Gold Glass residue

[KLnyc]

Guys,

Does anyone after wash with GC, you get a dirt residue on a panels? I wonder what cause this? I hate to re wash over again, so I what did was I use those spray n wipe to get it out. I use 3oz on a 5 gallon bucket..btw.

thanks
ken

[Boss_429]

GC wash won't leave "dirt residue" on the paint. What you might be getting is a soap film from not mixing your wash correctly (too heavy) and/or by not rinsing well. Do the following...

Put about 3 1/2 gallons of water in your bucket.
Then put in 4 oz of GC wash. (measure it)
Hit it with the spray to work up some suds and end up with about 4 gallons of water in the bucket.
Dip your mitt in the bucket to get plenty of water and soap solution.
Starting from the top of the vehicle... working down, wash a panel and rinse thoroughly.

You won't have any "residue".

[Tim Lingor]

GC will not leave dirt residue. Are you washing and drying the car in the sun or in the shade? Is the paint's surface cool or fairly warm when you are washing it?


Tim

[travisdecpn]

Some things you may want to try when entering the rinse and drying stages:

1. Rinse from the top to the bottom with a full steam or spray to completely remove any dirt and soap on the surface after washing

2. After the initial rinse, go back over the whole car without a nozzle and extremely low pressure from the top to the bottom letting the water roll off the surface.

3. During the drying process use a QD and your WW towel to reduce the potential for marring, as well as limiting the presense of any left over soap residue.

[KLnyc]

Originally posted by 2hotford
GC will not leave dirt residue. Are you washing and drying the car in the sun or in the shade? Is the paint's surface cool or fairly warm when you are washing it?

Tim

Tim,

1st.. this town car is black and yes I work under hot sun. My 10x10 canopy its too small for this large beast.
2nd..Temp in NYC was 98deg and humid, so my assumption was the heat/humidity causing to dry up rapidly. I guessed that also causing the dry filming on the hood,door,etc.

[Tim Lingor]

Hey KLnyc

That is what I thought. In those cases, I would first use a strong spray to rinse the car and then follow this with the nozzle off and let the water just stream over the paint. This should help!

Tim

[rusty bumper]

Originally posted by Boss_429
GC wash won't leave "dirt residue" on the paint. What you might be getting is a soap film from not mixing your wash correctly (too heavy) and/or by not rinsing well. Do the following...

Put about 3 1/2 gallons of water in your bucket.
Then put in 4 oz of GC wash. (measure it)
Hit it with the spray to work up some suds and end up with about 4 gallons of water in the bucket.
Dip your mitt in the bucket to get plenty of water and soap solution.
Starting from the top of the vehicle... working down, wash a panel and rinse thoroughly.

You won't have any "residue".

I agree with Boss about the proper mixture ratio.

[KLnyc]

Okay guys I thank you very much. I'm going re-try all those above recommendations and see whats what.

[Mike Phillips]

Just to chime in...

Washing a car, especially a black or dark colored car in direct sunlight, when temperatures are high is asking for trouble, I know our Pilot is black and right not I have full-on sun starting at before 6:00am and lasting until about 8:30pm.

It's as though the person who designed our house did this intentionally!

This leave me with three options,

1) Wash at the crack of dawn
2) Wash at sundown
3) Wash in direct sunlight

While I try to do the first and second options, there have been times when I have to do option number three and wash in direct sunlight.

When I do wash in direct sunlight, I wash wheels and tires first, I know this sounds backwards, but if wash the body first, and then come back and wash the wheels and tires afterwards, I find myself inevitably getting water overspray back onto the painted panels that I've already washed and dried. This means re-washing the panes that get wet because by the time I finish each wheel and tire, I find the water overspray has dried already thus forcing me to re-wash the area to remove the water spotting and staining.

Anyway, when I have to wash in full sun, I wash wheels and tires first and then as I'm continuing to wash the body I continue to re-wet them with a spray from the hose so they don't dry and our chrome wheels get water spots. Then I wash section by section starting at the top and working downward.

I also reduce my work area in about half of what I normally would do and then rinse before the soap solution can dry. For the roof this means washing either the passenger side or the driver's side and then rinsing. Then washing the other side and then rinsing. Usually, if the sun wasn't a factor I would wash the entire roof and then rinse.

Same goes for the sides of the Pilot, when I would usually wash an entire side and then rinse, I now break it up into three sections, half of the front of one side, the other half of the back of one side and the lower section with the running board after the upper panels have been washed and rinsed.

The front gets broken into three sections also when usually it would be one. First the windshield, then the hood, then the front grill, bumper and lower panels. Front fenders get washed an rinsed on their own also. Last but least the back of the Pilot gets washed in one fell swoop.

Then as soon as the last spray of water flitters out of the hose nozzle, out come the Meguiar's Water Drying Magnets to remove the water before it can dry and leave any water spots.

Where I live the water is absolutely horrible and if left on a car's finish or any other surface will leave behind a Type 1 Water Spots, in fact the pictures of Type 1 Water Spots seen below are actually spots on our Pilot's finish that I allowed to happen so I could obtain the picture. In this case after completely washing and drying our Pilot, I then took the hose and sprayed water up into the air over the hood and allowed it to fall naturally and dry.



Then I snapped the photos for the below article which can be found in the Articles of Interest forum.

What helped me was to reduce my work area, dry the car immediately after washing. This means I have my drying towels ready to go and my RubberMaid step stool waiting in the wing. It's also very important to mix your car wash soap at the correct dilution levels or it will take longer and require more effort as well as water to completely rinse the soap solution/film off each panel. If you don't rinse your car wash solution completely off each panel, the sun will dry it onto the paint and it will look like a unsightly film, so remember, don't overuse your car wash soap, the chemist formulate it for the dilution recommended on the label.


~~~~~~~~~~~


There are two kinds of water spots,

1) Above Surface Mineral Deposits
2) Below Surface Water Spot Etchings


Type I Water Spots

Type I Water Spots are what Meguiar's refers to as Above Surface Bonded Contaminants. A Type I water spot is some type of deposit, often times a mineral deposit that was in the water source, sitting on top of the surface.

If you have Type I water spots, you can use either a clay bar or a paint cleaner like ScratchX by hand. Clay bars are for removing above surface defects and will typically do a good job of remove Type I water spots/deposits from off the surface. Sometimes you may have to follow the claying process with a paint cleaner like ScratchX to completely remove all traces of where the mineral deposits attached to the finish.

Type I Water Spots






Type II Water Spots - Deposits on the surface
Type II Water Spots are what Meguiar's refers to as Below Surface Defects. A Type II Water Spot is actually an etching in the surface where whatever was in the water was strong enough in it's chemical composition to actually eat or dissolve the paint and thus etch into the paint.

If you Type II Water Spots, you can use a paint cleaner by hand such as ScratchX, or a machine applied product such as a compound, paint cleaner, or cleaner/polish to machine clean the finish, removing a small amount of paint in an effort to level, or smooth out the finish. The goal is to remove just enough paint to level the surface with the lowest depths of the defect.

Just to be clear, removing Type II Water Spots means removing paint. As such, you are limited as to how much paint you can remove. In some cases you may want to check with a seasoned professional for their advise before attempting to remove below surface defects like Type II Water Spots.


Type II Water Spots - Etchings below the surface


Close-up of same photo above


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