Is this paint saveable? I have tried using hand applied Ultimate Compound on a test spot but it just soaked it up in a minute or 2. I have a dual action polisher.. Any suggestions?
Is this paint saveable? I have tried using hand applied Ultimate Compound on a test spot but it just soaked it up in a minute or 2. I have a dual action polisher.. Any suggestions?
You might apply a coat of Ultimate Polish with the DA. This will add some oil's to the dry paint. Then, apply a coat of Ultimate Compound with your DA. Ensure it is done on a cool surface and in the shade. Only work it for a few minutes and then remove with a MF towel.
James
Did your applicator turn red at all?
'08 Subaru Legacy 2.5i SE - Newport Blue Pearl
Originally Posted by Murr1525
Yes when I tried it with hand application...I will be trying the previous tech. in a few minutes
You need to get some #7 show car glaze and really let it soak in. Lots of good write-ups on here about using it.
Yeah, I would want to try and get a product with a lot of oils on there first.
A pure polish like Deep Crystal or #7 would be good.
Or a cleaner polish like #80 or Ult. Polish.
'08 Subaru Legacy 2.5i SE - Newport Blue Pearl
This article deals with restoration of older single-stage paint:http://www.autotraderclassics.com/ca...sationId=21363
Since your Mazda is actually newer paint technology you may not benefit as much from the force-feeding of M07 into the paint as older finishes do. However, you will very likely benefit from the use of an oil-rich product to moisturize your apparently parched paint, even if you do any serious compounding after, I'd recommend trying M80, using as aggressive of a pad as you have available. If you test spot achieves the desired results, but leaves swirls behind due to the pad, you can always repeat the procedure the using the same product with less-aggressive pad.
Bill
That's some seriously dried out paint you're playing with, but since it's single stage (even though it's a more modern single stage) it's going to benefit from something a bit more oil rich - either M07 or even M80.
The pic below is a '64 Chevy wagon that was recently in our garage for a couple of TNOG sessions. If we could bring back this nasty old paint, you should be able to do the same with this Miata roof.
Michael Stoops
Internet Technical Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
(800) 854-8073 xt 3875
mstoops@meguiars.com
Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.
Please post technical questions directly to the forum rather than emailing or PM-ing me. You will get a faster response on the forum, and your question could help someone else, too!
Too bad you live so far away. I'd enjoy playing with some test spots on your Mazda, just to see if what I've learned on older single-stage paint restoration works on the later models. The only thing I've done anywhere close to your Miata was an early 90's red Toyota Celica about 10 years ago. . I used M03 by machine and it worked pretty well, but I felt something with a bit more cut would have been much quicker and more effective. I didn't even know about M80 at the time, nor did I know that M07 was so effective as a first-step product, before you did any buffing. Please keep us posted on your progress, good or not so good.
Bill
Here it is .....It looks good from 5 feet away but when 9-10 inches away I still see many small fine scratches. Most came off but about 30 percent are still there. I used 2 coats of #7 allowing it to soak in for about 20 minutes for each heavy coat. I then followed with a D.A polisher Ultimate Compound with red pad.
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