Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
For the vehicle in question, 07 Tacoma in near mint condition.
1. Gold Class wash via Chenille mitt.
2. Clay.
3. #80 via PC.
4. A pure polish. #7 on a black vehicle is insane!
5. Wax. Since you asked about waxes and had a specific *look* you where going for I will give you my $.02. And remember, a look is nothing more than an opinion. Others including you may have a totally different point of view. That why it's important to find what works for you. Anyway, GC gives a deep classic look. NXT is a little more bling and has a lot of pop. #21 gives me the best of both worlds and is my favorite. #26 gives a very deep, wet, classic look.
It's all in the prep though. If you do a good job prepping the vehicle for LSP then I doubt you will be dissapointed with any of them. Given your request for a "classic black look" I would say #26 is probably what you would be most happy with.
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Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
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Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
Well, that's not quite what I meant, if you are wanting to detail the newer Toyota.
Although the older Toyota would be great to practice on, I fell that the rotary is a little extreme if you aren't going to need the power to take out some serious defects. The PC is extremely versatile and easy to use. That would be my first choice.
So, in conclusion, I would get a PC. Try it out for a year or two or three and see what you think of it. When you reach a point when the defects are becoming too serious or you start operating a high volume shop where some vehicles require a rotary, then I would contemplate getting a rotary. Besides, if you do get a rotary, you will still need a PC or something else to apply the waxes.
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Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
Originally posted by ScreamingTaco View PostJust to clarify, I have two trucks. A 79 Toyota 4x4 that's beat to sh*t and an 07 Tacoma that's near mint.
The 07 is getting the detailing...
I'll be practicing on the 79....
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Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
Just to clarify, I have two trucks. A 79 Toyota 4x4 that's beat to sh*t and an 07 Tacoma that's near mint.
The 07 is getting the detailing...
I'll be practicing on the 79....
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Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
I agree with PorscheGuy, you should get a rotary. I think you would like it so much better.
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Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
Here is a couple more helpful thread on the PC:
Recommended Products - G100a Dual Action Polisher
Product, Pad and Speed settings for the Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher
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Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
Here is what I use for pads:
ONLY use 6.5in pads with the PC
#83 - Polishing pad only
#80 - Polishing pad or finishing pad for the perfectionist
Polishes and waxes - Finishing pad
Cleaner wax - Polishing pad (more agressive) or finishing pad
Wax removal - Cutting pad and bonnet
I would get atleast three polishing pads and two finishing pads. ADS has a mix and match pad deal.
Since your vehicle is older, it probably would be almost a requirement to clay the vehicle before you use a paint cleaner.
Just a reminder, a PC will not damage your paint. The vehicle would be a perfect candidate for learning how to use a rotary, though.
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Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
Originally posted by PorscheGuy997 View PostHere is the ideal process:
Wash - GC (my favorite)
Clay - Smooth Surface or Quik Clay
Clean - #83 followed by #80 if necessary. #80 might be enough.
Polish - #7 (optional)
Protect - Gold Class, NXT, or #26 (#26 looks great on black)
If your 4x4 has bounced off a lot of trees, it would be very beneficial to clay the vehicle to remove the contaminants. If this is with a PC, there is no risk of damaging the paint. If it is with a rotary, I hope you don't care about burning the paint. Black shows EVERYTHING!!!
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Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
Here is the ideal process:
Wash - GC (my favorite)
Clay - Smooth Surface or Quik Clay
Clean - #83 followed by #80 if necessary. #80 might be enough.
Polish - #7 (optional)
Protect - Gold Class, NXT, or #26 (#26 looks great on black)
You can use DC1 with a PC, but there really isn't a reason to; there are hardly any abrassives that need to be broken down in it. #80 will really make your paint look great.
Yes, your product removal method is correct.
If your 4x4 has bounced off a lot of trees, it would be very beneficial to clay the vehicle to remove the contaminants. If this is with a PC, there is no risk of damaging the paint. If it is with a rotary, I hope you don't care about burning the paint. Black shows EVERYTHING!!!
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Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
Originally posted by gb387 View PostI kind of mentioned it in my above post, your hand application process sounds good, about the only thing you may change is using a different pure polish in place of Deep Crystal #2, something like: #7 - Show Car Glaze -or- #81- Hand Polish
Wash: Gold Class
Prep: DC #1
Polish: #7
Wax: Gold Class liquid
Now, if I buy a PC will I still be able to use these products, or will I need something that I can apply/remove by machine?
Also, from what I've read it seems it's best to apply cleaners & polish by machine, then remove them by hand and it's best to apply wax by hand and remove by machine. Is this correct?
Keep in mind a rotary takes practice on a test panel, not on a vehicle you care about. Without practice a rotary can cause damage to the paint. Where a PC is very safe and can be used with little to no experience right out of the box.
I have an old 4x4 that's bounced off alot of trees. I think I'll learn on that.
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Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
I kind of mentioned it in my above post, your hand application process sounds good, about the only thing you may change is using a different pure polish in place of Deep Crystal #2, something like: #7 - Show Car Glaze -or- #81- Hand Polish
Originally posted by ScreamingTaco View PostThe PC is the G100A, right?
It's in the works. After doing some reading I'm also considering a rotary tool.
But as mentioned PorscheGuy the PC is a great 'next step'.
Keep in mind a rotary takes practice on a test panel, not on a vehicle you care about. Without practice a rotary can cause damage to the paint. Where a PC is very safe and can be used with little to no experience right out of the box.
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Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
Yes, a G100A is the same as the 7424, 7336, etc. The G100A has the lifetime warranty, but I've never heard of a PC actually failing. Joe still has the original one he bought fifteen years ago and it still works.
I've been contemplating getting a rotary this summer, but we'll see how business is going. Rotaries are more powerful and I just don't know if I will be able to find the time to practice. As of now, my PC is doing just fine, but there will always be those details where a rotary would be very handy.
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Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
The PC is the G100A, right?
It's in the works. After doing some reading I'm also considering a rotary tool.
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Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
Please, if you get tired of working by hand, get a PC!!! I early on wasted $40 on an orbital only to discover that it really isn't more effective than working by hand. I bought a PC about three months ago and I really like it a lot. You can really remove quite a few blemishes. Save up and by a PC, unless you don't want to spend the money.
An orbital will apply it a little faster and save you some arm strength, but that's about all the advantages. PC's can apply product (and use a LOT less) faster, use more agressive products, and reveal some fantastic results.
However, if you are just removing minor defects, you might want something a little cheaper. Although, with a PC, you can remove more defects that could arise.
Just a thought...
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Re: Detailing black.... looking to take it to the next level.
Originally posted by gb387 View Post1. I assume you are going to be working by hand, right?
2. Are there any swirls or scratches you are trying to remove?
1) Only until I get around to getting a tool. After polishing the truck by hand a few times I'm about ready to move on.
2) No.... so far I've had nothing that I haven't been able to get out by hand.
Despite what I said above I'm quite willing to use hand tools and what-no, but I'd rather leave the more aggressive stuff to the professionals.
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