Starting Car detailing

[ffpmme]

So I am needing to wax/polish/detail my [COLOR=#009900 !important]car[/COLOR]. I have a 00 limited metallic blue that I just bought. The finish is in not bad shape, but I would like [COLOR=#009900 !important]the car[/COLOR] to last a while so I need to protect it.

I have always used Meguires in the past. I was thinking that route but I would have to use some compound or polish then the synthetic wax. Sine I am doing this for the first time I am thinking it is going to be a long process.

1) wash (meguiars[COLOR=#009900 !important]gold[/COLOR] class)
2) clay (Mothers or Meguairs)
3) re-wash
4) polish (Meguairs Ultimate polish)
5) sealant ( Meguairs liquid wax)
6) optional wax (meguairsgold class carnauba)

Now I like the 5 step system, but I am not sure where I can use a synthetic in there since carnauba wax only lasts for about 6 -8 weeks as I have been told, and going into winter now I want the best protections I can get.


Am I missing a step?

What are the products I should be using when it comes to the protection steps? I am using gold class for the wash and figuring the regular clay kit in the store.

Also for step 7 detail/maintain, I LOVE final inspection.

So suggestions and tips on things to get are needed. Product recommendations are a must in layman's terms please!! There are so many different products available, no idea what I should/should not be looking at.

I am reading the daily driver thread and learning from that!!

Thanks

[davey g-force]

Do you have any swirls or other defects to correct? If so, the UP will probably not do much.

Your process looks okay, no need to re-wash after claying though. So, if you've got defects, you may want to look at changing Step 3 to Ultimate Compound.

[ffpmme]

Do you have any swirls or other defects to correct? If so, the UP will probably not do much.

Your process looks okay, no need to re-wash after claying though. So, if you've got defects, you may want to look at changing Step 3 to Ultimate Compound.

Some scratching near the key hole. Some swirls on the hood but nothing serious. There is a odd scratch on the passanger side though, but it is not in as bad shape as it could be.

[Murr1525]

If you want the best durability, two coats of the Ult. Wax would be best.

The FI is good for removing bird droppings, etc. But the Ultimate Quick Wax would be best to follow up future washes, or use while drying.

And yeah, as noted above, what is the condition like, feels rough, etc? Could be other things to add, remove, etc.

[Murr1525]

Well, if you want to keep it simple your first time, and not worried about swirls/scratches.. esp with reading the Daily Driver thread,

1. Wash
2. Clay
3. ColorX
4. Wax - Ult. Wax

5. Maintain - UQW after future washes

Is about as quick and easy as a full detail gets.

You could also consider using something like the T.R.I.X. product after washing, before claying, if you feel there there is any iron/tar on the surface. Good for a complete cleaning once in a while if needed/wanted.

[ffpmme]

Yep that is what I was looking for a good plan of attack.

UQW Ult, Quick Wax right

T.R.I.X. not sure what that is? I do no think there is any tar.

Shoudl I put something over the ult wax? A carnauba for the look?

Really with the FI? I thought it always gave a great look as the very last step of the detail. What should I use to give it that pop.

The daily thread is intresting, a lot of stuff in there.

[Murr1525]

Yeah, it is all just up to you about how many steps you feel like, how worried about defects, etc. Just up to you, and we can fine tune it.

You may even be able to do a quick detail now, a quick one if there is a warm week around Thanksgiving... never know. Then bigger details in the spring.

UQW = Ult. Quick Wax

TRIX is a tar/iron dust remover, such as brake dust (not like actual car rust). Just handy if you have the issue, as claying can take a bit longer to remove that stuff.

Well, we were thinking more on the protection side since you mentioned winter, so Ult. Wax there. You could do Gold Class after if wanted, but not as durable. Kind of up to you. Or perhaps the Gold Class Spray Wax after the future washes.

Looks are always kind of personal preference.

If you wanted to let the wax sit a while to cure, and then FI, that is ok. But there is no protective stuff in it, so after future washes (and with trying to get through winter as best as possible) the spray waxes would add some protection back.

[ffpmme]

Yes I think I will clay it and give it a layer of wax before the weather turns cold. I am doing it all by hand. Protection is the most important right now. Int he spring and summer I will do the polish and wax coating.

Now how do you wax the roof of a SUV??? IS it has diffuclt as it looks?

[jarred767]

Not too bad, just get a sturdy little ladder and you should be good to go.

[Murr1525]

Yes I think I will clay it and give it a layer of wax before the weather turns cold. I am doing it all by hand. Protection is the most important right now. Int he spring and summer I will do the polish and wax coating.

Wash
Clay
ColorX or Cleaner/Wax
Wax - Ult. Wax

will be pretty fast and simple for that then.

Now how do you wax the roof of a SUV??? IS it has diffuclt as it looks?

Yeah, some sort of step ladder tends to be needed. Or maybe one of the work platforms (Werner?) from Home Depot/Lowes. They are on sale once in a while, though usually sell out fast.