#7

[Rowen]

Guys,

In order to achieve good results with #7, what is recommended method of achieving this?
apply by hand? then use the ultimate bonnet to buff off?..

[redlude]

Well for a start, the most important thing is that the surface is prepped properly. Wash, clay, and maybe even use a cleaner/polisher, before applying #7.

You only need to apply a thin layer, and make sure you work it into the finish, i.e. don't simply wipe it on.

The product doesn't dry, so you can go around the entire car applying #7 in one step.

When you're finished, just go around the car with a MF towel but don't try to remove the glaze all at once. Instead, try to "break" the film while going around the car. Then repeat to remove the remaing film.

Here's a nice write-up by Mike Phillips on the proper use of #7.

By machine, the job would probably be easier, but I don't think it will produce better results than by hand.

[Tim Lingor]

Re: #7

Originally posted by Rowen
Guys,

In order to achieve good results with #7, what is recommended method of achieving this?
apply by hand? then use the ultimate bonnet to buff off?..

Hey,

If you are using #7, then I would apply and remove it by hand. You could apply it using the PC, but that pad will gum up quicky, making it a little more difficult. Another option is to use #81 Hand Polish which is also a pure polish but is a little easier to work with.

Now with that said, there is many methods of applying #7. For years, I have applied it to one panel at a time, then removed it with a MF towel or a 100% cotton towel. Because it is a pure polish that does not dry (it will skim over), just apply it thoroughly (Read: work it in really well) in a really thin but uniform coat, then remove. Or you may prefer using Mike's method. Whichever one works best for you!

Tim

[Mike Phillips]

That's actually a write-up I wrote back in about 1991 and it's full of grammatical errors, spelling errors and even some technique errors...

I have since re-written it, although I don't remember that it's 100% complete, but it's close. I'll try to resurrect it and post it here.

As for technique, I think everyone covered it pretty well,

• * Surface has to be clean and smooth as though it were prepped for wax.
  * Apply a thin coat and work it in gently
  * Remove using either a soft 100% cotton terry cloth towel or a microfiber with a nap.
  * When you wipe it off, don't worry about getting it all the way off with the first pass, just get most of it off.
  * Remove whatever you don't get off during the first pass, during the second and even third pass.
  * If you're going to apply a wax afterwards, you don't have to concentrate on removing 100% of it, just get most of it off and then go to your choice of wax.

This product by the way has been around since as near as I can find out since the early 1930's. Maybe earlier, it's hard to find this kind of information because most of the people that would know are not around any longer.





It was originally called Sealer and Reseal Glaze, but the name was changed sometime in the 1990's to avoid confusion with paint sealants, and to also reflect what it is most commonly used for and that's to glaze a car's paint finish before placing the car on show or display.








This is a cylinder bottle probably from the 1960's.