Gel Coat Oxidation

[SEAYUH2]

I have a 1999 Sea Ray that has light to medium oxidation returning over time. After using many products mostly 3M products and Meguiar's Flagship Premium Wax I still have oxidation returning.

I've consulted with a professional boat detailer who claims 3M are the only products he uses to remove oxidation, polish and then wax and swears by 3M. He gave me a wax to try (3M 06005 Premium Liquid Wax) and frankly wasn't impressed as compared to Meguair's Flagship. In doing some research I found Meguiar's has a couple of Marine Compounds, Polish and Wax. Then I saw some Ultimate Products that caught my eye. My question is related to the Ultimate Compound. Is this recommended on Gel Coat? Additionally, what is the difference between Pure Wax and Premium Marine Wax?

[Please Wash Me Detailing]

This is always a problem.
Gel coat is a "dry" product by nature and keeping it sealled up is a challange.
My suggestion is to keep up on waxing it. I mainly use 20 and recently started using Flagship. So far they're both good products and perform well.
I hope you find the secret...

[SEAYUH2]

This is always a problem.
Gel coat is a "dry" product by nature and keeping it sealled up is a challange.
My suggestion is to keep up on waxing it. I mainly use 20 and recently started using Flagship. So far they're both good products and perform well.
I hope you find the secret...

By way of "20", is that the Polymer Sealant?

Have you ever used Meguiar's Marine/RV Fiberglass Restoration System? What about the Ultimate Compound? Would that be a good idea to use on gel coat?

[Michael Stoops]

Gel coat is a whole different animal than automotive paint. If you've got gel coat dating back to '99 it's actually getting fairly old, and if it hasn't been taken care of very regularly you're going to be in a position of having to really stay on it now to keep it looking good. Gel coat is a lot thicker, a lot harder, and much more porous than automotive paint is. This means it usually requires a more aggressive compound/abrasive makeup than what you want on paint. Which is why 3M and Meguiar's both make gel coat specific products (and, no they are not the same products in different bottles!). While you can use automotive products like Ultimate Compound on oxidized gel coat, they usually aren't quite strong enough to really do the job.

If you really need to get through the oxidation we'd suggest using either our M44 Oxidation Remover or M67 One Step Compound. We're inclined to go with M67 given your description as it's a great all around compound/cleaner for gel coats that are showing some age. But even so, you're going to need to do some very regular waxing on this surface to keep it looking good over time. That means maybe even just going with M61 Flagship Premium Cleaner Wax once you've got the oxidation removed. Regular use of this wax will clean light, fresh oxidation that is going to develop over time (and it will come quicker now that the gel coat has aged this much) and help to keep the finish looking fresh. M61 is going to offer better protection than our M56 Pure Wax and it's going to give you that cleaning ability that M56 lacks. But it's important to use M61 Flagship Premium Cleaner Wax and not just the M63 Flagship Premium Marine Wax.

[SEAYUH2]

But it's important to use M61 Flagship Premium Cleaner Wax and not just the M63 Flagship Premium Marine Wax.

Everything I have used ie: 3m and Meg has not resulted in the deep shine I expected to see. I have worked diligently spending a lot of time carefully with much elbow-grease, compounding/waxing but just can't seem to get there. What I have below the rails is the deep shine and luster and hope to achieve the same results above the rail from what I have learned here.

So with that, just to recap my understanding. Start out with M67 Marine One-Step Compound followed by M61 Flagship Premium Cleaner/Wax and eliminate Premium Marine Wax?

[Jonesey]

I've just finished a 55' Bayliner, 2003, which has been sitting for three years with little care, and probably not waxed since it was new. I tried M67, but found that M91 worked better for me, the 61 seemed to dry out too quick. (although that may be because the bottle was a few years old compared to a new bottle of 91) Above the rubrail (which is always the worst because of greater exposure to sun) took two applications in some places. I was using a rotary with a wool pad, nothing less aggressive will work, you are just wasting time. After the compounding I used the M61 cleaner wax and the boat looks great.

As Michael stated, you can't use just a wax, and even a cleaner wax will have difficulties with old gelcoat. It's important to get the oxidation off before you try to wax.

Glenn

[97t-bird]

#85 diamond cut compound works wonders with a wool pad and rotary.....Follow with #205 or #3 machine glaze then #20......Works great on heavy to lightly oxidized boats

[SEAYUH2]

#85 diamond cut compound works wonders with a wool pad and rotary.....Follow with #205 or #3 machine glaze then #20......Works great on heavy to lightly oxidized boats

Based on what I read from Mike's post all of the products were intended for gel-coat and that the formulas are different from products you mentioned above.

Does the marine products last longer and intended for the hard surface of the gel-coat? Does it really matter?

[TOGWT]

Gel coat has a vastly different formulation than automotive paint; it’s very dense (harder) much thicker and more porous. This means it usually requires a more aggressive abrasive than that required for clear coat paint.

Gelcoat fibreglass (polyester resin) is an ultra violet (UV) sensitive plastic. Though manufacturers add UV stabilizers in the manufacturing process, these protective agents weaken over time and must be replenished if continuing UV protection is desired

Collinite Fiberglass Boat Cleaner -first step cleaner (prior to polishing) restores blemished fiberglass, restores neglected finishes affected by weathering

Shurhold Buff Magic - formulated with jeweller’s rouge to be a metal polish, as well as a buffing and polishing cream. This unique formula changes as you use it. With each pass of a buffer or hand polishing the proprietary abrasives in this compound break down smaller and smaller. This effectively creates a compound that can work your finish from very dull to ultra glossy with just one product. Additionally, since you do not have to switch products, this will save you time and money. Removes: oxidation, gel coat stains, surface rust, tarnish, Plexiglas scratches and 1000 > grit scratches (Rotary speed 1000 – 12000 RPM)

[97t-bird]

I have not had a finish that #85 wouldn't bring back, if #85 won't bring it back with a few passes on the rotary and wool you most likely will need wetsanding. If you go with the other compounds not from Meg's the really aggressive ones are like rocks in a bottle. They tend to leave nasty holograms and haze the finish.....If the boat is imron(painted) #105 and a wool pad makes very quick work of the neglected surface. After the first step #205 then Machine glaze#3 if you have the energy. I like to use #20 (polymer sealant) #21 works just as well with less cleaning ability. I find #20 alot easier to use in the sun and humid weather. #66 Quick detailer makes a great cleaner wax, that works very well on boats.

I have used collinite's products, the buff magic, and many other "marine" products. The ones I listed above have NEVER let me down. It is also best to work on boats with a rotary at least for the first step, and saves quite a bit of time.

I have also used optimums hyper compound and polish with excellent results on boats.....The compound is a little easier to deal with then #85 but does not cut as much.......Just my opinions.....I use to detail boats for my full time job and still do several on the side. I worked for myself not some high production company.....