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  • Few questions

    I don't think my car was ever properly detailed before and it's a mess. I'm trying to do it on my own to save some money. Did a lot of research and still have a few questions. Hopefully someone can help

    Start off by saying its a black car and had a lot of imperfections and deep swirl marks. I did a little wet sanding with 3000 grit and 5000 grit and now I'm onto the cutting stage

    I have meguiars cutting pad and I'm using 105 ultra cut with a porter cable da.

    How many times do you usually cut one spot? From afar looks perfect but once you get closer you can still see some spots where I sanded or where there were deeper scratches. The scratches I'm talking about don't catch your finger nail so I'm not sure if I just keep going until they're gone or if my pad is clogged or if my technique is wrong?

    How do you buff under door handles? By hand or remove the handle?

    What about where the body meets up to a trim piece or spoiler. Can't seem to get close enough



    How do you know when your pad is clogged?


  • #2
    Here is a Golden Rule that Mike taught me... Never sand where you can't buff

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    • #3
      You should be cleaning your pad (on the fly) after every section pass.

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      • #4
        You may not be able to get close enough to the trim to remove those sanding marks using the foam pads.
        With the microfiber pads on your DA polisher you should be able to get close enough to the trim to remove those sanding marks.

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        • #5
          Re: Few questions

          Another thing Mike taught us is not to start your correction process with sanding. If your swirls and scratches don't catch you fingernail, they probably don't need to be sanded. Sand only as a last resort when all else fails. Another Golden Rule is to use the least aggressive product/method that will get the job done. This takes some experimentation on a couple of test areas to dial in what will work best. I agree with Tim that that he Meguiar's microfiber pads may work best in your case.

          I used the DMCKIT5, DA Microfiber Correction System ($62 at Amazon). I have a 7 year old black truck that has spent its entire life outside - never in a garage. I had lots of deep swirls and scratches that this kit removed without doing any sanding and the truck looks pretty great. But what works great on one vehicle may not work the same on a different one, as all cars react differently to the various products and technique, so experiment until you get the best result... just don't start with a 15 lb sledge hammer to pound a nail. Work on small sections at a time (2' x 2') and clean your pad after each section, as Tim said. Work with slow arm movements with moderate pressure with your
          PC DA in a side to side pattern, then with an up and down pattern - several passes with overlap.

          If you haven't already checked out the thread on using the DA Microfiber Correction System, I highly recommend you read Mike's instructions here:



          There is also another thread about what NOT to do with microfiber pads that is important to read:



          Hope this helps - Good luck with your process.

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          • #6
            Re: Few questions

            definitely a good rule. will remember that for next time.

            appreciate the info, i just placed an order for the MF kit. this is actually the first time im hearing about it and it seems like its better than the foam pads

            one last question

            with the MF kit, its just cutting then right to wax? no polish?

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            • #7
              Re: Few questions

              Originally posted by brettdotcom14 View Post
              with the MF kit, its just cutting then right to wax? no polish?
              That depends on how the paint responds. I've had D300+MF finish LSP ready. I have also experienced D300+MF hazing and I had to follow with M205 to resolve that.
              99 Grand Prix
              02 Camaro SS

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              • #8
                Re: Few questions

                in the tight areas where your polisher doesn't reach you can buff the sanding marks out by hand, including under the door handle.

                I've found that using a cutting pad like the burgundy one you have and folding it a bit and buffing by hand that way, works great instead of using a mf towel. For tight areas and to remove the sanding marks.

                I would still polish after sanding and buffing them out, but that's just me M205 or Ultimate polish should be a great choice.

                Looks like you went all out and went for a showroom finish

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                • #9
                  Re: Few questions

                  If you do have any hazing after the D300 with the MF pad, try a side by side comparison test area with the D301 Final Polish+MF from the kit on one side and M205 with a foam pad on the other side and evaluate the results. M205 is an outstanding product and really makes black (on most paint) pop. Once you determine which works best and you finish out the whole car, then give it a wax with something like Ultimate or NXT as your LSP. Ultimate is quite nice on black, according to many folks here. I used NXT and liked it a lot but I'm planning to try Ultimate the next time I wax.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Few questions

                    3000 and 5000 grit sanding marks should be relatively easy to remove, but the operative word here is "relatively". Using a Porter Cable with a foam pad is really pushing it, almost regardless the liquid used.

                    You've gotten some great advice from the guys already and we know you'll find the microfiber kit to be a huge help for you here. On a personal note, I must say it's quite rewarding to hear these guys quoting things from the classes they've taken here - I love it when people pay attention, learn something, and then can pass along that knowledge to others. Fantastic!!! Back to the microfiber kit though. Be sure to read through this post before using it as there are some adjustments to be made to your technique with this system. Although minor tweaks, they are critically important to achieving optimal results. The DAMF System will also make it easier for you to reach tighter areas that are a serious challenge for a foam pad, plus the additional cutting power should remove the last of your sanding marks. That you had the foresight to finish down to 5000 grit is a lifesaver for you here - too many have thought 1000 grit was pretty fine, only to end up struggling like mad to remove those marks. So good for you on that point!!
                    Michael Stoops
                    Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

                    Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

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