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I've mentioned this 4-Step idea in several other threads, but I just did a re-correction after going some 6 months with nothing but UWWA/GCQW maintenance, so thought I'd put it to the test again. Sorry, I don't have new pictures because they look the same as previous shots (see my gallery linked in my sig for more).
First, due to a recent road trip, I'd washed the car via pressure washers a couple of times in a week, and felt like I could get away without bucket washing. I'd cleaned up the paint with UWWA, then prior to doing the correction, just wiped down with some watered down QD to dust each section as I went.
Also, I've given up on claying the whole car - not because it doesn't work, but because it is SO much work
I followed the steps below for regular sections and for larger groups, such as the hood, fenders, roof, doors, etc. The settings below refer to a Porter Cable machine.
Step 1: Mirror Glaze M101, DAMF Xtra-Cut Disc, Speed 5 and 6 (Full Cutting & Powered Claying)
Sound aggressive?? Not really, not on diamond-hard paint that won't respond. This combo quickly scours and cleans, and of course, cuts very nicely. M101 is the most aggressive product Meguiar's makes by far, and on an Xtra-Cut MF pad, you might be scared to even turn the machine on, but I've learned to trust it, because amazing things happen. I use a cheap MF "rag" to remove, repeat, etc, as needed, mainly because the surface can still be grimy and I don't want to stain my SS towels. This doubles as "powered claying" for those of us who don't have as much time (or anti-inflammatories) as we'd like to devote to endless hours of claying.
Step 2: Detailer D300, DAMF Cutting Disc, Speed 5 (Pre-Polish & Blue Re-Tone)
Isn't this a second compound?? Yes, it is, and quite a good one. It's not aggressive enough for my paint, but boy, does it finish beautifully, very much a polish in its own right (it was designed to be a compound-polish). I make sure to switch to an SS towel to remove, and the polishing oils in D300 are already a huge payoff. Because I'm going for the DAMF "Blue" look, I also need to use D300 to tone down the silver/white finish of M101 in Step 1. If you can't see the difference in full sun, don't worry. On dark paints in lower lights, it's stunning how good DAMF can look, and for my money, I'd never get there with Ultimate/Mirror Glaze, Gold Class, NXT, Deep Crystal, etc. Anyway, by now the finish looks corrected and polished.
Step 3: Detailer D302, DAMF Finishing Disc, Speed 4 (Jewel Polish)
Why also use a polish?? Because D302 is a fantastic, creamy, luxurious step that your paint (and eyes) will love. Yes, DAMF is based on a 2-Step process (D300-D301), but Meguiar's added this polish for a reason. I take it easy on this step and try to "jewel" the finish, perhaps repeating for some areas. You're done trying to cut or correct, so this is adding that extra umph and X-factor, soaking those oils deep into the finish. The effect is jaw-dropping in terms of image clarity, deep protection, and the finish. Indeed, it is this polished finish that your waxing and spray waxing is meant to protect over time. Don't skip the true polish step for a full correction. I might even use the same SS towel as in Step 1, using towel management.
Step 4: Detailer D301, DAMF Finishing Disc, Speed 4 (Wax & Wipe)
Isn't this a cleaner-wax?? Yes, and one of the very best waxes around of any kind, IMO. D301 is a super-forgiving carnauba-enriched wax, and with the purple color/scent and final "DAMF Blue" cast, puts the perfect cap on this 4-Step process of making a crazy-nice finish on dark paint. One of the best features of D301 is that it does not need to dry or cure at all, and should be wiped off immediately. I still use the same SS towel as in Steps 1 and 2 with towel management to make the point - the residue of DAMF products should be minimal and very easy to remove. You really can do a whole correction with one towel.
The finished result, as you might see in some of my photos (see my gallery), is really best appreciated in person. Photos can't really capture the effect, particularly in low-light, "gas station" light, and so forth. Those of you with dark paint who use DAMF know what I'm talking about
Maintenance and Washing
For me, regular Ultimate Wash & Wax Anywhere/D115 and Gold Class Quik Wax, along with occasional bucket washing with a mix of Ultimate Wash & Wax and Gold Class Shampoo, are the best and easiest ways to maintain this finish. There is no Meguiar's quik wax or waterless spray that perfectly matches the "DAMF Blue" look I've talked about, since Detailer D156 Synthetic X-press is essentially UQW, just more of that "Ultimate White/Silver" look. Gold Class Quik Wax is yellowish, of course, but at least is loaded with carnauba, and that is the more important factor in maintaining the carnauba finish of D301. Ideally, I'd repeat Step 4 monthly or so, but life can get in the way, and I'll go many months sometimes, by then needing the full 4 Steps again, because the polish starts to wear away, even with very regular use of GCQW.
Lastly, keep in mind, the DAMF Blue look is very subtle compared to Ultimate, Gold Class/M26, etc, and on some paints, might be imperceptible.
I hope these tips helps someone out there
First, due to a recent road trip, I'd washed the car via pressure washers a couple of times in a week, and felt like I could get away without bucket washing. I'd cleaned up the paint with UWWA, then prior to doing the correction, just wiped down with some watered down QD to dust each section as I went.
Also, I've given up on claying the whole car - not because it doesn't work, but because it is SO much work
I followed the steps below for regular sections and for larger groups, such as the hood, fenders, roof, doors, etc. The settings below refer to a Porter Cable machine.Step 1: Mirror Glaze M101, DAMF Xtra-Cut Disc, Speed 5 and 6 (Full Cutting & Powered Claying)
Sound aggressive?? Not really, not on diamond-hard paint that won't respond. This combo quickly scours and cleans, and of course, cuts very nicely. M101 is the most aggressive product Meguiar's makes by far, and on an Xtra-Cut MF pad, you might be scared to even turn the machine on, but I've learned to trust it, because amazing things happen. I use a cheap MF "rag" to remove, repeat, etc, as needed, mainly because the surface can still be grimy and I don't want to stain my SS towels. This doubles as "powered claying" for those of us who don't have as much time (or anti-inflammatories) as we'd like to devote to endless hours of claying.
Step 2: Detailer D300, DAMF Cutting Disc, Speed 5 (Pre-Polish & Blue Re-Tone)
Isn't this a second compound?? Yes, it is, and quite a good one. It's not aggressive enough for my paint, but boy, does it finish beautifully, very much a polish in its own right (it was designed to be a compound-polish). I make sure to switch to an SS towel to remove, and the polishing oils in D300 are already a huge payoff. Because I'm going for the DAMF "Blue" look, I also need to use D300 to tone down the silver/white finish of M101 in Step 1. If you can't see the difference in full sun, don't worry. On dark paints in lower lights, it's stunning how good DAMF can look, and for my money, I'd never get there with Ultimate/Mirror Glaze, Gold Class, NXT, Deep Crystal, etc. Anyway, by now the finish looks corrected and polished.
Step 3: Detailer D302, DAMF Finishing Disc, Speed 4 (Jewel Polish)
Why also use a polish?? Because D302 is a fantastic, creamy, luxurious step that your paint (and eyes) will love. Yes, DAMF is based on a 2-Step process (D300-D301), but Meguiar's added this polish for a reason. I take it easy on this step and try to "jewel" the finish, perhaps repeating for some areas. You're done trying to cut or correct, so this is adding that extra umph and X-factor, soaking those oils deep into the finish. The effect is jaw-dropping in terms of image clarity, deep protection, and the finish. Indeed, it is this polished finish that your waxing and spray waxing is meant to protect over time. Don't skip the true polish step for a full correction. I might even use the same SS towel as in Step 1, using towel management.
Step 4: Detailer D301, DAMF Finishing Disc, Speed 4 (Wax & Wipe)
Isn't this a cleaner-wax?? Yes, and one of the very best waxes around of any kind, IMO. D301 is a super-forgiving carnauba-enriched wax, and with the purple color/scent and final "DAMF Blue" cast, puts the perfect cap on this 4-Step process of making a crazy-nice finish on dark paint. One of the best features of D301 is that it does not need to dry or cure at all, and should be wiped off immediately. I still use the same SS towel as in Steps 1 and 2 with towel management to make the point - the residue of DAMF products should be minimal and very easy to remove. You really can do a whole correction with one towel.
The finished result, as you might see in some of my photos (see my gallery), is really best appreciated in person. Photos can't really capture the effect, particularly in low-light, "gas station" light, and so forth. Those of you with dark paint who use DAMF know what I'm talking about
Maintenance and Washing
For me, regular Ultimate Wash & Wax Anywhere/D115 and Gold Class Quik Wax, along with occasional bucket washing with a mix of Ultimate Wash & Wax and Gold Class Shampoo, are the best and easiest ways to maintain this finish. There is no Meguiar's quik wax or waterless spray that perfectly matches the "DAMF Blue" look I've talked about, since Detailer D156 Synthetic X-press is essentially UQW, just more of that "Ultimate White/Silver" look. Gold Class Quik Wax is yellowish, of course, but at least is loaded with carnauba, and that is the more important factor in maintaining the carnauba finish of D301. Ideally, I'd repeat Step 4 monthly or so, but life can get in the way, and I'll go many months sometimes, by then needing the full 4 Steps again, because the polish starts to wear away, even with very regular use of GCQW.
Lastly, keep in mind, the DAMF Blue look is very subtle compared to Ultimate, Gold Class/M26, etc, and on some paints, might be imperceptible.
I hope these tips helps someone out there
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