Wet sanding and polishing single stage paint job.

[Serf27]

Hey everyone. Just introduced myself and have a few questions that I'm hoping could be answered.

First off. I am did a single stage paint job using rustoleum gloss white. I mixed some gloss in the final coats for added clear.
My final finish came out dull in some areas and shiny in others. I was told the dull with sand off and be polished right out. I am hoping.
I am using meguiars ultimate compound and ultimate polish with a foam pad and a wool pad on the buffer.
I sanded some of the yesterday with 2k grit. I hit it with the polisher and it looked the same. (This was a quick test so that's probably why it looks the same)

My question.
With only using the compound and polish and the buffer.

Should I sand the car with 1200 grit and use the foam pad with the compound and then hit it with the polish with the wool pad?
I am going to polish the car today as I need to finish it today.
And for runs and imperfections, what is the safest grit to use? 600?

I know there's a million threads on this and have seen some that will help. But I have not seen any threads on just using the ultimate compound and polish.
Thank you in advance.

[BillyJack]

Re: Wet sanding and polishing single stage paint job.

UC is not as aggressive as compounds such as M100 or M105, so the finest grit you can color sand will give you the best results. I'd go at least to 2000 grit paper if not finer, such as 2500 or 3000. Wool pads on a rotary polisher cut the fastest, but can be tricky to use if you're not familiar with the process, especially on ridges, creases and panel edges, where it will be easy to remove too much material and buff through your finish. Foam pads come in a myriad of aggressiveness levels. What brand and color are you using?

Bill

[Serf27]

Re: Wet sanding and polishing single stage paint job.

Okay so I shouldn't use the UC? I do not want to go through bottles of that stuff and spend hours trying to polish it with it. Should I get the m105 and polish it with that?
And is that all the polish I need just the 105?
And I will stick to the 2k grit then and sand it all with that and polish it.
The blue foam pad has no name on it. It is just blue with a thin cushion on the inside. I'm using a rotary buffer and a wool pad from harbor frieght.

[BillyJack]

Re: Wet sanding and polishing single stage paint job.

If you're using Harbor Freight pads, their orange pad is much more aggressive than the blue pads, as it is with many other pad mfr's. Most have a yellow and orange as their compounding pads, or in the case of Meguiars pads, burgundy is the color of their compounding pad. M105 is an excellent compound, but has a bit of a learning curve, so some web research should be a priority for you.

Bill

[Serf27]

Re: Wet sanding and polishing single stage paint job.

Thank you for the reply Bill. I am about to wet sand the car with 2k grit till it is all smooth and one shade of flat color.
I will take back the UC and UP and grab the m105. The wool pad from HF is a yellowish color. Should I use the yellow wool pad, then the softer blue foam pad?

Okay I'll look up on how to use and apply the m105 before I buff it. I've never buffed before. I was always satisfied with the shine from this paint but now I am trying to get some mirror reflection.

Do you have any tips you can add to my search about using it?

Also just to confirm, using the m105 compound and wool pad and foam pad will bring a shine to the 2k grit sanded surface? Or do I need something else?
Thanks in advance.

-Serafin.

[BillyJack]

Re: Wet sanding and polishing single stage paint job.

First of all, I've done a lot of buffing over the years with rotary polishers and wool pads. I actually have an HF rotary that I pull off the shelf sporadically just because it's so much lighter than my older metal case rotary. I'm not familiar with HF pads, since I use mostly Meg's, Buff n' Shine and Lake Country, but I'm told HF's are marginal in quality. They do list an Orange compounding pad in both 6 inch (my preference) and 8" diameters. The HF Blue pad is more for use with UP or M205. I will tell you that I've been able to finish out 2000 grit scratches with UC and LC Orange or Meg's Burgundy pad with a rotary on harder GM Clear. I can also buff thru the clear with the same combination!
Whatever pads you use, clean with a stiff brush (foam) or a spur (wool) after every section pass, since an over-accumulation of paint and used compound on your pad will just slow your progress. Also, watch your polisher speed. 1000-1200 rpm is all you need. As I said, I only use mine very sporadically, but IIRC speeds II and III are what I normally use. Do some searching, as I believe somewhere in this forum is a post with the speeds of the HF rotary.

Bill

[Serf27]

Re: Wet sanding and polishing single stage paint job.

Okay thanks for you help. I will look up the speed of the buffer and go from there as to how I should buff it.

I do not want to cut through the paint as you said you have. I will probably test it out on the trunk in an area a spoiler will cover.
I'm using 10" pads do to the buffer wheel size.



Since I will be using the wool pad for the most.
M105 is the best compound to use to bring out a shine to the car correct?
Will I have to use any other compound besides the m105 after?

[The Guz]

Re: Wet sanding and polishing single stage paint job.

If you want to make life easier on yourself you can finish out with 3000. M105 will cut through those sanding marks easier. I believe it's been posted that M100 with microfiber cutting pads on a dual action polisher can remove 3000 marks. You will have to search to be sure.

You should get some M205 to refine the finish after M105. Good luck.

[Serf27]

Re: Wet sanding and polishing single stage paint job.

Thanks for the reply! And thank you for the good luck. I will definitely need it.
Okay so go up to 3k and use micro fiber pads if I use m100.

If I use m105. I can use wool pads and if scratches are still visible I can use m205 to refine the scratches with a wool of right?

So many options I don't know what to do. But I will try using the 105 with wool pad after 3k to see if I get a good shine.(since I have the wool pads already)

I will experiment with the blue foam pad after the wool pad if the desired look isn't obtained.

I am gonna drop to 1200 and move my way up to 3k. Even at 2k I am making slow progress.

The steps I will take. If there is a flaw please correct me

Wet sand 1200
Wet sand 2k
Wet sand 3k
Use m105 on wool pad
Use 205 on wool pad if m105 does not make it shine enough.

[wheckathorn]

Re: Wet sanding and polishing single stage paint job.

M205 is considered a polish, so most polish with foam or microfiber. This finishes down very nice and removes the haze left from the M105 compound.

[Serf27]

Re: Wet sanding and polishing single stage paint job.

I still haven't bought the m105/205 and prob wont do so for a few weeks as its $60 for both.
I am just going to tough it out with the UC and UP. The orange peel varies in the car from heavy to light. This is a different car with 2 stage paint job. Currently working on the rear as the orange peel is the worst!
i am sanding with only 2k grit paper.
i have read using a MF pad or TC pad(terry cloth) will cut faster and better than a wool pad.
is this true? And if so, which one is best for using the UC on RO buffer?
Will using any of those pads remove very little peel?
i sanded an area completely flat and hit it with the compound and it was glossy and clear! but just wondering(because of the time) if i don't need to sand it completely flat and get a good finish with a MF/TC pad and the UC?
should I use the wool pad with the UP or foam pad? After i remove the 2k grit haze.
thanks in advance.