Another one from Southern CA

[86MonteSS]

Greetings from southern CA.

I'm a fairly new owner to a 1986 Monte Carlo SS. 3rd owner, and probably the nicest stock paint I've seen on a used car. I believe the paint is original, I can't find ANY evidence it was repainted, and the paint and body are in excellent condition. Even when dusty I still get compliments that it has the "wet" look. However, looking at the car closely, there are plenty of swirl marks and visible contaminants on the surface.

I was told OEM paint for this model was a single stage lacquer. So before I start claying or throwing chemicals like polish on it that were designed for more modern clear coat paints, I decided to do my research first, which brings me here.

Advice I've received so far: Wash, clay bar, wash, polish/glaze, wax

I've got plenty of questions, and I'm planning on creating a thread with some photos of my car for more details and input. So if it's ok to ask on this forum, I've got one main one: What's the difference between a polish and a glaze, and which, if any, should I be using on a single stage lacquer paint?

My goal: I've seen some black paints that look like they are liquid, and I'm hoping to get this car as close as that as possible. Looking forward to learning and contributing on this web site as well.

[Selectchoice]

Re: Another one from Southern CA

Welcome to MOL!

(FYI, you may find you get more/better answers to your questions if you post them separately to your intro post.)

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: Another one from Southern CA

to MOL Monte

Love those cars!

Yes we would love to see your SS!

As for my recommendation, myself I love and always keep both #5 New Car Glaze (for it's ability to be use in humid conditions/and always had with me when I mobiled) & #7 Show Car Glaze. 2 of the best Pure polishes out there in my opinion and can be picked up at most autoparts stores.

And Yes to your last question, Absolutely! You need to apply the resins/oils back into the paint to fill the pores so no unwanted substances from entering, such as acid rain/high alkaline detergent soap/harsh chemicals or any other nasty unknown chemicals floating around that will find it's way to your open pores like a Vacancy motel!

Also my recommendation would be the 2 bucket wash with gritguards/ PH balanced soap/ thorough claying of the paint (I prefer the meguiars mild Clay C2000> also I was never a fan have rewashing after claying the paint, wast of time and water in my opinion/ just spray a good amount on for lubricity and remove the above surface bonded contaminates from a section and then use soft micro fiber towel to wipe excess off!) Next would be the cleaning step, since you say your paint is in very good "looking to your eye" condition. I need and would like to know what method of application you will be using? Hand/ Orbital/ DA? & the pads you have? But I'm big on M205 (Ultimate Finishing Polish) or SwirlX which has about the same or just a little more SMAT (Super Micro Abrasive Technology> meaning as long as their's product on surface it's still doing it's job and cutting to some degree) and you can pick it up locally.

Also use your different function of pads, to have more or less aggressiveness of ability/ machine speed >if your working with a DA/ arm speed/ and working section> no more then an 18'X18'/ And one more factory I like to throw in is the type of paint! Since you are working on Single Stage Black Original Paint? You need to be VERY CAREFULL!!!!! Use 1/4'' painters tape vinyl detailers tape is the best and less troubling, and tape all edges, and high point body lines were your paint is the thinest to begin with.

Next Is my favorite LSP (Last Step Product/ meaning wax or sealant) especially on Single Stage paint. M26 Liquid or paste(I'm a paste wax junkie) Hi-tech yellow wax! When you have a almost perfect finish that is the smoothest possible>Do the baggie test(gives you gloss) and cleanest (removed as much below surface defects as can be safely, gives clarity,depth&richness) then add the protection to lock in and save all the hard/FUN work to last with M26 (which as a special ability to not only add shine from the carnauba but formulated to bend light back into itself instead of bouncing it back into your eyes erecting glare/haze. And this is what we want to help produces the Deep Dark Reflection!

Hope I've helped and give you some ideal's but read the below article Mike wrote for a better answer to your 1st question,which is there both the same but different companies/brands list it different from a marketing point of view.hope to see that SS soon.




Got this info from Mike Phillip's in the book he wrote. "The Complete Guide To A Show Car Shine"

Non-Abrasive Glaze or Pure Polish
Historically, the term glaze is used to describe a bodyshop safe, hand-applied liquid used to fill-in and mask fine swirls while creating a deep, wet shine on fresh paint. It's a category of products used on fresh paint in body shop environments, which will not seal the paint surface by depositing a long lasting sacrificial barrier coating using some type of protection ingredients.

A bodyshop safe glaze is used in place of a wax, sealant or coating because it won't interfere with the normal out-gassing process of fresh paint for the first 30 days of curing. The function of a bodyshop glaze is to hide rotary buffer swirls while giving the paint a uniform, just waxed appearance to ensure customer satisfaction. After 30 days cure time its normal to the seal the paint using a wax, paint sealant or coating.

Hiding Swirls
There's a number of reasons why historically body shops use a glaze on fresh paint to hide swirls. Most body shops are production oriented and perform a limited number of machine buffing steps due to time restrictions and profitability. This would include machine compounding with a wool pad and machine polishing with either a wool finishing pad or a foam polishing or finishing pad, both steps using rotary buffers.

The end results are normally excellent shine but with rotary buffer swirls in the paint, (also called holograms and/or rotary buffer trails), that can be seen in bright light. The glaze is normally hand-applied to fill-in and hide the swirls as hand application is fast and relatively effective as long as the swirls are shallow. This glazing procedure produces a finish that customers will accept at the time of vehicle pick-up. The results are somewhat misleading however because bodyshop glazes are water soluble and as such will wash off after a few car washes or repeated exposure to rainy weather and then the swirls will become visible. This is the standard and accepted practice in the body shop industry.


Note: Because there are no rules or regulations governing the definition or the use of the word glaze, manufactures and sellers of paint care products use the word glaze as a name for all types of products that are not true glazes in the historical sense of the word. Most common is the use of the word glaze in the name of a car wax or paint sealant.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Another one from Southern CA

Welcome to MOL!

[86MonteSS]

Re: Another one from Southern CA

Thanks everyone.

Daniel, that was an extensive amount of information and very helpful, I really appreciate it. I'll be posting in Detailing 101 fairly soon with all my questions, but I think I got a much better handle on the terminology used here after that post. Plus I spent some time poking around the auto parts store detailing section, where I finally found the more specialized products you mentioned.

I have done nothing extensive beyond the usual regular wash. My washing technique is not so hot, so I ended up going to the local gas station Blue Coral station, which actually did a pretty decent job, got good beading and it would dry consistently (my weak point). Anyways yesterday I decided to use my Meguiars Cleaner Wax all in one by hand (cotton applicator, followed by terry cloth, then "polishing" cloth). I think it came out good, I had a chance to really inspect each body panel and find my major flaws. After reading some of the FAQ's, I probably could have gone with a thinner layer of product, but I will remember that for next time. From my camera phone, not very clear (I'll have a better one in my Detailing 101 post) but this is my car:

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: Another one from Southern CA

That is one nice looking SS!! lOVE IT!!!

Oh man, don't take that to a gas station detail! or detail shop! for any detail work! They will instill more swirls into your paint (more Damage) and the wax they use will have fillers in them (most all do) meaning that it will look good for a couple days and/or after a good rain or couple washes all the fillers will be washed away and you going to be looking at more swirls each time you take it there.

And don't use nothing but a soft micro fiber towel on your paint and folded in forths for even pressure applied by your hand over the folded towel instead of a single flat towel were only some of the palm and finger tips will be rubbing surface and missing half of product removal and that causing more micro fine swirls the more you have to rub over it.

Also I along with many use an electric leaf blower to dry the car off after washing. Remember less you have to touch your car the better, plus you get all the water out of the cracks, crevise's and seams. (I think I only gave $50.00 something for my craftsman) Also under the vent were it ***** in air I got a thin cheap foam filter and placed there so as not to get any dust sucked up through there acting as a sand blaster to your paint.

After you rinse all the soap off take your sprayer (fireman nozzle is my favorite) off and let a slow flow over water run from the top down over entire surfaces of your car so to help in remover alot of the water that takes longer to remove. This way the water will sheet off and be quicker to dry, also I even will spray/mist D155 last touch over surface while still wet to again help in the aid in drying.

We all here will help you and give you a couple tips and tricks at times to help you keep that fine looking SS in top shape! Here's a couple how to video's that will show you the proper way of washing using the 2 bucket system, and claying your paint the correct and safest way!
But to add, I will have the grit guard inserts at the bottom of the buckets, to keep the dirt, sand and who knows what else that's on the surface of your car at the bottom of your bucket. When you do this and pour your rinse water out you will see why this is important!

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?41790-Meguiar-s-Quik-Tips-Video-Series-Washing

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfEfLGL59GI

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?44773-The-Baggie-Test-How-to-inspect-for-above-surface-bonded-contaminants&highlight=

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?46847-The-Beach-Towel-Tip&highlight=

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?33761-How-to-do-a-Test-Spot&highlight=

Hope this will help get you up to speed and start giving you an understanding of how Important doing the correct way is. And since you have Original Single Stage Black Paint, Your going to have to be VERY careful!! I went through a high spot edge once on a old black paint just using a 10'' orbital, foam pad and M80 Speed Glaze. The reason using narrow painters tape is very important! Vinyl tape is great for your bonnet or foam pad to glide easily over, Always tape area's you don't won't your buffer to get on. No matter how careful you are, it will happen!