products to buff finish using rustoleum specialty laquer

[pjoseph24]

I am in the process of finishing a speaker i made for my stereo.
I first skim coated the speaker using usc proflex putty and sanded it down using 400 grit
I next applied rustoleum high build primer and sanded using 400 grit once again. I will be adding about 6-8 coats of gloss black specialty laquer, followed by the same brand laquer but clear coat.
I plan on wet sanding the clear up to 2000 or 3000 grit paper
I wanted to find out what products i should use to buff the final clear coat
I will be working by hand
Thanks

[Please Wash Me Detailing]

If your Clear coating it you don't need that much base coat. the base coat is just the color and painting it 6 times isn't going to improve the color. but paint away if you'd like.
the CC is the important part. that is the part that is going to orange peel and that's what your going to sand. so put a nice layer of CC.
So with that being said I would wet sand it to get it flat then buff out the WS marks and wax. and trying to get rid of WS marks by hand sounds annoying to me. you need some power tools to do it right, imo.

[pjoseph24]

Thanks for the reply

Should i sand between the color coats?
Should i sand the final color coat before i apply the clear?

Thanks agaim

[Please Wash Me Detailing]

only for adhesion. it's not going to improve the over all reflective quality of the final top coat.
you can sand if you want, it might help it might not.
the top coat is what your going to need to concentrate on. that it the one that is going to need to be as flat as possible, to reflect the most amount of light.
<--- note my avatar. that is what your going to do to the WS marks
oh yea products, I mostly use the Detailer line so I myself would use M105,M205 and M20. You'll have an easier time finding Ultimate Compound, Scratch X and NXT. I don't use those products but all the enthusiast here love them so I can recommend them.

[Michael Stoops]

For buffing out sanding marks by hand, stick with M105/M205 but stay away from any sort of terry cloth applicator. Use a foam wax applicator pad, and ease up on the pressure when finishing the M105 application. Use just light to moderate pressure when using the M205 with a fresh pad.

[pjoseph24]

What kind of cloth should i use to remove the product?

[Please Wash Me Detailing]

Micro Fiber.

[pjoseph24]

Thank u

[pjoseph24]

any idea on why I do not have permission to post pics?

[pjoseph24]

On this test piece i used rustoleum gloss black specialty lacquer about 4 coats, followed by the same brand lacquer but clear coat about 6 coats.
I am using spray cans since this is a onetime thing.

After i sprayed the clear I wet sanded lightly with 1500 grit, and followed that with meguires ultimate compound, and then ultimate polish.

I am using old micro fiber rags to take the compound and polish off and have been using a pad to apply it, not sure what kind of pad it is. I will be ordering meguires pads and new micro fiber cloths for when i am ready to buff the actual speaker.

The test piece looks good in normal light like in a room but if I put it by the window in direct sunlight and angle it a certain way I can see a lot of scratches.

A few questions I have
1) I allowed the paint to dry about 3 weeks, even after 3 weeks I am still able to put a nail print in the paint using my thumb? Does this mean it needed more time or is lacquer that soft?
2) I do have an attachment for my drill which allows me to attach a 4” pad, would this be of any help or more harm than good?
3) Any other input would be appreciated

Here is a link to flickr for pics since I am unable to upload.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/87725282@N06/