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Need Help on an original finish 1976 Plymouth Duster

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  • #1

    Need Help on an original finish 1976 Plymouth Duster

    I just picked up a Happy Gilmore Look A Like Plymouth Duster . This thing is a Time capsule with 90% original paint as Chrysler applied it in 1976.

    It has a few very thin spots where it looks like it was polished through to the primer. The rest looks pretty good and was shiny from 3 feet.

    My typical process is I start with Clay Bar then ultimate compound with a portercable da, then to 205, then 9 or 7 depending on color. Finishing up with 26 or Black Wax depending on color.

    I have had very good results. I recently did an original finish 72 corvette that was oxidized and no one could believe the results so I was eager to try this out on my latest subject.

    With the thin paint in mind I started gingerly with 205 after I clayed. The finish turned to chalk. I wet it with ultimate detailer and tried another section with the same result. Panicked I tried some Ultimate by hand, then some medium cut cleaner, and still pale.

    As a last resort I tried some # 7 show car glaze. It drank it up like mothers milk. I barely had any on my wipe cloth. The trunk drank up almost 1/2 a bottle and the chalky look disappeared. I clayed the hood which removed the shine, but didnt make it chalky. I used the #7 again, this time it drank it in but after 2 applications its was done. looks good, but there are still imperfections that I would like to try to take out.

    Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. here is a flicker album of day one before I messed with it. I did no harm .......Yet

    1976 Plymouth Duster Survivor
    https://flic.kr/s/aHsk6cJAFj
    Original paint survivor
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Al bundy drove a duster too lol!!

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    • #3
      Re: Need Help on an original finish 1976 Plymouth Duster

      You may already have done some research, since you had chosen wisely to use M07, but I'll pass along what I've learned both from research and doing a bunch of SS restorations, FWIW.
      When you apply M07, rub it in with some effort, then let it sit and soak in at least overnight. Depending on the dryness of the paint, you may care to do more than one overnight app. I've done as many as four apps, working until the paint seemed saturated with the M07 oils and subsequent apps would just lay on top of the finish and not soak in. Use either a soft piece of terrycloth about 12 to 16 inches square, or an mf towel. The nap of the material, together with some aggressive rubbing, will accomplish a fair amount of polishing on its own, with terry being the most aggressive.
      Once you have most of the M07 wiped off, inspect carefully, looking for thin areas, especially thin edges that you may want to tape off. As for polishing, I prefer M80, another oil-rich product, but M205 isn't a bad choice either. Use your pad choice to vary the cut, I've used anything from wool on a rotary thru a few foam grades on a D/A, depending on the needs of a particular area, usually finishing with a Meguiar's yellow pad. I'm a big fan of UC, but it's a rare occasion when I need to go that aggressive and usually only on a small area that looks particularly bad. You'll find that machine polishing is so much easier and more effective once the paint is adequately moisturized with M07.
      Again, I hope I'm not spending a lot of time telling you what you already know, but I've done enough that I'm starting to get the hang of it....at least until the next one comes along!

      Bill

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      • #4
        Re: Need Help on an original finish 1976 Plymouth Duster

        ^^ advice from Bill is definitely worth listening to, especially on single stage paint.

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        • #5
          Re: Need Help on an original finish 1976 Plymouth Duster

          Al Bundy I forgot! I loved that show especially the Nudie Bar episodes, "Where the music stinks & so do the drinks"

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          • #6
            Re: Need Help on an original finish 1976 Plymouth Duster

            Thanks Bill, I need all the help I can get. I have been an enthusiast detailer in the past. I sold my business last year & tried to retire. I decided to open up a small specialty Car dealership , but like anything I do , its become full time and doing well.
            As I am now doing this stuff for profit as well as a labor of love, I appreciate any and all advice.

            My advice to anyone who listens, don't retire.

            Nice El Camino BTW , I had an 80 SS that I towed my race car with for years, the guy i sold it to in 97 still tows a vintage 911 with it.

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            • #7
              Re: Need Help on an original finish 1976 Plymouth Duster

              Very nice cars Pete! Love the Grand National! and the 70 LS1 powered Monte!!

              Are them your clients cars or yours that you have fixed up over the years.

              Also what machines do you have for your polishing work besides the DeWalt Rotary, and you don't use that Rotary on the old SS paint do you?
              ''USE THE LEAST AGGRESSIVE PRODUCT TO GET THE JOB DONE RIGHT''
              You Don't Know What You Can Do Until You Try '' TECHNIQUE IS EVERYTHING''
              Test Hoods Are Cheap And Most Of The Time Free

              Comment

              • #8
                Re: Need Help on an original finish 1976 Plymouth Duster

                Originally posted by Daniel Kinder View Post
                Very nice cars Pete! Love the Grand National! and the 70 LS1 powered Monte!!

                Are them your clients cars or yours that you have fixed up over the years.

                Also what machines do you have for your polishing work besides the DeWalt Rotary, and you don't use that Rotary on the old SS paint do you?

                Thanks ,most of the builds on musclecarjr.com are mine at one time or another except the 70 & 87 Montes. I did extensive work on the Gbody but that was originally an ex Sherman Carter car that was butchered along the way. The 70 was an incredible build that was a consignment that went to the west coast and I spoted it at mecum recently. A very un appreciated ride but very well done. The 240Z was another consignment & is now in England & hope to see it at Goodwood soon.

                Most of the stuff I do is complete other peoples projects or problems. I am very particular on the safety and driveability of what I sell. With Atlanta traffic like LA, you have to have a cool running ride.

                I use the Port A Cable DA for most of my detailing work. Im just afraid of burning through the paint on some of these old rides.

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                • #9
                  Re: Need Help on an original finish 1976 Plymouth Duster

                  The pics I checked out only had 7 or so vehicles that's why I ask if they were yours. Seen alot of the cars you had for sale or had sold on you site. That 70 Monte I like Had a lot of mods done and was a fantastic restored piece!!!! Did you get close to the asking price?

                  And the Black Grand National beside the blue viper, Love the vipers but for my own use and I drove my cars, I would took the GN over the viper any day. But then again I'm a 80's guy!

                  Yeah I come through there several years ago pulling my 4X4 ranger my uncle needed for awile( And then blowed it up>it helps when you replace the oil filter on when changing oil) but was going on 26+ hours of no sleep at that time, and it was CRAZY TRAFFIC!!! I was a nervous wreck!!LOL

                  You have a great shop, Very clean! In my opinion you just can't beat the good ol' 7424XP, Have a Rotary & 3401 Flex and only use my Flex for severe or dead line details, now with the New Meguiars 5.5 foam disk they just up'ed the aggressiveness of our little beloved 7424 Porter Cable! Plus the MT300 DA That Meguiars is coming out with Polishing Paint is going to be quicker and better finishes with just 1 product!

                  I see M205 or Ultimate Compound with the new foam cutting disk and then stepping down to the polishing disk or even finishing disk or all 3 for an unreal show car shine from one product the norm. I know I can't wait for the disk!!

                  The Black FoxBody in my avatar was all original paint except hood, front bumper and left rear quarter panel, and all I ever used on them were 6''&10 orbital's with foam bonnet's for the cleaning steps and SratchX/Body Scrub and M80! On the original paint on front left fender I even with their the O.E SS paint on a high point body line. (I was so sick!!)

                  Original Old SS paint is like a time bomb, you never know exactly how thin it is or how many people has used a Rotary on it and in my case my cheap $26.00 orbital with through with M80 and a foam bonnet! OUCH!!! But it was my fault, I didn't know about using thin 1/8 or 1/4 inch tape to cover high points or edges at the time. You live and I learned quick. LOL

                  You do nice work and looking forward to you posting it up!
                  ''USE THE LEAST AGGRESSIVE PRODUCT TO GET THE JOB DONE RIGHT''
                  You Don't Know What You Can Do Until You Try '' TECHNIQUE IS EVERYTHING''
                  Test Hoods Are Cheap And Most Of The Time Free

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                  • #10
                    The nudie bar where the beer gives u gas and the bundy s kick a**

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