I'll spare you the details, but I committed a blunder by applying Meguiars #7 showcar glaze onto a hot surface (clearly stated on the label). I immediately removed it, but it left white streaks in the clearcoat. They can not be seen by looking directly onto the defect, only at an acute angle. I have been moderately aggressive in trying to polish them out, but no statisfactory visible improvement. The car was repainted two years ago with PPG basecoat/clearcoat system and always garaged kept. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Hey mac'smach1
Welcome to Meguiar's Online!
I would suggest re-applying the #7 Show Car Glaze but in the shade on a cool surface. If this does not do it, though it probably will, you will need to clean/polish the paint first with something like #9 Swirl Remover, then the #7 and the sealant/wax of your choice.
Please keep us posted!
Tim
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Hi mac'smach1,
Welcome to Meguiar's Online!
Sounds like you need to use either a cleaner/polish like the #9 Swirl Remover Tim recommended or a paint cleaner like either Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner or ScratchX, all three of these are fairly easy to find at most auto parts stores.
Apply any of them to the affected area or the entire car, work in gently and then remove, none of these products need to dry. Afterwards, it would be a good idea to either apply the #7 Show Car Glaze followed by a coat of wax, or just a coat of wax, the point is a paint cleaner will clean paint, remove defects and in the process also remove any wax, so keep this in mind.
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Thanks for the responses, they are greatly appreciated. My concern is that there was a chemical reaction (due to the heat) and the blemish is deep into the clearcoat. I already buffed with Meguiar's #7 and then Fine Cut and no luck. It does not appear to be on the surface or it would gone by now. I'm just not sure how far I can go before I'm through the clearcoat. It's right in the middle of the hood on my '65 (Senior AACA) Mustang FB. If it was on my daily driver I probably would not worry about it. Thanks again.
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Originally posted by mac'smach1
My concern is that there was a chemical reaction (due to the heat) and the blemish is deep into the clearcoat. I already buffed with Meguiar's #7 and then Fine Cut and no luck. It does not appear to be on the surface or it would gone by now. I'm just not sure how far I can go before I'm through the clearcoat.
The old formula for #2 Fine Cut Cleaner is for rotary buffer application only so I don't want you to get into trouble if you're hand applying this product. The new formula can be applied by hand, the instructions on the back will state how it can be applied and enable you to know which version you have.
#7 is a very safe product chemically speaking, the heat could have and probably did have a lot to do with this problem. Clear coat paints are typically pretty hard and pretty dense, I wouldn't think the damage would be very deep but more topical.
AT this point, if you are working by hand, I would suggest getting a tube of ScratchX and applying 2-3 applications to the area using a clean foam applicator pad. Work each application for 1-2 minutes or until the product turns kind of clear then remove it with a clean soft towel. After this apply a thin coat of the #7 and wipe off and then a coat of your favorite wax.
Another approach would be to machine clean and polish the area with either a dual action polisher or a rotary buffer and a light cleaner/polish like the M80 Speed Glaze.
If you e-mail me your phone number, I would be glad to discuss this in person. mphillips@meguiars.com
I'm getting ready to go wash a Corvette for a how-to article but I'll be checking my e-mail often.
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Hey,
Do you have some pictures you can post of the streaks? I would like to see what we are dealing with....
I would still give the #9 a shot, or the more aggressive ScratchX. Either one, you need to apply it, and really work it in until it is a light residue. Then remove with a MF towel.
Please post some pics of the area.... we will do our best to figure this out!
Tim
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Originally posted by mac'smach1
My concern is that there was a chemical reaction (due to the heat) and the blemish is deep into the clearcoat.FRANK CANNA
Mirror Finish Detailing
23rd Year 1986-2009
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I used my Dewalt 849 rotary sander/polisher with the #7 Show Car Glaze, Fine Cut and Cleaner & Wax. I have to admit I am very conservative (timid) when it comes to using this tool and kept the speed to around 1200-1500 RPM. I only have a black foam bonnet which I am told is for final polishing.
I bought a tube of the ScratchX and went on it six times by hand only, sometimes very aggressively to some of the worst areas, but no help. I will try to take a photograph of it, but will not be able to send until Monday. I am not sure it will show up in a photograph, but I will try.
Again, you can best see these things in the sunlight when looking at a very low angle to the surface. They are very, very hard to detect when the vehicle is not in the sunlight or at a high angle. My guess is that when looking at it directly there is not enough clearcoat thickness for the blemish to show, but at the low angle you are starting to look through the cross-section containing a much larger area. I forgot to mention my FB is painted dark green metallic. Thanks again for trying to help me.
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A couple of notes,
#7 is for hand application only, it doesn't work very well when applied with a rotary buffer and was never intended for, or formulated for application with this tool.
Same goes for our Meguiar's brand cleaner/wax, you didn't say which cleaner/wax you're using, but if it's in the maroon bottle, it is also for hand application.
#2 Fine Cut Cleaner is for application with a rotary buffer and if a couple of light passes with a foam pad on a rotary buffer didn't fix the problem, then this isn't a good sign as the #2 Fine Cut Cleaner applied with a rotary buffer should take care of anything that's light and topical.
Catalyzed clear coats are hard and dense, its very unlikely that #7 on the surface getting hot would stain into it for any measurable depth, it's just not that kind of product unless there is something wrong with the paint to start with.
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Originally posted by mac'smach1
I will try to take a photograph of it, but will not be able to send until Monday. I am not sure it will show up in a photograph, but I will try.
Again, you can best see these things in the sunlight when looking at a very low angle to the surface. They are very, very hard to detect when the vehicle is not in the sunlight or at a high angle. My guess is that when looking at it directly there is not enough clearcoat thickness for the blemish to show, but at the low angle you are starting to look through the cross-section containing a much larger area. I forgot to mention my FB is painted dark green metallic. Thanks again for trying to help me.
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I have tried dozens of different combinations with the products mentioned above, some finishing the process and some probably not. The bottom line is that the blemishes are imbedded in the clearcoat and some, if not all, will have to be removed and either reclearcoat or repaint the area or entire hood. I will take it back to my painter and ask for his opinion, before I totally ruin the hood. I will keep you informed and thanks for everyone's suggestions. Mac
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Hi Mac,
Nice talking with you on the phone, here's the links I told you about for using the rotary buffer.
Watch our how-to video here,
How to remove paint defects
Or you can purchase it here,
Professional Education Series Video
Here's the link and a picture of the W-8006 foam polishing pad.
Meguiar's W-8006 Foam Polishing Pad
And the backing plate for it,
Rotary Buffer Backing Plates
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