wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

[x007]

Hi all,

I'm looking to wet sand my car that have a fresh clear on it (dupond),

What's the best way to do it ?
I'm do paint but my knowledge on buffing is limited a bit..

I'm going to buy the Meguiar DA polisher but need to know what to use (pad, chemical) whit it and each step..

Currently i have enough 3m paper 1000, 1500, 2000 to do the job, all the rest i'm going to buy it from Meguiar.

So here what i think to do ;
Wet sand orange peel and defect whit 1000
then 1500 then whit 2000.

What to use after, is this the good way for the sanding ? , i want a show finish, price dont care...?
I know its hard to do, i do body and want to learn to make a great buffing job on my car.

Hope someone can clearly bring me all the step/product to use.

Thank you.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

Well in a nutshell,

You want to wet-sand with your choice of starting papers, some guys start with #1000, others start with #1200 and others start with #1500, regardless of where you start, what's more important is where you finish, you want to finish with at least #2000, this will make buffing out the sanding marks easier and faster.

When you go to buff out the sanding marks, you want to start with a wool pad to benefit from the extra cutting power the wool fibers offer in and of themselves and an aggressive compound.

We have just launched our Solo System and you might want to give it a try.

Otherwise you'll want a compound for your first cut and then one or two cleaner/polishes for your final polishing work to remove the sanding marks.

What do you have for pads and chemicals right now?

[MaximusZTS]

Re: wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

You may want to look in to the So1o System.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

I'm going to buy the Meguiar DA polisher but need to know what to use (pad, chemical) whit it and each step..

You need a rotary buffer to remove the sanding marks, the G100 would be for the last machine step of removing the swirls left by the rotary buffer, but for removing sanding marks, i.e. removing paint you're going to need something with some power and that tool my friend is the rotary buffer.

[x007]

Re: wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

hi Mike,

I have a nikota 6 speed adjustable that should do the trick ?
If i understand well,
- wet sand up to 2000, 2500 better ?

- Using my nikota (what speed?) whit a wool pad and what compond M85 or M04 (m04 only on 16oz ? )

- Then finishing whit the G100 what chemical/ pad ?

The solo, there is a kit or ? what i need exactly?
i'm looking on it right now..

You need a rotary buffer to remove the sanding marks, the G100 would be for the last machine step of removing the swirls left by the rotary buffer, but for removing sanding marks, i.e. removing paint you're going to need something with some power and that tool my friend is the rotary buffer.

[x007]

Re: wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

...

[x007]

Re: wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

chezz.. i cant post the list..

What about hand or machine sanding ?
is M86 considered agressive or i need another compound..?

After some reading , other questions,

The G100 is used only whit the M80 right ?
About the coumpound, when buffing whit the wool pad how mutch coumpound
i need ? applyed in light coat on the body like a wax or on the pad itself? ,
is this have to be wet or buff until drying ?
you bring me near to what i need thank you
the more info i have the better it is.

Is these step ok for me ;
Defect Removal
1) Set buffer to approximately 1800 - 2000 RPM's.
2) Choose appropriate SOLO System Buffing Pad.
Wool Heavy Cutting Pad (WWHC7)
3) Prime new or dry pad with Final Inspection (M34).
4) Apply Cut & Polish Cream (M86) directly to properly cured paint finish,
and begin working in a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure and overlapping passes.
Continue working until sanding marks and severe defects are removed.
5) Clean pad frequently.
Use a wool pad spur or compressed air

Final Polishing
1) Set buffer to approximately 1400-1800 RPM's.
2) Choose appropriate SOLO System Foam Buffing Pad.

What pad to use ???

Diamond" Foam Polishing Pad (WDFP7)
Diamond" Foam Finishing Pad (WDFF7)
3) Prime new or dry pad with M34 Final Inspection.
4) Apply Cut & Polish Cream (M86) directly to properly cured paint finish,
and begin working in a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure and overlapping passes.
Continue working until show car quality finish appears.
5) Clean pad frequently.
Use a soft nylon bristle brush or microfiber towel

For extreme gloss, follow with a DA polisher application of
M80 Speed Meguiar's foam pad (what pad # ???) .

Part neeeded ;
G100
Mirror Glaze Sanding Backing Pad (E7200)
SOLO Easy Buff Backing Plate (W66)
SOLO Cut & Polish Cream (M86)
SOLO Wool Heavy Cutting Pad (WWHC7)
SOLO Diamond Foam Polishing Pad (WDFP7)
SOLO Diamond Foam Finishing Pad (WDFF7)
Meguiar's Supreme Shine Microfiber (X2010)
Mirror Glaze Final Inspection (M34)
Mirror Glaze High Tech Wash (M00)
Mirror Glaze Speed Glaze (M80)

[Mike Phillips]

Re: wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

See my replies in blue...

chezz.. i cant post the list..

What about hand or machine sanding ?
Machine sanding is easier and the sanding marks will buff out easier.


is M86 considered aggressive or i need another compound..?
Not aggressive, it's a one step compound and polish, you can't have a super aggressive d that also polishes out with stellar results. This is why the key to getting good results with the Solo System is finishing with a fine grit paper for the last sanding step, #1500 by machine and #2000 by hand.

After some reading , other questions,

The G100 is used only whit the M80 right ?
No, the G100 can be used with all of our cleaner/polishes in the Professional Line, #2 Fine Cut Cleaner, all of the pure polishes in our Professional Line, all of our waxes in the Professional Line and all of the paint care products in the Consumer Line.


About the compound, when buffing whit the wool pad how much compound
i need ? applied in light coat on the body like a wax or on the pad itself? ,
You need an 'ample' amount, not too much, not too little, experience gained from trial and error is the best teacher. Most people apply a strip of product to the surface and then pick up their strip of product while the pad is spinning on the buffer.


is this have to be wet or buff until drying ?
You never buff to a dry buff, when you do you have lost lubricity on the surface and the potential to start instilling swirls and also burning paint increase.


you bring me near to what i need thank you
the more info i have the better it is.


Is these step ok for me ;
Defect Removal
1) Set buffer to approximately 1800 - 2000 RPM's.
1300 to 1700 rpm, if you're not a seasoned professional slower speeds are easier to control the buffer and help you to prevent a mistake.


2) Choose appropriate SOLO System Buffing Pad.
Wool Heavy Cutting Pad (WWHC7)
Yes.

3) Prime new or dry pad with Final Inspection (M34).
Yes.

4) Apply Cut & Polish Cream (M86) directly to properly cured paint finish,
and begin working in a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure and overlapping passes.
Yes.

Continue working until sanding marks and severe defects are removed.
Or until you begin to run out of product on the surface. Don't buff to a dry buff, if needed, stop, wipe off spent product and re-apply more and continue buffing.


5) Clean pad frequently - Use a wool pad spur or compressed air
Spur works best, compressed air could cause something to fly into your eyes.

Final Polishing
1) Set buffer to approximately 1400-1800 RPM's.
1000 to 1600 rpm, depending upon your preferences, skill and experience with the paint you're working on.


2) Choose appropriate SOLO System Foam Buffing Pad.
Yes.


What pad to use ???
Diamond" Foam Polishing Pad (WDFP7)
Diamond" Foam Finishing Pad (WDFF7)

Your choice, the yellow Diamond" Foam Polishing Pad (WDFP7), works really well in most cases.

3) Prime new or dry pad with M34 Final Inspection.
Yes.

4) Apply Cut & Polish Cream (M86) directly to properly cured paint finish,
and begin working in a 2' x 2' area using moderate pressure and overlapping passes.
Yes.


Continue working until show car quality finish appears.
5) Clean pad frequently.
Use a soft nylon bristle brush or microfiber towel
Yes.

For extreme gloss, follow with a DA polisher application of
M80 Speed Meguiar's foam pad (what pad # ???) .

W-8006 foam polishing pad

Part neeeded ;
G100
Mirror Glaze Sanding Backing Pad (E7200)
SOLO Easy Buff Backing Plate (W66)
SOLO Cut & Polish Cream (M86)
SOLO Wool Heavy Cutting Pad (WWHC7)
SOLO Diamond Foam Polishing Pad (WDFP7)
SOLO Diamond Foam Finishing Pad (WDFF7)
Meguiar's Supreme Shine Microfiber (X2010)
Mirror Glaze Final Inspection (M34)
Mirror Glaze High Tech Wash (M00)
Mirror Glaze Speed Glaze (M80)
W-8006 Foam Polishing Pad

[x007]

Re: wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

Thank you mike !!

Last thing i need to know,
about machine sanding, does i can use a 6" orbital sender like we use mostly for primer etc..? or a sqare flat sender ?
If yes what paper to use ?
The paper i have for 1000/1500/2000 are in half sheet not round
for a sander, and i have looked here and i cant find over 600 in "stickit" for round orbital ?

Thank you for all your help, i will place an order for all this !

See my replies in blue...

[Mike Phillips]

Re: wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

One option is to invest in a 3M Hookit interface pad and some Trizact sanding papers with the hook-it backing so they'll attach to your DA sander, (the round one). You'll want to seek out a PBE store and if they don't care these things they can certainly order them for you. Here in the U.S. a case of #1500 grit Trizact papers and a Hookit backing pad cost approximately $80.00 but the time it will save you overall to not only sand but also buff out your sanding marks will be well worth it.

If you dry sand, you'll load your papers up fairly quickly and instill pigtails, also their are probably substances in the clear paint that will become airborne that you won't want to breath, so if you do dry sand by machine make sure you wear the proper safety gear.

You can avoid the airborne particles and your papers will last longer if you wet sand by machine, plus you're sanding marks tend to buff out a little easier.

Sanding down an entire car and then machine buffing to remove the sanding marks, working the finish all the way up to perfection is a ton of work.

Hat's off to you, make sure to share some before and after pictures when you're finished.

[x007]

Re: wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

thank you mike.

i will try wet sand whit machine..

this is what you talk about that fit on the G100 right ? ;

3M™ Hookit™ II Finishing Film Discs Grade P1500, PN 00850*
*Use with 3M™ Hookit™ II Painter's Disc Pad. PN 05286


I will post pictures for sure no prob.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

Yes, the Hookit backing plate will attach to the G100 but you can't wet sand with it because it's powered by electricity.

You need to use an air-powered DA Sander and you need a fairly large capacity air compressor to maintain a large volume of air flow over time in order to run the sander and sand down your car.

Have you ever done any of this before?

Don't wet sand with an electric tool, you might not be back to share the after pictures.

[x007]

Re: wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

Ok thanks,
I will use my Hutchkis orbital sander (air powered).
I have a 80Gal + 60gal tank whit a 5hp dual stage compressor rated to work 24h/day, i paint & clear my car etc myself in my garage

See some pics here of actual paint : http://www.fbody.ca/photos/main.php?...&g2_itemId=719

thank you.

Yes, the Hookit backing plate will attach to the G100 but you can't wet sand with it because it's powered by electricity.

You need to use an air-powered DA Sander and you need a fairly large capacity air compressor to maintain a large volume of air flow over time in order to run the sander and sand down your car.

Have you ever done any of this before?

Don't wet sand with an electric tool, you might not be back to share the after pictures.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

That's some pretty wild art work you did, we're impressed, now we know why you want to sand and buff out the finish to a mirror shine.








Where abouts in Canada do you live?

[x007]

Re: wet sanding orange peel & clear defect

Thank you,
I'm in Quebec, near Ottawa (140km from it).

Thats not me that have done the airbrush btw..
Its a guy i know that do airbrush since 20+ year that do it.. Took 4 days 9am to 10pm for all the airbrush from scratch.
I'm pretty poor myself whit graphics

i'm going to order all my part today for the buffing, i'm looking at bestbuy right now..

I'm going to put another very heavy clear coat on it before buffing it, what is the best time after clear to wetsand/polish ? As i see 2 or 3 days after the clear ?

and thank you again for your help very appreciated.