D300 on Yellow Foam PadI

[KidDetailer]

I try to find this topic on here, but unable to find anything except on other car detailing forums. I read others using D300 on Foam pads rather than the designed microfiber pads. It was said that the D300 aggressiveness sits between M105 and Ultimate Compound. Does that mean I can use D300 on Yellow pad...and it should be more aggressive than Ultimate Compound on the Yellow pad?

I only read that users didn't like D300 on the Wool Pad.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: D300 on Yellow Foam PadI

While you can, in theory, use almost liquid on almost any pad, there are some other things to consider here. While D300 is indeed more aggressive than Ultimate Compound and less than M105, it was specifically engineered to be used with our microfiber discs. It's always best to learn a system approach before you start mixing and matching things that weren't really designed to go together. For example, the users you mention who don't like D300 on a wool pad - wool pad generally means rotary application and that's just something D300 wasn't really designed for.

Further, don't focus too much on finding a specific niche of aggressiveness with a given product because how you use that product - pad, tool, tool speed, multiple variations in technique, etc - will have a large impact on how aggressive the overall process is. As an example: M205 Ultra Finishing Polish was designed to be just that, a finishing polish. Meaning it was designed to be a follow up liquid to a compounding step that may have induced some micromarring, rotary swirl, etc. Generally speaking it will be used with a polishing or finishing pad at lower speeds to refine the surface. And yet...... when you run M205 on a microfiber disc with a high torque DA tool (MT300) at speeds more normally associated with compounding, we've actually seen guys remove sanding marks with it!! Have a look at this article for more info on the variables impacting total cut. From that you should be able to tell that, depending on usage and technique, there most likely is an overlap in the total cut of M105 and Ultimate Compound.

Now, having said all that, what is it you're trying to accomplish that has you looking for an alternative between M105 and UC?

[KidDetailer]

Re: D300 on Yellow Foam PadI

No, I think you answered my question.

I have a 4 inch Burgandy pad for the DA G110v2. Which is a step in aggressiveness I have yet to try, because I read about the marring. But can this marring be removed with Ultimate Polish?

[Michael Stoops]

Re: D300 on Yellow Foam PadI

Yes, the micro marring that is possible with that pad should be easy to clear up with Ultimate Polish or M205 on a yellow foam pad.

[KidDetailer]

Re: D300 on Yellow Foam PadI

So this is a car I'm working on, and I am using 4 inch Yellow pad with the G110v2 with Ultimate Compound (5speed) and Ultimate Polish (3speed). I did vary the speed while on Ultimate Compound at speed 4 first, but realized it didn't do anything...and even at 5 it didn't take out all the defects.

This is the part above the door, there are these "spots" on it with weird cracks on the paint. This entire side of the car....was involved in an accident years ago, and was repainted. The REST of the car is 95%...only the Driver side is suffering from these strange defects which I can never restore.






This is with Ultimate Compound on Yellow 4 inch pad at speed 4 ...and then 5. Followed with Ultimate Polish on Yellow pad at speed 3. I did try Ultimate Polish first at speed 4 and 5, but didn't do much.




Unfortunately, it can't get this out in that same area.



This one is towards the rear of the car...and it has these weird blotches of micro scratches, which looks hazy.





After the same 4 inch Yellow with Ultimate Compound (speed 5) and 4 inch Yellow with Ultimate Polish (speed 3). These defects don't seem do go anywhere. I pretty much blame the poor quality paint job that body shop did many years ago...cause I had another door redone on that same side by another body shop, and it doesn't defect up like this.

[The Guz]

Re: D300 on Yellow Foam PadI

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but that looks like clear coat failure. I have the same thing on certain areas of my car that were repainted many years ago. The only fix is a repaint.

[KidDetailer]

Re: D300 on Yellow Foam PadI

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but that looks like clear coat failure. I have the same thing on certain areas of my car that were repainted many years ago. The only fix is a repaint.

No..that is Good news. Cause that confirms what I've thought all along and not my crappy detailing job.

I'll leave it as is....I sealed it up with Collinite 845.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: D300 on Yellow Foam PadI

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but that looks like clear coat failure. I have the same thing on certain areas of my car that were repainted many years ago. The only fix is a repaint.

Unfortunately, we have to agree with this rather unfortunate conclusion.

No..that is Good news. Cause that confirms what I've thought all along and not my crappy detailing job.

I'll leave it as is....I sealed it up with Collinite 845.

This likely makes you the first person in the history of detailing to look upon this as good news!!! But your reason for that positive outlook on a negative situation is a good one - the affirmation that you're actually good at this paint correction thing!!

[Top Gear]

Re: D300 on Yellow Foam PadI

Picking up on this thread as well as the Aggressiveness of SMAT thread (and just to add to the variables Mike Stoops mentioned), I've actually found UC to be slightly more aggressive than D300 on MF, but then at other times, I honestly couldn't tell the difference in cutting power side-by-side. D300 finishes better than the "white" compounds, though, and the whole DAMF kit makes black paint just sing, with dark blueish reflections you cannot get from the "Ultimate" products. I upgraded to M101 instead of UC/M105 for any harder compounding than I'd do with D300. M101 is a dream, cutting very, very nicely for me on MF with out all the hours of work needed to do the same thing using D300, or UC/M105, etc. I then use D300 after M101 for a quick pass to "reset" the finish back to the darker Detailer hues, or as a step between aggressive compounding and gentler polishing.

Anyway, CC failure is heartbreaking. I've had it on more than one vehicle, and there's just nothing you can do to stop it in the long run. You can make it harder to notice, for a time, with lots and lots of polishing oils, even baby oil or other products, but the only hope is to repaint, or get another car If you want to prolong the decision, remember that these failures tend to be cracks, or also undermined areas underneath or deeper than the surface, so filling those areas with oily products like UP/M205 or D302 can darken them and keep the areas blended with the other fine areas. Compounding only accelerates the degradation, so focus on polish and wax without too much action in those areas. Again, this is only a temporary trick, though, because sooner or later, the clear will be gone and the paint underneath will bleach out from the Sun. Unfortunately, it often encourages us to care less about the car overall, and thus the whole thing deteriorates faster. Oh well.

Didn't mean for that to sound sad. At least you can learn various techniques on this particular paint and not worry too much over ruining it.