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removing discoloration from a 1996 MB E320

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  • removing discoloration from a 1996 MB E320

    I have a White 1996 Mercedes E320 that has a tendency to take on a yellowish tinge and I am interested in what would be required to restore the paint and remove the oxidation and yellow tinge.

    Any help on this would be appreciated.

  • #2
    Re: removing discoloration from a 1996 MB E320

    When you say a tendancy, do you mean it comes and goes? Or is kind of getting dirtier looking as time goes on?
    2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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    • #3
      Re: removing discoloration from a 1996 MB E320

      orangeduckman: I have a customer with a pearl white Caddy that tends to yellow as well. I don't know if that is contaminants in the air, but I see the car once a year and do the following:

      #83 with an 8006 pad for swirl removal
      #21 with an 9006 pad for final finish

      This seems to remove that yellowish cast to the pearl white for several months.

      I've seen a pearl white Audi with that same goofy tint as well.

      Totoland Mach
      Card carrying Wax-aholic

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      • #4
        Re: removing discoloration from a 1996 MB E320

        Originally posted by oregonduckman View Post
        I have a White 1996 Mercedes E320 that has a tendency to take on a yellowish tinge and I am interested in what would be required to restore the paint and remove the oxidation and yellow tinge.

        Any help on this would be appreciated.
        Could it be the lighting conditions?

        Do you know if the car has a clear coat finish?

        How to test for a clear coat finish


        Chances are good if this is the factory paint that it's clear coated and if this is true then what you're working on is clear paint, not white paint.

        This being true, your goal and everyone's goal as it relates to restoring a finish to show room new condition is to make the clear coat as clear as possible to expose the true color of the base coat to your eyes.

        If the paint on your Mercedes-Benz has a clear coat and also has a yellow tinge, then you need to use a paint cleaner like ScratchX to remove whatever the stain or contaminant is on the surface of the clear coat and to whatever level the substances has penetrated into the microscopic surface imperfections of the finish.

        If the clear is truly tinted yellow then you should be able to take ScratchX and clean a small section, say about 8" square and then compare this area to the adjacent areas and see a visual difference, as in the area you work should reveal a white color as nothing in on the clear coat in that area affecting the view of the white paint under the clear and the areas surrounding the area you cleaned should still have the yellow tinge you say you're seeing.

        Does that make sense?
        Mike Phillips
        760-515-0444
        showcargarage@gmail.com

        "Find something you like and use it often"

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        • #5
          Re: removing discoloration from a 1996 MB E320

          Oregonduckman:

          Are you from Eugene? The heart of Oregon Duck territory? The football team sort of tanked it this year. But "Go Ducks" basketball team, defeating #1 UCLA. Too bad about USC.

          As Mike states, if it is a clear coat finish, which most likely it is then you are dealing with the top layer of clear polyurethane enamel, and not paint with pigment. Keep in mind that this layer of clear is only about 1.5 to possibly 2.0mils thick, that is 1/1000th of an inch.

          How thick is that? A garbage bag is 0.95 mils thick.

          If you have problems of any kind on the clear layer then you should follow a three step process:

          a. Correction
          b. Swirl Removing/Polishing
          c. Protection

          CORRECTION

          This is best accomplished with a rotary buffer at no more than 1000rpm; a foam cutting pad and start with a micro-fine finishing compound. If this does not produce results move to a poly-wool blend cutting pad and you should get the results you want. Should that not work then go back to the foam cutting pad and move up to a light compound.

          SWIRL REMOVAL/POLISH

          Use the same buffer at about 800 to 1000rpm; a foam polishing pad and a good swirl remover/polish to bring layer to a smooth, high shine.

          PROTECTION

          By orbital waxer or by hand apply a good coat of wax or paint sealant. The paint sealant is the better choice because it should go on easier and come off easier and it leaves longer protection.

          Hope that helps. If you cannot do it yourself, not having the skill, knowledge equipment, pads or chemicals use a professional detailer, but be sure he can tell you the three step process I described. Many detailers call themselves professionals but do not have the knowledge, tools, pads or chemicals to do things correctly.

          Let us know how it comes out.

          Regards
          Bud Abraham

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