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Re: Correcting Audi paint
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Re: Correcting Audi paint
It looks as if the tool you are using is a typical DA. In that case you should follow the write up of using speed 4 with the MF cutting disks. Your arm movement needs to be a little slower with MF. If you want to finish with foam try a polishing pad with M205 on speed 5. Forget all of this jeweling. M205 will give you enough gloss. Then seal with your favorite wax. You should also shrink your area to something around 16x16 or 12x12. Clean the pad often. Working clean is the only way to get some correction.
On top of that, silver won't give you that wow factor like black,dark colors in general or bright colors like red. You can only do so much with silver or even white.Comment
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Re: Correcting Audi paint
This is a continuation of my post which kept falling off' last night.Last edited by TheMac; Oct 24, 2014, 01:26 AM. Reason: thread wil lnot accept second part of my reply 4 times!Comment
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I realised my messages kept being cut because of unusual character (a with 2 dots in Werkstat). Check if that's your issue as well.Comment
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Re: Correcting Audi paint
Lets forget it. Thanks anyway.Comment
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Re: Correcting Audi paint
How are you trying to post? Phone or PC?Comment
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Re: Correcting Audi paint
PcComment
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Re: Correcting Audi paint
I have moved this post to 101.Comment
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...I looked for the continuation of this post in 101 but all I found was something about a Black Audi...
Ok so the more I read about your description of the scratches and your inability to budge them... The more it reminded me of the paint on my trunklid. The light metalic green paint on my trunk is the only panel on my car that's without a doubt the original paint my car came with.. And that paint, while it's by far the best looking paint on the car, has proven to be hard as a diamond.
The 1st time I used my DA I spent almost 2 hrs. just on the trunk and for some reason couldn't get complete results on it and decided to stop before I removed too much the clearcoat. I had done at least 4-5 applications with Ultimate Compound on an Orange pad.
I later convinced myself that I must've just made a rookie mistake and failed to hold the machine properly and therefore bad technique could be the cause of me wasting so much time and not yielding results.. But after trying again a couple of weeks ago, this time with microfiber/D300 I found myself still unable to even budge those very distinct/straight scratches on the paint.
Now either that paint is harder than I ever imagined hard paint would be, or those scratches are somehow beneath the clearcoat. That's probably not even possible but I have no better way to describe the scratches as they appear too deep to remove, yet are smooth in the paint and can't be felt with a fingernail.
I'll try to get a picture of it today once the sun's out. Hopefully my phone can pickup the rare scratches.Comment
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Re: Correcting Audi paint
Thanks for the post. That sounds exactly the same as my Audi. I am going to try Megs 101 and then spray the paintwork with Gtechniq panel wipe to get rid of the all the fillers and oils. I would just like someone to tell me what colour of foam finishing pad to use to 'step this down' to get rid of any marring or hazing caused by the M101. Surely someone on this forum must have the technical expertise to advise on this and whether 101 contains fillers and polishing oils. My Audi is just 4 years old and the great majority of the paintwork is original. Apologies I am starting to get cranky!Originally posted by Eldorado2k View PostComment
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Re: Correcting Audi paint
I have posted under 101 'Help required on nature of pads'.Comment
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Re: Correcting Audi paint
TheMac, I am unfamiliar both with your buffer and the products you are using. I did visit the Xpert web page and the photos and videos show them using a wool pad on a rotary buffer. I'm wondering out loud, if perhaps those products may not respond properly to a dual action running at the speeds you mention and the pads you're using?
As Davey mentioned, generally Audi paint is hard. My experience with the one Audi I've done this summer, the black car's finish responded well to a regular microfiber cutting pad and microfiber DA Correction Compound on a Flex 3401 DA. Again, Davey and I are speaking of generalities, your experience may be different.
The one thing I don't believe you have mentioned, is the past history of the car. Has it routinely, regularly or even occasionally been run through a brush or foam pad touching car wash? A few passes through a brush car wash will leave tons of parallel scratches or marks that may take a dedicated effort to remove them.
"fishing for swirls in a sea of black"
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DavidComment
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I'll go out on a limb and say M101 has no fillers. I know something like Ultimate Polish has some fillers, but Foam Cut Compound? And if the haze/marring looks a bit much start off with a yellow polishing pad. If M101 finishes almost lsp ready maybe a finishing pad will do fine.. No need to overthink it as both pads can finish.
I was a bit busy today and just now got a chance to do a waterless wash on my trunk but there's not enough sun to get a direct hit on the paint.. I took a few pix while using an led light on the fine marks but they don't appear on the photos:/
I will say that they have gotten to the point where they've gradually minimized a bit due to the recent compound I did, along with the polish + wax, not to mention D156 is said to faintly minimize fine scratches...Comment
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Re: Correcting Audi paint
M101 is a compound. Compounds have no fillers or oils. Polishes contain either of them.
What products do you actually have?Comment
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