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Going To Tiown On A 2013 WRX (A Little Advice Please!)

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  • #1

    Going To Tiown On A 2013 WRX (A Little Advice Please!)

    First post here. Hi everyone! So over this winter I've been stocking up and getting ready to go all out and make this World Rally Blue paint shine when the weather clears up. The car has some nice swirls from the previous owner and I'm sick of looking at them. They are VERY visible at night under street lights, but can also be seen with the right lighting during the day. I am very passionate about this car and taking care of it is very important to me.

    Here is what I've bought so far. If anyone sees anything I'm missing or need please let me know!

    HARDWARE
    • Harbor Freight 6" Dual Action Polisher (this has over 100 good reviews so I picked it up since the price was right after a coupon)
    • Lake Country 5" Backing Plate
    • Lake Country 5.5" Pads (Two Orange, Two Pink, One Grey, One Red)
    • Lake Country Replacement Compression Washers
    • Meguiars Soft Buff 3" Backing Plate
    • Lake Country 3" Pads (Two Orange, Two Pink, One Grey, One Red)
    • A bunch of Super Plush Microfiber Towels
    • Synthetic Sheepskin Wash Pad

    PRODUCT
    • Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay Bar Combo (Clay Bar, Lubricant, and Microfiber Cloths)
    • Meguiars M105
    • Meguiars M205
    • Meguiars #21 Sealant


    So my plan is to do a test spot with the M205 and a pink pad. If that isn't working well I plan on stepping up the orange pad. If that isn't working out I'm going to move to the M105. Is this a good idea? I bought the M105 as a backup plan. I have some people suggesting to start with the M105 since the M105/M205 combo, but I'm not sure that's really necessary. I know that the M105 has a very short work time and is much more abrasive than the M205. I believe the goal here is to use the least amount of abrasion to get the job done.

    I have been watching a lot of videos getting ready, but I would gladly take any advice or recommendations. Here is the plan. Wash and dry, clay bar, do a test spot with the M205 and pink pad, if it works out do the rest of the car the same way working in small 2'x2' sections making sure to prime the pad and have it on the surface of the car before turning it on (and keeping it on the car as it's turned off). For the M205 I would use a higher speed such as 4-5 (5-6 if I use the M105) and applying a constant pressure to where the foam is pushed down a little bit. Also making sure to wipe off the excess compound when the section is finished. Perhaps wash and wring a pad after each section, constantly alternating pads through the entire job? For the tighter spots I would use the 3" backing plate and pads. After the compound I would move on to the #21 sealant with the black or red pad at a speed of 3-4 and go over the car with light pressure. Then I would wait about a half hour and wipe it off with a microfiber towels.

    Does this all sound good? Anything I should know/buy?

    Thanks for your time!
    2013 Subaru WRX Premium - Tomei Equal Length Headers - Invidia Catless Downpipe - Invidia Q300 - Cobb EBCS - Group N Motor Mounts - Perrin Transmission Mount - Perrin Pitch Stop Mount - Kartboy Short Shifter - Kartboy Front and Rear Shifter Bushings
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  • #2
    Re: Going To Tiown On A 2013 WRX (A Little Advice Please!)

    BTW excuse the typo in the title!
    2013 Subaru WRX Premium - Tomei Equal Length Headers - Invidia Catless Downpipe - Invidia Q300 - Cobb EBCS - Group N Motor Mounts - Perrin Transmission Mount - Perrin Pitch Stop Mount - Kartboy Short Shifter - Kartboy Front and Rear Shifter Bushings

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    • #3
      Re: Going To Tiown On A 2013 WRX (A Little Advice Please!)

      Your plan sounds good to me. Do a test spot with the M205 first and see if that achieves the results you are seeking. You could always try the M205 with the orange pad also before moving to the M105. M105 will correct about any defects that can be corrected but isn't necessary on every job, every panel. I like to use Ultimate Compound on a test spot first, rather than going right to M105, as it does a good job on many paints and finishes near LSP-ready, reducing your time spent on the next polishing step.
      Let the rotation of the pad/backing plate determine your maximum pressure. Using a Sharpie or marker, draw a line from the edge toward the center and watch it as you apply additional pressure. If the pad stops rotating, you're either using too much pressure or the pad's not flat on the surface. You don't need to wash the pad after each section, though it does no harm. Simply use a terry towel or pad brush with the polisher running. It is good to switch off pads every panel or two to avoid overheating, which will ruin a pad.

      Bill

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      • #4
        Re: Going To Tiown On A 2013 WRX (A Little Advice Please!)

        to MOL!

        Sounds like you've done your research, as your plan is excellent.

        The only thing would be (as Billy said) you don't need to wash the pad after every section. Just clean the pad after every section and then wash it at the end of the job.

        Good luck and let us know how you go
        Originally posted by Blueline
        I own a silver vehicle and a black vehicle owns me. The black one demands attention, washing, detailing, waxing and an occasional dinner out at a nice restaurant. The silver one demands nothing and it looks just fine. I think the black vehicle is taking advantage of me, and the silver car is more my style. We can go out for a drive without her makeup and she looks fine. If I want to take the black one out, it is three or four hours in the "bathroom" to get ready.

        Comment

        • #5
          Re: Going To Tiown On A 2013 WRX (A Little Advice Please!)

          Welcome to MOL!

          I have a feeling the M205 may work out okay for you. Subaru paint is quite soft generally, and it certainly was on mine.

          Start with a 12"x12" test spot and see how it works out!

          Post some pics when you can. Always good to see a nice Rex!

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