Single Stage Paint and Dried Out Interior?

[Baaky]

I am going to do a classic car fairly soon, but since I have never worked on single stage paint, I'm a little unsure of how to proceed. Can I just quick detail, clay, apply Meguiars #07 and let sit, polish, and seal? In this (http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html) article, Mike Phillips uses M80 on a rotory, Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, and XMT 360. Do I need to use these products, or can I use any polish? Also, are there any recommended products for a dried out interior?

[Priyaka]

Re: Single Stage Paint and Dried Out Interior?

What car is it? How old?

[Baaky]

Re: Single Stage Paint and Dried Out Interior?

This is my 62 Chevy Corvair, and if this goes well, I will be doing my dad's 68 Ford Torino.

[BillyJack]

Re: Single Stage Paint and Dried Out Interior?

Mike has documented some other restorations where he's done the same rub/soak with M07, but used other compounds and polishes:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-mike-phillips-your-detailing-questions/63665-wayne-carini-1954-hudson-hornet-original-paint-restored-mike-phillips.html

I've done a few myself and the common thread on all was the M07 soak. Personally, I lean toward the old-school products on older paint, so in addition to M80 as the next step, I've used M03, M02 and M09. There's no reason why you can't use a newer tech product, such as D151, M205, UP or UC, as I've done it successfully. The overnight soak with M07 "moisturizes" the paint, helping any subsequent product work better. Without pre-treatment with M07, Older single-stage paints tend to absorb the liquid carrier of the polish or compound, leaving you with a bunch of dry, caked-up abrasives on your pad (ask me how I know). Also, to avoid rub-through on old, thin, fragile paint, I've mostly used a D/A polisher, saving the rotary only for heavy cutting where necessary.
Also, GM vehicles from that era used lacquer paint, more temperamental and fragile than the enamels used by Chrysler and Ford.
If you do the Corvair first, the Ford will probably be easy.
Bill

[Coursey]

Re: Single Stage Paint and Dried Out Interior?

Great read.

I am getting ready to do my 1978 c10 with original paint. It is Cordova brown (metallic) and buckskin.

I believe my process will me

1. Clay bar
2. soak overnight with M7
3. M105 with hexlogic orange pad and torq 10fx polisher
4. M205 with hexlogic white pad
5. M7
6. wax

Does this sound appropriate?

[Coursey]

Re: Single Stage Paint and Dried Out Interior?

[BillyJack]

Re: Single Stage Paint and Dried Out Interior?

Old single-stage paints are generally easier to correct than modern BC/CC finishes. Before you have at it with the 105, try a test spot with the 205 and both pads, orange and white.
As posted above, I've done a few GM's from the 70's and 80's. Rarely have I had to reach for something as aggressive as M105. The last thing you want to do on a truck as nice as yours is to remove more paint than necessary, so go with the least aggressive compound that gets the desired results, possibly including Ultimate Compound as a test step before the 105. Be sure to post some pics with your progress. Both those colors are non-metallics, so they're likely immune to the de-lamination issue that affected the blue and silver tones in that era of GM trucks.

Bill

[Coursey]

Re: Single Stage Paint and Dried Out Interior?

Old single-stage paints are generally easier to correct than modern BC/CC finishes. Before you have at it with the 105, try a test spot with the 205 and both pads, orange and white.
As posted above, I've done a few GM's from the 70's and 80's. Rarely have I had to reach for something as aggressive as M105. The last thing you want to do on a truck as nice as yours is to remove more paint than necessary, so go with the least aggressive compound that gets the desired results, possibly including Ultimate Compound as a test step before the 105. Be sure to post some pics with your progress. Both those colors are non-metallics, so they're likely immune to the de-lamination issue that affected the blue and silver tones in that era of GM trucks.

Bill

The Chemical Guys v32-38 came with my polisher. Do you know how the CG products compare to the Meguairs? Does M105=v32?

[BillyJack]

Re: Single Stage Paint and Dried Out Interior?

Sorry, can't be of much help, since I don't use CG stuff. According to the chart on Autopia, V32 is listed as a "3", slightly milder than M205, a "4". CG V34 is showing as a "9", vs. M105 as a "10", so you might be right equating V32 to M105.
Hopefully someone with more CG experience may chime in.

Bill