in high temperatures)
Extreme temperatures, both cold and hot will make any product more difficult to work with.
Direct sunlight
Direct sunlight will dramatically increase the surface temperature compared to ambient temperatures and make cleaners, polishes and protectants extremely more difficult to apply, work and remove.
Air current/Wind
Air current/air flow, or windy conditions will act to increase the evaporation speed and potentially making some products more difficult to apply, work, or remove. In some cases this can be a bonus, helping a wax to cure/dry more quickly.
Summary
The best conditions for using cleaners, polishes and protectants on automotive paints would be in a cool place, out of direct sunlight, in a surface temperature range between 60 degrees and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with comfortable to low humidity, with a light breeze to create the perfect conditions for detailing your car's finish.
Common sense and a good rule-of-thumb is to avoid applying any product if the surface is too warm to touch with the palm of your hand comfortably.
50 degrees Fahrenheit = 10.0 degrees Celsius
90 degrees Fahrenheit = 32.2 degrees Celsius
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Re: Wax Problem
Originally posted by MRCLEAN View Postwaxed my 2007 black Jaguar XKR last night. it was like 45 degrees last night.
Do you have some Ultimate Quik Detailer?
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Re: Wax Problem
Mike nailed it, but I would add one more thought....
Uniform application is also VERY important.
If it is thick in some areas and thin in others, that in many cases leads to streaks.
In the thicker areas, the wax may not be ready to wipe off yet and can cause streaking unlike the thin areas where it would wipe off nicely with no streaks....
MikeMike Pennington
Director of Global Training, Events and Consumer Relations
Meguiar's, Inc.
800-854-8073
mpennington@meguiars.com
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Re: Wax Problem
Here's more...
Final Wiping Techniques
Final Wiping Techniques
One mention about your final wiping technique. (Not initial removal of product, but after the most of a product has been removed and now you're just giving the finish a final wipe).
Often times I witness people wiping the wax off their car, or giving their car's paint a final wipe using fast, spastic wiping motions. Instead, try this, take your wiping cloth, whether microfiber or cotton, be sure it is large enough to fold it 4 ways to give you plenty of cushion to distribute your hand/finger pressure more evenly over the surface of the side of the cloth in contact with the paint, and then wipe the finish slooooowly, not quickly like you're trying to put a fire out.
Wipe the finish slowly. Give the substance on the surface enough time to transfer to the fibers of the wiping cloth. Think about it... if you move your wiping cloth quickly over the surface, you're only allowing nano-seconds for any minute wax/polymer residue to transfer from the paint to the cloth, if you slow down the rate of travel of the cloth over the finish, you improve the chance for whatever it is you're trying to remove to successfully transfer to the fibers of your wiping cloth.
If you follow all of the above, always using clean, dedicated applicator pads to apply your products, then removing them using clean wiping cloths, your finish should look clear, gloss, rich in color.
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Re: Wax Problem
I was considering waxing once when it was a bit too cold to feel comfortable. Instead of using wax on a test spot I just grabbed the Ultimate Quik Detailer and tried it. When I couldn't get that to wipe dry and streak-free I decided against the waxing effort.
In any case, when the temperature and conditions are questionable, do a test spot first.
I'm sure you'll get it looking like new before long. Best wishes.
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Re: Wax Problem
Every year I find the explanation of temperatures in relation to waxing helpful reminders. I tend to forget about the cold temps living in Fl. It seems like its Murphy's law. When I plan to wax in a Fl. winter its a cold day. Thanks again for the reminder.quality creates its own demand
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Re: Wax Problem
All the wiping techniques mentioned were excellent, particularly the idea of wiping slowly. One more little touch I have found effective (I work mostly with dark colored paint). Take two microfiber cloths, folded, as Mike says four times for that important padding. But dampen one of the cloths -- wet it, wring it out thoroughly, give it a good shake to make the fibers stand up again, then fold into "fours" -- Now, do your final wipe off/polish making a first pass with the slightly damp cloth and the final polish with the dry one. It's amazing to see how the damp cloth does a final cleaning, removes minor streaks and "sets up" the wax for that final flourish with the dry cloth. I get crystal clear results.
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