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Thread: wet sanding runs n drips w/ the sanding block

          
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    wet sanding runs n drips w/ the sanding block

    on my rear bumper (clear coat) abt 6 months old paint repainted , there are minor runs n drips now i have been told to use the sanding block but what grit also i have a da and 83 with 8006 pads is that agressive enough to remove the block sanding marks

    i hear u can use the 00 car wash as lube will nxt car was work as well ?

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    #00 is the best stuff for mixing up a wetsanding solution because it's extra slippery. I'm sure NXT would be better than most other soaps but I'd stick with #00 myself. Soak the blocks well (overnight works great). Heck, you can store them in the solution.

    Which block would work best will depend on how hard your paint is and how tall the runs are. I wish I knew a rule of thumb to give you. Maybe someone with more experience out there can chime in.

    The Unigrit blocks go up to #2000 and I don't think #83 with a W8006 and a DA machine will take out #2000 sanding scratch. Maybe following up with #3000 Unigrit paper and keeping your working area really small will do it? Maybe working the area with ScratchX by hand before switching to the DA?


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    Re: wet sanding runs n drips w/ the sanding block

    Originally posted by WhiteCamaro88
    i have been told to use the sanding block

    but what grit also i have a da and 83 with 8006 pads is that agressive enough to remove the block sanding marks
    I recommended the sanding block as a possible solution. The normal accepted way to remove sanding marks is with a rotary buffer. Whether or not you can remove your sanding marks using M83 with the dual action polisher, I actually answered this for you in your first threas on this subject...

    http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sho...&threadid=8989

    Originally posted by Mike Phillips
    If the paint is still soft you "might" be able to remove sanding marks with a dual action polisher.

    Besides our Nikken Finishing Papers, we also have these sanding blocks just for runs, drips, d.i.p. etc.

    http://meguiars.com/?pro-blocks/Sanding-Blocks




    You can ask Nick about his experience removing sanding marks, his is a different situation, but in the same idea he tried to remove sanding marks by hand and then we were able to get most of them using a G100


    From this thread,

    http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/sho...0&pagenumber=4


    The rear bumper on the Beetle had been damaged and Nick filled in the affected areas with touch-up paint and then sanded the area to smooth the paint out to more or less match the appearance of the surrounding paint. After sanding and then attempting to remove his sanding marks, he found he was able to remove them out of the touch-up paint, (soft paint), but he could not remove them out of the factory clear coat, (hard paint).

    Thus one of the reasons for attending Meguiar's Saturday Detailing Class.

    There were three areas he worked on, we took a picture but the sanding marks don't show up although they could easily be seen with the naked eye.




    Meguiar's has always taught and continues to teach the philosophy of,

    "Always use the least aggressive product to get the job done"

    In keeping with the philosophy we decided to use the M80 Speed Glaze first, as this is a fairly light cleaner/polish plus it's very easy to work with. We know that if the M80 Speed Glaze proves to not be aggressive enough, we can always substitute a more aggressive product like the M83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish.




    After a few, well worked passes, 95% of the sanding marks were gone!




    The only marks that remained that were visible to the naked eye were so small that you had to know where to look to see them. Good work Nick! Nick was the last man standing and here's a shot of him leaving Meguiar's for San Diego...

    Mike Phillips
    Office: 800-869-3011 x206
    Mike.Phillips@Autogeek.net
    "Find something you like and use it often"

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