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Thread: Meguiars synthetic sealant vs meguiars ultimate liquid wax

          
  1. #21
    Registered Member Murr1525's Avatar
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    Re: Meguiars synthetic sealant vs meguiars ultimate liquid wax

    Pure synthetic....
    '08 Subaru Legacy 2.5i SE - Newport Blue Pearl

  2. #22
    Mr Sparkle davey g-force's Avatar
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    Re: Meguiars synthetic sealant vs meguiars ultimate liquid wax

    Quote Originally Posted by Murr1525 View Post
    M20 isn't synthetic....

    Quote Originally Posted by Murr1525 View Post
    Pure synthetic....

  3. #23
    Administrator Michael Stoops's Avatar
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    Re: Meguiars synthetic sealant vs meguiars ultimate liquid wax

    First, to the original question: M21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0 vs Ultimate Wax - Both are 100% synthetic polymer sealants and both contain hydrophobic polymers. But they don't contain the same polymers so they aren't the same product just in different bottles. Ultimate uses our "thin film" technology which becomes immediately understandable the first time you use it - it goes on super thin and in liquid form it won't stain plastic trim. Ultimate liquid is the only wax/sealant we make that can either be allowed to dry for a bit before removal or wiped off right away with no change in performance. In some cases it actually works better if it's applied to a panel at a time and then wiped off before proceeding to the next panel. This is true especially on darker colors where a slightly heavy application can lead to an uneven appearance. M21 should be applied to all painted surfaces of the vehicle and allowed to dry fully before wipe off. Back to the polymers contained in these two products - M21 is very similar to NXT Tech Wax 2.0 in so much as they both use the same hydrophobic polymers but M21 has been slightly tweaked to better handle rotary application.

    Second, to the discussion surrounding M20, cleaners, hybrids, etc. M20 Polymer Sealant would fall into that "hybrid" category where a blend of waxes and polymers is used but the emphasis is on the polymer side. This is as opposed to products that are generally considered to be "carnauba wax" like M26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax, Gold Class Carnauba Plus, etc. These place most of the emphasis on the carnauba aspect, but since carnauba on its own is about as hard as a rock it must be mixed with other ingredients (usually various silicones, other types of polymers, etc) to make it usable. So you could argue that virtually any "carnauba" wax on the market is a hybrid of some sort. There is no such thing as a "100% carnauba wax" product in the sense that the bottle contains nothing but carnauba. Again, the contents of such a bottle would be hard as a rock. When a bottle or can states "100% carnauba wax" what it really means is that 100% of the wax in that container is carnauba - there is no montan wax, bees wax, paraffin wax, etc. It doesn't necessarily tell you what percentage of the container is actually wax, just that 100% of that portion is carnauba. So, back to M20 and M26 specifically - you could say that M20 is primarily a polymer with a bit of wax in it, while M26 is primarily a carnauba wax with some polymers in it.

    Remember, too, that the word "polymer" is a very broad term. Wikipedia actually sums this up nicely with the following:

    A polymer is a large molecule composed of many repeated subunits, known as monomers. Because of their broad range of properties, both synthetic and natural polymers play an essential and ubiquitous role in everyday life. Polymers range from familiar synthetic plastics such as polystyrene (or styrofoam) to natural biopolymers such as DNA and proteins that are fundamental to biological structure and function. Polymers, both natural and synthetic, are created via polymerization of many monomers. Their consequently large molecular mass relative to small molecule compounds produces unique physical properties, including toughness, viscoelasticity, and a tendency to form glasses and semicrystalline structures rather than crystals.
    Finally, as to the cleaning ability of any of the above mentioned products, only M20 Polymer Sealant has any true cleaning ability here, none of the others mentioned in this discussion do. M21, NXT, Ultimate and Gold Class are all considered "polish waxes" since they all contain some level of polishing oils to help darken the paint and add additional gloss. M20 is considered a very mild cleaner wax, not even close to M06 Cleaner Wax, M66 Quick Detailer, D151 Paint Reconditioning Creme, ColorX or White Wax, but still a cleaner wax nonetheless. M26 and Deep Crystal Carnauba are considered "pure waxes" as they contain neither cleaners nor polish.
    Michael Stoops
    Internet Technical Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
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    Registered Member Detailing by M's Avatar
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    Re: Meguiars synthetic sealant vs meguiars ultimate liquid wax

    Thanks for the clarification Mike.
    I've been misinformed again. I'm going to have to stop listening to you know who.

  5. #25
    Mr Sparkle davey g-force's Avatar
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    Re: Meguiars synthetic sealant vs meguiars ultimate liquid wax

    Thanks for that Mike, I thought so.

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    Re: Meguiars synthetic sealant vs meguiars ultimate liquid wax

    Printed and saved!

    Thank you Mike.

    Bill

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    Michael The Guz's Avatar
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    Re: Meguiars synthetic sealant vs meguiars ultimate liquid wax

    I just ordered some M21 to try out on another family members car soon.
    99 Grand Prix
    02 Camaro SS

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    Registered Member ffboy's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Re: Meguiars synthetic sealant vs meguiars ultimate liquid wax

    Quote Originally Posted by The Guz View Post
    I just ordered some M21 to try out on another family members car soon.
    All paint prep done, expect great results with M21. Good luck, enjoy, you will enjoy it.

  9. #29
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    Fantastic Mr. Stoops. Thanks again for the wisdom.

  10. #30
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    Re: Meguiars synthetic sealant vs meguiars ultimate liquid wax

    Sorry to bring back an older thread but this surprised me a little.

    the ultimate liquid wax contains no actual wax, it's just a sealant? Does it have protective abilities?

    Would it then be wise to, for example, use the gold class liquid first as an actual wax, then seal it with the ULW?

    second question about the ULW that I'm not sure about now since I learned it has no wax in it.. I forgot my bottle in the garage all so winter, and I don't think it went below freezing because there are water pipes that were fine, but it was definitely right there at 32-33 at points. Using that wax this summer I've been frustrated with the sometimes blotchy appearance I keep getting, when it went on really nice last year. Could the cold still be an explanation for this even though there's no actual wax in it?

    i went over the car with ultimate detailer and it looked much better.

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