Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
Thanks for the advice guys, just a question how long do you have to work the product in for lets say #80 and #83 on rotary at 1300-1500rpm.
For RO you need to work it in for few mins but rotary is completely different. Also what products should I be looking out of the professional line to be using the rotary to correct paint.
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Rotarys Dangerous?
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Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
Originally posted by Coupe View PostMy opinion anything paint correction related is if you can get the paint as close to perfect as safely possible then it dosent matter how you got there.
Originally posted by Coupe View PostI would love to have someone show me how you guys do vertical panels. I can do horizontal panels with your technique but not horizontal.
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Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
My opinion anything paint correction related is if you can get the paint as close to perfect as safely possible then it dosent matter how you got there. I would love to have someone show me how you guys do vertical panels. I can do horizontal panels with your technique but not horizontal.
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Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
You can place a bead anywhere and pick it up with your RB if you have the room for your pad, it's just a matter of practice and technique... at that same time if you can develop a method that works for you and you don't get splatter everywhere then that's perfectly okay too.
On narrow panels like A-Pillars, one method is to spread the product you want to use around by hand and then coming back and buffing the panel with the RB. Not a perfect method but when the goal is to get the job done sometimes you have to do work arounds.
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Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
I start at 600rpm and spread it and then bump it up to my desired rpm for a few passes then bump it back down to 600 rpm for a few and voila, perfect finish.
If the panel is straight up and down whatever you put on the surface will run imediately. I dont even understand how you get it out of the bottle and onto the surface.
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Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
Originally posted by Coupe View PostWell i *blot* it on the section im doing so there isnt enough to sling but enough to give the pad lubrication.
I still dont see how you do it on panels that are straight up and down.
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Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
Originally posted by TH0001 View PostI get sling if I apply it to the pad. I do it the same way or a vertical panel, just move a little quicker so the product doesn't run.
Well i *blot* it on the section im doing so there isnt enough to sling but enough to give the pad lubrication.
I still dont see how you do it on panels that are straight up and down.
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Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
Originally posted by Coupe View PostIts fine you guys do it that way but you cant do the on vertical panels. Since you guys seem to only do it this way how do you do vertical panels?
I always apply my compound/polish to the pad, vertical panel and horizontal. Never had a problem doing it this way, dont know why i would either. Ever since i started doing it this way there is no more slinging.
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Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
Thanks, and I'm sticking with the Mike Phillip's method,(no matter how much Meguiar's pays you to act like you didn't invent it)
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Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
Its fine you guys do it that way but you cant do the on vertical panels. Since you guys seem to only do it this way how do you do vertical panels?
I always apply my compound/polish to the pad, vertical panel and horizontal. Never had a problem doing it this way, dont know why i would either. Ever since i started doing it this way there is no more slinging.
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Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
Originally posted by TH0001 View PostHere I drew up some quick sketches real quick to explain what I was saying .
Nice work!
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Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
Originally posted by TH0001 View Post
For picking up product on a pad, I use Mike Phillip's method he showed us at the Tamp Roadshow last year.
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Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
Here I drew up some quick sketches real quick to explain what I was saying (don't laugh)
In the second one, you can see you are actually making a slight angle for your first pass over the bead. The bottom pad, flipped over, shows how you should pick the bead into the pad, to avoid any dry buffing. The pad on the far right is your starting position, then you move across the white bead of product to pick it up at a slight angle, ending in the position on the left.
If you had to pick up the bead vertically, you would pick it up at the 1:30 area, and finsh just after 6 oclock.
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Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
There is some very interesting information in this thread, thanks for typing all that up Mike!
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Re: Rotarys Dangerous?
Heat is an unwanted by product of the buffing process. I guess certain paints may "soften" when heated, thus making them easier to correct, but I would rather have no head, and thus no potential for burning the paint.
When you buff, your goal is to leave behind a level paint surface that will inturn reflect light to its fullest potential.
For picking up product on a pad, I use Mike Phillip's method he showed us at the Tamp Roadshow last year. Lay a bead, about 8 inches long (or so) on the panel and tilt the end of the pad up. If you visualize the pad like a clock, with 12 o'clock straight up, 3 o'clock to your right, 6 o'clock straight down, or 9 o'clock due left, you want to pick the bead up at 10:30. As make your intial pass, you want to finish picking the bead up at 4:30, so that you made a slight angle relative to the bead, sucking the product into the pad evenly.
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