Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

On the hood which is black. I notice a pretty good haze ahen i shine a light on it any tips?

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

And this was after U.P. i noticed it. And its noticable on all the parts with a clear coat. Used yellow pad with daps. I used that #7 on the single stage with out doing U.P. and thats really worked well! Good call lydia. Im alnost hesitant to evem touch anything else with U.P. unless im just doing it wrong.

[Lydia]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

Did the haze seem to get worse after applying the UP? Or was it already there and just didn't improve?

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

I didnt catch it till after i applied the polish i tried a small spot by hand to see if i could get rid of it that didnt seem to work

[Lydia]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

Limited time so pardon the brief answer.

That's great - I'm glad the #7 worked on the SS!

It sounds like you may be dealing with a pretty soft clear coat. You may also be putting a bit heavy pressure on the DAPS. Here's a couple suggestions:

1. Do another application of UP, but this time put pretty light pressure on the DAPS and move a little more quickly than you did with UC (if you've already tried that, move onto the next thing).
2. Try using UP with the black pad.

Another thing, how many pads do you have? Are you reusing a pad that you used with UC? You'll want a clean, fresh pad to use with UP.

I actually ran into some hazing or marring recently when buffing a Lexan Gold Wing Windshield (easy to scratch and hard to finish out). I was working with 3" pads on a DA, so the majority of the pads I was working with were unfortunately not Meguiar's. I tried #205 (pretty similar to UP), with the yellow pad from the DAPS system. That was still leaving hazing. After another recent experience working on some very soft black paint, I actually went to a stiffer pad (which I think had more cut than the yellow pad. I was mainly aiming for the stiffness). I can't explain why it worked, but it did, and it worked very well. I used a stiffer pad and light pressure, relatively quick arm speed, and it finished out very well and removed the hazing. All that to say, although it's counterintuitive and I don't know if it will work, if you have the maroon pad you could possibly give UP a try with that. Like I mentioned, the pad I was using was not a Meguiar's pad. I know the maroon pad has a decent amount of cut so it may not work. I would tend to think this would be more of a last resort, but it may be worth a try. The biggest thing is to use light pressure, IME just slightly more than what's needed to safely keep the pad on the paint.

This is what comes to mind now. I've got to get going on another job but will post if I think of something else.

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

I do clean off my yellow pad before switching to something else. Can a person use too much polish when doong that. My garage is currently at 45 degrees which might have something to do with it but i havent had problems with anything else. I will try will the first two steps you suggested and see how that turns out

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential



ok so here is the hazing i was able to get a pic of. now i did a few things i went faster strokes with light pressure with the yellow pad, didnt work, so i did the same with the black pad, didnt work, then i went to do both by hand and still no luck. could a person start over and go back to U.C. and then try again or what else could i do . i cant notice until the lights on it and im sure when its in the sun its going to look hideous.

[The Guz]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

I do clean off my yellow pad before switching to something else. Can a person use too much polish when doong that. My garage is currently at 45 degrees which might have something to do with it but i havent had problems with anything else. I will try will the first two steps you suggested and see how that turns out

You definitely want to switch pads when using a new product. Pads get saturated with paint residue and spent product.

ok so here is the hazing i was able to get a pic of. now i did a few things i went faster strokes with light pressure with the yellow pad, didnt work, so i did the same with the black pad, didnt work, then i went to do both by hand and still no luck. could a person start over and go back to U.C. and then try again or what else could i do . i cant notice until the lights on it and im sure when its in the sun its going to look hideous.

You could either be dealing with soft paint or the possibility of the pad just being overloaded with residue.

This is what I would do. With a brand new pad do a test spot with UP on the yellow polishing pad. I know you are using the DAPS so your area should not be that large that you are working.

If the marring is still there, then I would say go with UC on the maroon cutting pad. If this works and finishes out with no hazing, you can finish it off with UP on the black pad or yellow pad.

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

I should ask is running those pads under hot water to clean them not good enough?

[The Guz]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

Are you using anything else to clean them out with or just water? Are the pads still damp when using them?

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

I just rinse them with water until it's clear water being squeezed out. There's minimal dampness if any

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

So attempting more things to fix the problem im not getting any results one thing ive noticed when wipe the area off it alnost looks as if my micro fiber shine towel is creating streaks to. And these towels have been through tge wash

[Lydia]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

I apologize for not responding sooner! I've had this in the back of my mind but had other things occupying the front of it and the rest of me. Does that mean I'm of two minds? I hope not.

Looking at your picture it does appear that the marring is in straight lines. If that is the case, it sounds like you nailed it. Whether or not the M205 is fully removing the hazing, we don't know. But it does appear that you may be re-instilling marring when wiping off. What kind of microfibers do you have? Particularly with soft paint (which you appear to have) it's very important to have quality microfibers. You also want to make sure there aren't particles or debris stuck in the microfibers. Pro tip: detailing and woodworking are not complimentary hobbies, at least in the same garage without a good cleanup in between. I learned this the hard way. Sawdust does not come out of microfibers, at least not easily at all. My point is, you want to make sure your microfibers are very clean. Even being clean, if they are low quality microfibers you're more likely to risk instilling marring. I would highly recommend inspecting your microfiber towels closely to make sure there isn't anything embedded in them. What brand of microfibers are you using?

I'm not sure if you already know this, but on a side note: when you wash your microfibers, be sure to dry them on medium or low heat, and do not use any dryer sheets. Dryer sheets leave a residue on the microfibers. Also, it's not a bad idea to run an extra rinse cycle, especially if you are using a powder detergent. When I wash my microfibers and buffing pads, I add some degreaser (usually Simple Green because it's cheap and relatively non-toxic) and some white vinegar in addition to liquid detergent, then soak them for a while. Then I finish the wash cycle, then do a second rinse, before putting them in the dryer. If you have a washing machine that gives you an option where it can add something during the rinse it's a good idea to put the vinegar into there. My washer isn't that fancy (it might be as old as me. No really, it might be. But it still works well).

Besides microfibers, let's double-check a few things technique-wise. I apologize in advance if you already know all these things, I just want to make sure you're all set with technique.

Are you working in a small section, say 16" x 16"? Once you work that one section, you want to remove the remaining product from that one section immediately, before moving on to the next section. Do not allow UP to dry.

How long are you working each section? While I don't have a specific time 100%, I would expect it to take 1-2 minutes per section. Put it this way: it takes me an average of 3 hours to apply a cleaner wax to a standard size car, when I'm making good use of the polishing ability of the cleaner wax. I would expect I'm using the cleaner wax about like you need to use the UP in this case. This is using a DA with a 5" pad, so it would take longer with the smaller pads in the DAPS system. Once I looked again at the pictures of the oxidation on the top of the vehicle it made me wonder whether perhaps you would be benefited by a longer buffing cycle. In the case of the oxidation, while it sounds like the #7 helped it, to some extent it just replenished the oils in the paint. The oxidation is probably to some extent present still and may show up down the line. It's up to you whether or not to compound it more. If you're happy with it, that's great.

When you are using the UP by hand be sure to apply even pressure to the back of the foam applicator. You don't want to bear down with your fingertips. Try to apply firm, even pressure. Keep in mind what you're doing is removing a very very small amount of the clear coat to get the hazing out, so it will take some effort. Again, you need to work it in a small area (more like 12" by 12" when working by hand), apply some pressure, and take a little bit of time with it. When you're getting toward the end of your hand-buffing lighten up the pressure for the last few passes.

Here are a few threads that may be helpful if you haven't already seen them: http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...u4Jt8KJkQBZ.97

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?43209-Meguiar-s-Quik-Tips-Video-Series-Removing-Swirls#S9H0HipiOva7toPK.97

The one thing that I notice in both of these is that they do not appear to show the full time that the product is being buffed (maybe for time's sake?). I also tend to move more slowly over the paint than Mike Pennington does. But the arm speed is dependent on the amount of defects that need to be removed. And Mike Pennington has been working for Meguiar's longer than I've been alive. Just kidding about that part. But he's been there for a long time. Just telling you what my method is though.

Another thread, this one about product removal: http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...DzhCwok5yoQ.97

Was your hood repainted recently?

[Lydia]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

This video is a tad long but it shows closer to the work time that I would use with UC. I wouldn't work UP quite as long but it might give a better idea of what I'm talking about in terms of how long to work a product: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ozwtlrrj2E . I kind of like the fact he doesn't say anything as the results speak for themselves.

He did at some point spray something on the compound. It looks like the UC was beginning to dry slightly so he sprayed something to allow him to buff a little longer. This tends to happen when it's hot outside so I don't think that's a factor for you. But you do want to make sure you're not dry buffing. This would be less of a concern with the UP as the additional polishing oils allow it to be worked longer.

[M.N.mach1]

Re: Restoring a Mach 1 to its full potential

I have those meguiars ultra shine microfiber towels about 6 of them. I try my hardest so they dont touch much. Now pretty much what i got a corded drill that runs 1500 rpms. And what i did today was use quik detailor to make sure the spot is clean. Then did like you said small spot. I would go left to right with 50% overlapping and i would do abput 4 to 5 complete passes on the spot. Then immediately wipe. I even tried with the black pad. And still have no results i would say that it takes me just a couple seconds for each row im doing before i change direction with not much pressure . now its about 40 degrees in my garage whether or not this affects it idk. I have even gone back to the UC and noticed it seemed a bit worse ao i stopped. Ivr even tried side to side then go up and down. Kind of a bummer to see 80% of the car look so dang good then get to the end and something come up. I dont do much by hand unless its the #7. I have tho also tried the UP by hand and still see no results. Can you apply to much UP on the pad? Even though it all get wiped off. Could it be possible i need to work the spot longer?