Correcting Audi paint

[TheMac]

I have an Audi A5 and to date have not been able to achieve much, if any, correction on the paint even with Meguiars MF cutting pads. On a similar car I am now intending to use Megs 101 and follow it up with 205 and then Menzerna super or final finish to sharpen up the paint finish. Also if the 101 does not work initially I am tempted to try the Megs extra cut MF pads and should be interested in anyones experience that has used them to date.
Additionally can anyone say whether 101 contains fillers or polishing oils?

[The Guz]

Re: Correcting Audi paint

Need a little more info. Speed of the DA? How's you technique? Are you using the MF system correctly?

A couple reference threads

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?47855-Using-Meguiar-s-D-A-Microfiber-Correction-System

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...tch-this-video!

[TheMac]

Re: Correcting Audi paint

[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the second video is sticking at present on both firefox and google so its probably a temporary glitch in your web site. I had already watched both videos before and found them informative.
I have a DAS 6 pro 850 watt orbital polisher and have detailed two cars to date initially using foam pads and on the second using Meguiars MF cutting pads followed by foam pads for the finishing, jewelling and sealing stages. Total time spent on the two, an 8 year old Mazda MX5 and 4 year old Audi A5 was approximately 45 to 50 hours. Speed used was 2 minutes per 2 foot square panel at speed 5 followed by 1 minute at speed 4,3,2 and a further 2 minutes at speed 1.
It has been suggested by a couple of people that my expectations are unrealistic in that I am looking for a finish of a brand new car not just one with very good paint work which looks like it has been purified and buffed. Nevertheless, my thinking is that to achieve that really fresh paint look that the very top layer of paint needs to be removed at stage one. My knowledge is limited so perhaps you could confirm.
I have attached a couple of pictures of my last attempt. The car looks O.K. and the paint is very clear but within 3 -6 inches and under florescent lights at the right angle I can see lots of very light straight score lines. This seems to suggest that my previous product used with the MF pads was not correcting properly.
I have read on this web site that the MF system is for the volume market and not necessarily high end finished product. As I am doing this as a interest I am seeking the best result possible.
Many thanks in anticipation

[TheMac]

Re: Correcting Audi paint

Any chance of a reply?

[wifpd4]

Re: Correcting Audi paint

Explain, just a little bit, what techniques and products you are using for this car. You mention, "Speed used was 2 minutes per 2 foot square panel at speed 5 followed by 1 minute at speed 4,3,2 and a further 2 minutes at speed 1."

Consider in your explanation, when using a specific buffer speed what are you doing for downward pressure and arm speed. I'm not familiar with your buffer. When you set it at speed 3 and you apply heavy downward pressure, does the buffer stop rotating or keep rotating?

Remember too, work on your techniques and products on a "test spot" before proceeding to the entire car. Find a successful technique on that test spot and then move on to another area.

Another thing to consider, are you leaving marks or marring due to your techniques. Would the paint be considered delicate and sensitive to excessive pressure or too aggressive products?

Thanks for the additional information.

(oops, I just noticed this thread was started in the Introduction Section, you might get more answers in the Detailing 101 section)

[davey g-force]

Re: Correcting Audi paint

Audi paint is generally hard, but you should definitely be able to get correction with MF pads and a compound.

As stated, a bit more info is required. What compound did you use with the MF pads? What was your arm speed (inches per second)? And how much down pressure did you use?

If you worked on a 2 foot square area at once, that's probably a bit too big. Did you clean the pads after every section pass?

[Eldorado2k]

Your paint looks fine from that angle.. Can you take a pic with the sun directly in the center of your shot so we can have a look at the scratches you're describing?

A pic like this.



Also keep in mind there will sometimes be a few rare scratches left behind that run so deep they're not worth picking a fight with.. I finally got around to correcting my trunklid a couple of weeks ago with the DAMF/D300 and while it looks better than ever, there are a few random fine scratches if you look hard enough.. I hit them twice but they're beast and refuse to budge..

Some things in life can't be perfect, but it's ok with me because 95% looks alot better than before

[TheMac]

Re: Correcting Audi paint

Thanks for the replies. I used the water based Xpert range of products 1000, 1500, Jewelling polish and titanium sealant.
Each section was cross hatched at the various speeds and times were as mentioned above.
Any excessive pressure on the polishing machine stops the rotation. The Audi clear coat is hard and there are no marks or marring left by the machine. Thanks for the tip re the 101 section.
The Xpert 1000 can be used as a one step process but does state 'Removes properly sanded color sanding scratches quickly and easily from high solid paint systems. Xpert's own unique abrasive cuts faster and creates a better finish than any other polishing compound.' I am assuming that in the normal course of events, i.e. if the Audi clear coat was not as hard that any light scratches in the clear coat should have been removed by using this product. The machine was used at a rate of approx. 1 inch per second and with medium pressure not so much as to start to stop rotation and not light i.e. the weight of the machine and some more - I think you probably get a feel for it - I spent 40+ hours using it.
Getting a photograph is a problem at present. I had borrowed a camera from a friend the last time and will try to again. What I can say is that the paint does not contain any obvious swirls or hazing as in your post and the fine scratches, perhaps due to the light colour of paint, can not be seen easily, if at all, in direct sunlight.
My concern is that if a significant number of fine straight line scratches can be identified even under florescent light then the paintwork is not perfect and as such is possibly diffusing the light and not providing as high a gloss shine as it could otherwise.
Having watched Gary Dean's video I suspect that the scratches on your trunk lid may be easier lifted by using Megs 101 rather than the D300.

[TheMac]

Re: Correcting Audi paint

Apologies for not paying attention. I see that one of the photos was duplicated. I meant to post this.
[IMG][IMG][/IMG][/IMG]

[szladob]

It couldn't be that you are reintroducing those fine linear marks at the time of wiping off the compound/polish/wax? I presume you use high quality microfiber towels?

Otherwise I'm keen to hear others' responses as well, as I have done 3 different cars now (one being a silver Audi) on a hobbyist level, all three being light metallic colors, and found that even removing 90-98% of the swirls (best results were with the MF +D300 system on the Audi) didn't really create much more noticeable shine/reflection than the proper cleaning (decontamination of iron and tar + clay) itself. All three cars looked nice, but not really a wow factor on a MOL level . In fact, taking 50-50 pictures you can't tell which half of the roof e.g is done...
I haven't done much of the jewelling that some people mention, as UP didn't seem to make visibly noticeable difference when I used it. I even tried the Werkst

[szladob]

It couldn't be that you are reintroducing those fine linear marks at the time of wiping off the compound/polish/wax? I presume you use high quality microfiber towels?

Otherwise I'm keen to hear others' responses as well, as I have done 3 different cars now (one being a silver Audi) on a hobbyist level, all three being light metallic colors, and found that even removing 90-98% of the swirls (best results were with the MF +D300 system on the Audi) didn't really create much more noticeable shine/reflection than the proper cleaning (decontamination of iron and tar + clay) itself. All three cars looked nice, but not really a wow factor on a MOL level . In fact, taking 50-50 pictures you can't tell which half of the roof e.g is done...
I haven't done much of the jewelling that some people mention, as UP didn't seem to make visibly noticeable difference when I used it. I even tried the Werkst

[szladob]

Re: Correcting Audi paint

Not sure why it keeps cutting out half my post, one more attempt....

It couldn't be that you are reintroducing those fine linear marks at the time of wiping off the compound/polish/wax? I presume you use high quality microfiber towels?

Otherwise I'm keen to hear others' responses as well, as I have done 3 different cars now (one being a silver Audi) on a hobbyist level, all three being light metallic colors, and found that even removing 90-98% of the swirls (best results were with the MF +D300 system on the Audi) didn't really create much more noticeable shine/reflection than the proper cleaning (decontamination of iron and tar + clay) itself. All three cars looked nice, but not really a wow factor on a MOL level . In fact, taking 50-50 pictures you can't tell which half of the roof e.g is done...
I haven't done much of the jewelling that some people mention, as UP didn't seem to make visibly noticeable difference when I used it. I even tried the Werkstat Acrylic system, as some people swear by it for light metallic paint, but doing the whole car with ULW, and one door with Werkstat, I couldn't tell the difference. I wonder if it is the light color that just doesn't lend itself for amazing results, or I need to improve technique/products..
Nonetheless, MF+ D300 worked really well on the Audi paint, with much less time you mention (2-3 passes with pressure, 2-3 without).

[TheMac]

Re: Correcting Audi paint

I would be doubtful if any type of microfiber towel could make much of an impression on the hard Audi clear coat if a polishing machine spinning at 5000 rpm with a 'polishing compound' did not appear to do so. Nevertheless, I am just about to attempt a detail of my future daughter in law's black Audi A5 and will definitely keep an eye on that. It may well turn out to be a very good point.
I appreciate your difficulty in making light coloured cars paint 'pop'. If you are interested in a high gloss shine just apply Glare pro polish the protection of which is advertised to last up to 5 years. Alternatively if you want a gloss second only to Glare but which needs topped up after each wash but can be applied in minutes try Meguiares Quick detailer which could last for most of the year for approx.

[TheMac]

Re: Correcting Audi paint

[TheMac]

Re: Correcting Audi paint