What's my next step? MFDA Kit? Diffent pads?

[1994Gen1L]

I purchased a Meg's G110v2 DA when they were introduced a few years back. My wifes 2002 'Stang GT was the test bed for my DA, Scratch X, UC and NXT 2.0 Wax. I removed all the minor swirls but was unable to correct all the clear coat etch marks from the 7 years of harsh weather (pop up summer showers, Magnolia Pollen, Love bugs...), while living on the MS Gulf Coast.

I traded the 'Stang GT in Dec. 2010 and purchased a new Ford Fusion. Knowing how the Meg's DA, UC, Scratch X, Swirl X, Color X, NXT 2.0 and ULW work, I decided to tackle the paint on my 5 owner, Oxford White CC, 1994 F150 Lightning. When I purchased the Lightning in June 2009, I used two Meg's clay bars to remove the surface contaminents. It looked as if I dropped both clay bars in the dirt. They were both unusable. The paint shined really well but there were years of swirl marks, minor scratch marks, a few RIDS on the hood and a few body dings, on the non-OEM CC paint.

I drive the Lightning in fair weather and it remains covered/in the garage when not being driven. I perform a good exterior detail three times a year. Each time, I have used my Meg's DA. This past spring, I spent two weeks working the paint, in an attempt to remove the CC etch marks that remain. The swirls and scratches are history. Although, the RIDS on the hood and the CC etching still remains. It has a great, high gloss, 10' paint job.

What should my next step be? I found what appeared to be a thin spot in the paint, just behind the driver's side cab, on the bed rail, while using UC. It freaked me out. Since then, I have applied a thorough coat of UP with my yellow DA pad on speed 5. The UP did a really good job at cleaning and prepping the paint for the LSP.

Should I try an LC CCS DA orange pad? Should I step up to the MFDA system? If so, what are my chances of correcting the paint any further? I know that a burgundy pad isn't recommended for use with a DA.

What are my options?

James

[Michael Stoops]

So you've got a 5 owner, 18 year old vehicle with some deep RIDS and etch marks remaining, but you've also found thinning paint in at least one spot and you buff it 3x a year in the 3 years you've owned it. You need to ask yourself this question: how much more aggressive should I really get on this old paint that's been repeatedly buffed on already (and fairly aggressively at times)?

It's great that you've brought it back to the level you have, but not all paint defects can be repaired by buffing, nor should you necessarily even try to. If you've got paint thinning in one area that you know of, it could be very thin in others, too. Stepping up to the DAMF System means you'd be getting even more aggressive and the paint may not be able to take much more. By the way, for a fair weather vehicle that's otherwise garaged and covered, why do you need to give it a "good exterior detail" three times a year? Or doesn't that mean what we think it means?

Any chance you can get us a picture or two of these deeper marks you'd like to remove?

[1994Gen1L]

I have attempted paint correction with UC, Scratch X and Swirl X two times. The first attempt was in 2009 and the second was this past spring. Three times a year, I wash, clay if needed, apply UP or Swirl X and apply two thin coats of wax. I give the interior, wheels, tires and underhood a thorough cleaning at the same time. I only wash when needed and use QD in between washes. I live in central Arkansas where we have a lot of oak and pecan trees, as well as sap particles that travel across streets and parking lots. Any time I drive the truck, I get bombarded with sap droplets, dust, the occasional bird bomb and so on. We have three airports in the local area as well as crop dusters in nearby farmland.

I will attempt to take a few pic's of the RIDS. I have snapped digital pic's in the past, even under flourescent lights, but they never seem to turn out very well. The RIDS are most likely going to be there until it's time for a repaint. Not sure when that will be, it isn't a high priority at this time. I really would like to lesson the etch marks on the CC.

I have no plans of going back over the thin spot I found on the drivers side bed rail. I know there comes a time when a repaint is the only fix. If that time is now, I'll just live with it for the time being.

Applying a once a year coat of UP with my DA and a finishing pad shouldn't hurt the CC any further. I'll top it with two thin coats of NXT 2.0 or ULW.

[Selectchoice]

I found what appeared to be a thin spot in the paint, just behind the driver's side cab, on the bed rail, while using UC.

Not saying it is or isn't, but what makes you feel this spot is thin paint?

[1994Gen1L]

Have you ever applied primer to a ridged area, painted over the primer with a light colored paint and then notice uneven coverage? It looks like a very small affected area, maybe 1/8 - 1/4". Then, clearcoat was shot over the thin area.

I am the 5th owner and not sure how much clearcoat is left over the area in question. I tried a few pic's with my new Nikon Cool-Pix and using a hand held florescent light. I was unable to capture the RIDS with my camera.

[Michael Stoops]

OK, so you haven't really done any aggressive buffing on it yourself then. Good. But that thin paint spot worries us a bit...... odds are that's not the only spot that's getting thin, so be careful! A paint thickness gauge would be a huge benefit here, but we understand you may not want to spend a few hundred dollars on one just for this truck. If you know the rest of the paint is in good shape, then stepping up to the DAMF System can be a big help with the tougher areas. You may not need it for the whole truck, that's sort of up to you depending on how the paint responds overall - gloss gain, etc.

[1994Gen1L]

A picture of the RIDS on my hood. I have one or two spots like this on the top of my cab. Still trying to figure out how to post pic's. Sorry it isn't better, I am still experimenting with my new Nikon.


http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=56293&cat=500