New HHR

[Foxyone]

Again, I really appreciate the help and direction!!!
Hopefully last question..what about doing all of this in temps that will be about 45 - 50 degrees? Too cold?

[Jeff Smith]

Well, My experience stops right there. I have been at this, allbeit hard core, since June. As I matter of fact I put this post of just yesterday:

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9751

Now just from what I have seen from others, my thoughts are yes. And as you can see from the post I just put up, I plan on doing it as well.

I think other factors come into play as far as how long you can actually wrok the products and the cure times of the waxes. But yes it is entirely doable but a liitle reasearch and a couple of posts will likely give you the answers to get your comfort level up.

2HotFord up in Canada details all year long. Gets great results.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Foxyone
Again, I really appreciate the help and direction!!!
Hopefully last question..what about doing all of this in temps that will be about 45 - 50 degrees? Too cold?

Working on paint belwo 50degrees is pushing the limit for getting good results, from experinece it isn't going to be very fun either...

Here's some information from Meguiar's FAQ,

http://meguiars.com/faq/

4. What temperature ranges are best for applying cleaners, polishes, and waxes degrees

When we talk about surface temperatures, we need to consider three factors:

• Surface Temperature
• Ambient Temperature
• Relative Humidity
• Surface Temperature (Actual surface temperature of the vehicle)

The best surface temperature range for applying cleaners, polishes, and protectants is approximately 60 degrees to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. More importantly, the surface does not feel warm or hot to the touch.

Basically, when you're working within this temperature range, it's not too cold, and it's not too warm to realize exceptional results from just about any Meguiar's product.

Meguiar's products will work easily within a much broader temperature range, such as, 50 degrees to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, but guaranteed best results will be achieved in the 60 degrees to 80 degrees range.

Ambient Temperature (Outside temperature)
Ambient temperature is the room temperature or the temperature of the surrounding environment. It's easily possible to have between 10 to 50 degrees difference in ambient temperature compared to surface temperature. This can make the difference between a product that's easy to work with, or hard to work with. Keep in mind, the hotter the ambient temperature, the quicker products will dry.

Humidity (Moisture in the air)
Simply put, humidity is moisture in the air. Technically there is Relative Humidity and Absolute Humidity, but as it relates to:

• Applying
• Working with
• Curing, drying, hazing
• Wipe-off or removal of car care products.

The simple explanation of moisture in the air, or more specifically, the amount of moisture in the air is the major factor, which will affect how easily or potentially difficult a product will be to work with, or a procedure will be to perform.

Low humidity, in warm to hot temperatures, will act to cause liquids to evaporate and dry more quickly. This can make a product difficult to work with or decrease the amount of time the product remains easily workable on the surface.

High humidity in cold temperatures can make products hard to work because it can dramatically increase the amount of time necessary for the product to cure, dry or haze (depending on which product you're using).

Low humidity in low temperatures tends not to be a factor in working with, cure times, and when applying and in the removal of cleaners, polishes, and protectants (Low temperatures are a factor, but not low humidity in low temperatures).

High humidity in high temperatures tends not to be a factor in working with, cure times, and when applying and in the removal of cleaners, polishes, and protectants (High temperatures are a factor, but not high humidity in high temperatures)

Extreme temperatures, both cold and hot will make any product more difficult to work with.

Direct sunlight
Direct sunlight will dramatically increase the surface temperature compared to ambient temperatures and make cleaners, polishes and protectants extremely more difficult to apply, work and remove.

Air current/Wind
Air current/air flow, or windy conditions will act to increase the evaporation speed and potentially making some products more difficult to apply, work, or remove. In some cases this can be a bonus, helping a wax to cure/dry more quickly.

Summary
The best conditions for using cleaners, polishes and protectants on automotive paints would be in a cool place, out of direct sunlight, in a surface temperature range between 60 degrees and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with comfortable to low humidity, with a light breeze to create the perfect conditions for detailing your car's finish.

Common sense and a good rule-of-thumb is to avoid applying any product if the surface is too warm to touch with the palm of your hand comfortably.

50 degrees Fahrenheit = 10.0 degrees Celsius
90 degrees Fahrenheit = 32.2 degrees Celsius

[Jeff Smith]

Good put Mike,
I guess I should restate here and say can it be done? Yes. Is it recommended? Not necessarily.

Do I plan on doing it? Yes but in a very limited fashion as opposed to my normal "warmer weather" routines.

[Murr1525]

I have found the A-12 cleaner wax works well in colder (though still above freezing I think) weather, so I always keep some of that around if nothing else. I hope ColorX is as good in the cold.

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Originally posted by Jeff Smith
As far as your wax application, Something I have noticed from a few folks I have let use my PCs is that they want to try to work the wax into the finish. I mean they will keep buffing until there is nothing left to buff. I come over and see them doing this and explain that all they need to do is make sure the finish has wax on it. Make sure it is adequately covered then move on along. There is no need to get carried away. Sometimes it seems folks want to get the cleaning and polishing done ASAP and then work the heck out of the wax.

Agreed. A simpler way to put this would be "Only so much wax can contact the paint at a time.... working it in won't change that."

Each coat of wax you apply WILL have some wasted product in terms of residuals, but overall the results will be good without trying to NOT have excess.

[Jeff Smith]

Originally posted by Shiny Lil Detlr
Agreed. A simpler way to put this would be "Only so much wax can contact the paint at a time.... working it in won't change that."

Each coat of wax you apply WILL have some wasted product in terms of residuals, but overall the results will be good without trying to NOT have excess.

As for the wax step. I have seen others go to 2 separate extremes.

1. While applying with a PC they will overapply. Meaning they will keep working the wax until they have actually done nothing more than put it on and taken it back off. They leave nothing.

2. When removing the wax they think they will get more out of it if they continually buff a surface that has no wax left on it.

I guess when folks get a PC in there hands all conventional thinking of wax application & removal go out the window. The same principles apply when doing it with a machine or by hand. In other words, wax on/wax off. I think anything above and beyond that tend to negate the benefit of using the machine.

I rather enjoy it when I invite a friend over to work on their car. I usually throw them on a PC pretty quick. I will demonstrate on a 2'x2' area then hand them the PC and a bottle of product and let them get to work. Then I actually walk away and grab a puff from a cigar and sip some coffee while they have at it. I leave them alone and let them get accusomed to the feel of the machine before I start tweaking their methods. When I come back I generaly see one of the 2 extremes above. Then it's time to show them again with a better explanation. But, I find the best thing to do is leave them alone with the PC for a few minutes from the start. let them get over any fear and awkwardness with the machine before trying to teach them what to do with it.

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Originally posted by Jeff Smith
I rather enjoy it when I invite a friend over to work on their car. I usually throw them on a PC pretty quick. I will demonstrate on a 2'x2' area then hand them the PC and a bottle of product and let them get to work. Then I actually walk away and grab a puff from a cigar and sip some coffee while they have at it. I leave them alone and let them get accusomed to the feel of the machine before I start tweaking their methods. When I come back I generaly see one of the 2 extremes above. Then it's time to show them again with a better explanation. But, I find the best thing to do is leave them alone with the PC for a few minutes from the start. let them get over any fear and awkwardness with the machine before trying to teach them what to do with it.

Hehe I see the same thing with teaching people to use the rotary. Yesterday I was working with a buddy of mine on his car. He's got extensive experience with the PC, but is/was scared to death of the rotary. So I handed it to him to go buff on some water spot etching on his trunk. After I came back, I saw him really bearing down on the machine, running it at almost top speed, and tipping the pad at an angle.

After I showed him the holograms he was leaving, I proceded to inform him that unlike with the PC, he needed to just let the machine's weight do the work, and to keep the pad flat on the surface running at a slower speed. Since he already felt how the machine had to be maneuvered to keep it on the surface without skipping, it was easy for him to adjust to it.